KBRS22KGBL0 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the cover to the timer, 2 nut screws. Easy. Then emptied freezer, and took off back plate with nut driver. Replaced thermostat. 2 wire plugs that were easy to complete. Left back off, let thermostat normalize temperature, then switched to defrost setting. Worked like a charm.

Removed refrigerator door. Removed 3 screws. Replaced old ice maker with new ice maker. Put in 3 screws. Ice maker working great.

Removed the slide out bin and then removed the many screws that held the inner panel to the outer insulated door panel. Removed the gasket. Melted the ice and dried the fiberglass perimeter insulation in the door panel. Placed the gasket in position on the door that was lying on the table. Replaced the inner panel screws. Put everything back together.

THERE IS A PROBLEM NOW. THE GASKET DOES NOT MAKE CONTACT ALONG THE TOP EDGE AND AIR LEAKS INTO FREEZER. SIDES AND BOTTOM ARE OK. DO NOT KNOW WHAT TO DO NEXT.

Watch video. Very helpful, followed instructions went in fairly easy. Gasket deformed, used hair dryer could not get to set straight. WAIST of TIME and MONEY. I wouldn’t recommended buying one of these twisted gaskets, buy a new fridge which is what I’m doing tomorrow.

Watched the video you posted with the part and getting the gasket to fit like he did was not as easy as he made it look. Took me a few hours and before I was done the lights went out from a power failure but I was able to finish because the drill was battery operated. I may have saved money doing it myself but not time.

Repaired as others have described - simply component part replacement. However, the fan blade shaft on the replacement motor was slightly smaller in diameter such that once the original fan blade was placed on it and the fan was running, the fan blade slid all the way down on the shaft and made contact with the motor. I had to use duct tape to increase the shaft diameter and then put the fan blade on. Running perfectly now.

This is easy. Remove lower vent in front of frig to change timer. Unplug and put new one in. . . . 10 Min. To change the thermostat remove food, take off back panel, defrost ice with hairdryer and locate thermostat (to the right above coil) remove old thermostat from connectors and replace with new. One connector needs to be spliced cause it does not match. No problem just use old connector and splice and seal with shrink tubing to prevent moisture from connection. In jersey repair guy charges you 100. 00 Bucks to just walk in the door. . . Forget that. Works fine

I had to cut a groove in the bushing to put the elec. wires through it, & then just remove the hinge, put the bushing in & replace the hing.

Water Intake valve for icemaker in Amana refrigerator
We found that the icemaker was not getting water due to a faulty intake valve. The original valve had a plastic coupling on the vinyl tube leaving the valve. The replacement valve had a quick connect coupling. Replacing the valve with the new part gave a significant leak. After discussion and viewing YouTube directions multiple times, the part was returned; and a new part was sent. It also leaked.
After searching, a video was found that dealt with the no-fail quick connect. The problem was not in the quick connect but in the tube from our refrigerator which had a spring inside the last five inches of the tube. This aided the prevention of a leak when the original plastic coupling had been installed.
SOLUTION: Removing the part of the tube with the spring using a clean cut allowed the quick connect to work preventing the leak. This needs to be mentioned in the how-to videos to save others having a problem. Also, these instructions with the part would be helpful.

The longer than usual repair times shown above were the result of the spring insert in the plastic water tube of the refrigerator. Nowhere in the how-to instructions were references made of either an insert in the tube or quick connect procedures.

We were well pleased with the support rendered by the PartSelect staff.

Used online resources to deteremine that it was either the icemaker not telling the valve to open or the valve no opening so ordered both and started with the valve (cheaper part). Turn off the water, removed the mounting screws, disconnected the plug, removed the water line (used the wet vac to suck up water while it leaked out). and disconnected the inlet line. Reconnected everything in reverse order but left unmounted until sure it worked, turned water on and waited.

unplug refrigerator,remove content [shelves] then remove panel screws,slide thermostat from tube and unplug both wire ends,match up both thermostat[old unit have male round connector] you'll need round connector.cut old unit wire off,cut new unit wire,strip both ends join with solder and cover with heat-shrink and reinstall,fridge is cooling now.

I checked your web site for similar problems. Most were the bimetal defrost thermostat. Some had defrost timer problems. Althought my bimetal thermostat was deformed by the ice I replaced both parts. The fix was easy after defrosting the evaporator. By using the spec sheets I found the locations and replaced the parts. The refrigerator is now working fine.

I wouldn't do it without taking the door off. Cut insulation board the size of the door and tape it to the frig. Lay the door on the table where you can work on it easy. You can use a small drill to take the screws out (under the seal). Put them back by hand and do not over tighten. They are easy to strip out where they won't hold the gasket tight to the door.

removed gasket with nut driver and screw gun. warmed new gasket up with hair dryer. worked seal around door. seal installed very easily. video was very helpfull. i didn't take door off. freezer works fine now with no frost or ice buildup.

Pull lowers Freezer back panel and replace heater.