KBFS22EWBL5 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

replaced the poorly designed "duck bill" drain with this P trap. Very simple repair done by accessing through the back of the refrigerator. The video on this website walked me right through the repair. It did however fail to mention that the ice has to be removed from the inside. I had to remove the drawer face and pull outs. Then the ice maker and back panel are removed. I used a heat gun and screwdriver to chip and melt the ice build up. If one had the luxury of having another refrigerator to move food in to you could just unplug the unit until the ice melts.

The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed panel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.

By sliding athin screwdriver blade down the side of the old switch the expasion prong that hold the switch in place was compressed enough to allow the switch to come out easlily. Plugged in new swithc and snapped in place. Plugged the refrigerator back in and light has worked great sense!

Ordered the part. When came in I took it out of the box and slid the two end posts into the provided holes. Lid fixed in less than 5 minutes. Part came in on the third day because I ordered on Friday afternoon.

Hardest part is access to the icemaker itself. Once I removed the freezer door (bottom drawer freezer), and got the sliding basket out, it was a 10 minute job. Make sure you start the upper screws first, the icemaker will hang there while you adjust, connect the harness, and tighten. Make sure you are ready before you close the door, it will start making ice as soon as the door is closed.

Since there were no instructions, I was a tad hesitant but dove in. I was just replacing the right end cap, not the left. Removed the involved shelf as well as the two drawers above. Undid the three screws involved and carefully removed the slide rail end cap as well as a part in the back that was attached. That was the hairy part. It took a bit of time to remove it since everything seems so brittle but I was careful and got the assembly out without breaking anything. Also had to remove the slide rail and humidity control. Nothing to removing and replacing the slide rail. You just have to put it back correctly oriented. This was easy. I just looked at the one on the left, which I hadn't removed. Most time consuming part was cleaning things that were normally inaccessible, before re-installing.

Awesome! Couldn't ask for it any better. I watched the video from Partselect multiple time and was just as easy as they said it would be. It took me longer to watch the video four times than it did for me to install it. I have a habit of 10 minute projects turning into a couple hours and this took about 10 minutes. Thanks.

I did not unplug the refrigerator. Your choice on this. Take a close look at the existing icemaker, how the wires are routed and what the water spout looks like as it relates to the icemaker. Small flat-blade screwdriver will help in unlocking tabs on the icemaker plug. Go ahead and unplug it. Of the three screws that secure the icemaker, two are impossible to see without holding a mirror in your third hand. Completely remove the bottom screw (by feel). Don't drop it, like I did. Have no idea where it went. Loosen the top two screws but do not remove. Icemaker will lift off of the top two screws when you push it up. With old icemaker out of the way, plug in the new icemaker. Be careful to properly align the water spout into the new icemaker as you hook it on the two top screws. When everything looks good, tighten the two top screws. Replace the bottom screw, if you didn't lose it. My icemaker is doing fine without a bottom screw. It should make some ice within an hour, or so. Mine did.

Unplug the electric flat plug from wall. Loosen up 3 mount support screws , Change out unit. Mount Int back onto 3 support screws . Plug in electronic flag plug , It only goes in one way since the plug as a grove on it.

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

.screw held in the center of the rail,pull it out,slide the rail up off the support brackets on the door,unplug the old one & plug in the new one,slide on, & replace the screw! That Easy

The part came the next day, very quick. The wrong size ended up in box we recieved. The part # we ordered was correct, just a mix up in the packaging process. I called and the customer service dept. had a new correct crisper pan delivered to my door two days later. Even with the mix up it was very fast and a good price compared to other sites. I would order again in the future.

We snapped the new one on correctly this time.

(1) Slide out appliance and remove power source. (2) Removed lower access cover on rear of refrigerator. (3) Disconnected plug to the condenser fan motor. (4) remove blades by pulling gently forward (5) remove mounting hardware holding the fan motor (3 screws) (6) motor is now free and new motor can be installed

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.