KFIS20XVMS10 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove back cover
Remove drip thing from top to tray in the back
Remove fan motor assembly. This is squirrely. Top bends towards you, bottom pushes in to the unit. Not fun.
CAREFULLY remove copper tube that rests on drip tray
Remove tray - there are clips in the front that get released by screwdriver
Clean up
Replace new tray
Replace copper tube
Play with fan motor assembly till it fits. It doesn't look like it's gonna work until it does. See youtube videos on this.
Replace drip thing from top to tray - I forgot this one the first time.
Replace cover.

This is a simple, but squirrely, repair. Right on the border of easy (because so few tools and steps) and A Bit Difficult because of the patience required.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

I changed the bulb but it still didn’t work. I ordered a bulb holder and replaced it and it works properly now. It was an easy repair, remove the bulb, gently pry the bulb holder out with a screwdriver and snap the new one in.

It was useful that under the description of the part in the catalog, it showed that this part was often used to repair this issue. The service was great and the delivery was fast.

The old cover was off and I just slid the replacement part that I got from you'll, it just slid in place and snapped close. Perfect fit. Thanks guys

Unscrewed all related parts and also took out drawers and glass shelf. Reused plastic slider which raps around right corner to the back wall of the unit. Make sure to remember how this plastic slider fits into the new end cap, it is a little tricky putting it back without cracking it. Suggest take a digital picture as to how it fits together before taking the slider out of the old end cap. Reinstall same way as you took it out. Good time to clean while everything is out of the bottom of the refrigerator.

I easily ordered the part. When it came in, I just shut off the water, disconnected the electricity, and followed instructions to remove shelving and drawers. Then removed the rear interior cover, removed the old water inlet valve and installed the new one. Just a couple moldex wire connections and the 3 water lines in and out. Don't know if this is still ok, but so simple a caveman could do it. Sorry Geico.

Open and remove door by loosening two screws on both sides of the door. Lift up and away the door.place the door on flat surface, grab and lift up on seal pulling out of reach. Clean track, alone seal on food before pressing in place. Check to make sure seal is set in place. Install door job done.

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

I brought you the exploded view of the crisper parts on your website and proceeded accordingly. Besides the three nuts holding the end cap to the frig interior wall the temperature adjustment linkage had to be disassembled on reassemblied on the new replacement end cap. Plastic linkage parts present the problem of breakage, so one must be careful during the disassembly process. Some other type of fasteners for the linkage assembly (screw and nut, ball and socket) would be prefereable. All and all, its a machine. Wtith exploded view, what could go wrong?

Replaced water/ice maker inlet valve from video instructions from Just Answer. The inlet tube for the water dispenser would not cede in the valve and this created a leak problem from the water dispenser connection. Called repair tech and he could not get the line to cede correctly in the inlet valve. Am going to request a replacement part. This has been very frustrating!

Looked online for instructions. I had to remove the shelves from inside the frig, then pop off part of the right inside back wall. The way the 3 water lines attached to the inlet valve was a terrible design. There are plastic little collars that need to be pushed back to release the water lines from the old valve, then when you install the new valve, you need to push them back to reattach the water lines. Once installed, one had a leak. No matter how hard I tried I couldn't get the little plastic collar to disengage. I couldn't push the line in further and I couldn't get it back out. Ended up cutting the line off at the valve just to get it out. Then had to cut out the piece that was still stuck in the valve. Tried to install it again and it leaked even more. Ended up putting the old valve back in and throwing away the $130 new inlet valve because there are no returns on electrical parts. Total waste of time and money ! ! ! Not happy to say the least.

stick the very small screw driver in the hole on the left side cover and lift up to release the keeper tab,pull out to expose the wire connecter.insert the small screw driver in the slot on the left side to release the tab while pulling apart the two connectors.tuck the wires tight to side and pull out the ice maker.I thought I was getting the whole ice maker assembly,but just got a part of it,so I had take it apart and put it back together.the hardest thing to change over was the stop lever arm that senses the level of ice in the bin.after all this,it didn't work at all.not happy around here.back to filling ice trays

Switched the drain out using the video tutorial
Fixed the problem
Have had no more drain issues

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

YouTube helped ,diagnosed problem ,found defective part removed and replaced with new part.
Is a little job on your knees