KBLS19KTMS2 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Just set the glass shelf onto frame perfect fit

Like you video

It was easy, remove clips and install new basket hanger and then just clip on the clips.

The new door just popped into place. Took seconds to complete. Fast delivery too.

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

Just plugged it in

Removed Phillips head screw on the front cover of both guides. Pull the drawer forward until it stops. Snap up the cover on each geared wheel to allow the basket to lift enough to continue removing the basket.
Swing the front of the guide rail towards the back which allows for the rear tab to come out of its hole.
Put new guide back in following reverse order.
Done!!

The installation video for condenser fan motor helped a lot to know how to disconnect the old fan motor and connect the new one. So easy just know how to remove and put back the fan gently, observe carefully where is the center and the connector position; 15 min after everything was done and the unit works well to date.

Followed the video exactly as shown from the website. I do suggest using a mirror or your phone to visualize the notch to press to drop the cover.

Unsnapped and pulled off small cover exsposing two phillips head screws. I removed larger cover and styrofoam insert fully exsposing the damper unit. i unplugged same and with a 1/2 inch wood chisel was able to release the "snaps" holding the old unit in place. Simply reverse procedure to install new unit.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Replaced shelf, very simple

Emptied and disassembled the freezer. Defrosted and dried the coils. Tested the defrost heater coil ( 50 ohms ) PRT and fan - all OK. Opened the lower back panel and cleaned the water collection tray. Vacuumed out all debris including coils underneath. Reassembled everything. Removed the old control board and installed the new board paying attention to ESD steps. Applied AC power. Programmed the new board per the video link ( nicely done ). 3 weeks later and the unit seems dry and happy. Running at lower settings with good temperature results. Suspect the 24VDC relay activating the defrost heater coil on the control board or what controls the relay not working. May pull relay for test.

Checked Video online. Had to remove the 2 snap on track/gear covers. Pry out the gear with screwdriver and the gear bearing unit. Align the flat side of the bearing unit and snap in. Position the cut teeth on the gear to match original and snap into the bearing. Insert the connecting rod into the long shaft gear and then push back into the short shaft gear. The video said to remove the drawer front but I did not and don't see that it necessary.

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!