KSSC42QVS02 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Pry open the front dispenser outer cover. Remove a screw holding ice door dispenser unit, remove old door chute, remove and place coil kind of stuff (connecting to panel) old chute to new one and reinstall.

This built-in model requires complete removal of stainless steel door "Cover". A trim piece that covers the screws on the left side of the door requires lowering the refrigerator on to the rolling legs and moving it forward for access. The tipover strap on top of the refrigerator must be removed first. One the door is slowly lowered and then pulled out you need to remove the trim piece then remove the screws on the bottom, top, and lft side. Then remove the four screws from the internal side of the dispenser. With assistance slowly pull the entire front cover from the door which gives access to the internal electronic pad. Be very careful with the door cover as the edges are razor sharp stainless steel. Remove the electronic pad (4 socket screws) and move it to provide access to the motor bracket assembly. Remove assembly (2 screws) and replace with new. This includes removing the connector plug which came off easily. The replacement assembly was a new design from the original which appeared to be much better design. This was very simple to replace. Now the hardest part is "popping" the front door cover back on the front which is a two person job. I taped the trim attachment strips to the inside of the cover (left and bottom sides had the strip) so the screw holes would line up when the cover is replaced. All four sides must slide on at the same time with a slight advantage to the side with the handle. Note: this can be dangerous because of the sharp edges and very precise fit...a blood donation was required because of an errant hand and the quick snap in popping the door in place. Once its back on, reverse the process of replacing the screws and carefully moving back in to position and raising back up to previous height. I had very little information on how to do this so I did it slowly and deliberately so it took me about two hours. The dispenser now works better then ever and I have had no frost build up....I wish I had done it 4 years ago.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

Repairing a refrigerator is inimidating to say the least. Our ice maker has broke twice in the two years that we have owned it. The first time we had a service repair faciliting come out and they replaced it for about $200. The second time I had no idea what the problem was until I came to this repair forum. I soon realized that the electronic control boards needed to be replaced. Received the part two days after ordering and it took all of about 5 minutes to unscrew the old boards, pop them out, and put in the new ones.

Love your website and the money that you saved me!!! Thanks a million!

I wasn't sure what the problem was, but the ice maker seemed simple and on-line resources suggested the control and motor assemblty was at fault. I searched the internet and Partsource had great diagrams which I could match to the part in hand. The price was right (way less than the local stores) so I ordered it.
I unplugged the unit from the power in the freezer, but unplugging the entire refrigerator works too. I pried off the white cover on the front of the ice maker, which snaps in place top and bottom. There are three screws holding the contoller (the entire front piece), remove them, pull off the controller and push the new one in place. You may have to turn the blade shaft to line up the notch on the shaft to the motor. Then reinstall the three screws, The screws go into plastic so it is easy to cross thread them, so be careful, I actually think I did with no ill effects. Snap on the cover and repower the unit. Done. Simple and quick.

power off, 3 phillips head screws on either side of freezer. unplg each board, plug new ones in completely. ( cannot mix them up, size difference) replace screws and enjoy ice cold beverages once again!!!!!!!!!

Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!

Removed the rear cardboard cover and cleaned the area around the compressor and as much of the condensor and fan area as possible. Removed the two base section securing bolts. Jacked the rear of the cabinet up enough to seperate the base from the cabinet. Removed the roller pins and removed and replaced both rollers. Lowered the cabinet back into place, replaced the base bolts and the cardboard cover. The rollers that were sent were of much better quality than the original plastic type and should last the life of the refrigerator. Be careful when moving the fridge as the original rollers may cut into or scratch the flooring.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.

removed old bracket and replaced with new one - two screws and it was done - simple

Being too lazy to pull out the refrigerator out and unplug it, I turned it off at the fuse box. Opened the freezer door and unscrewed the three screws holding the sensor. Pulled the sensor out and unscrewed the board then unpluged it and removed it. Plugged in new board, screwed it in then replaced the three screws. Repeat on the other side. The most difficult part was getting to one of three screws on each side; it almost required a third hand to hold the flap door between the ice maker and the bin, while removing said screw. I must at say that this product is definitely over engineered.

The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!