KSSC36QTS03 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

removed screws that held the ice maker in place, then removed the cover (popped off) The drive element was easy to remove, three screws and it was out. I put in the new part and reinstalled the icemaker with the three screws that hold it in place. I never call Sears for any repair. They use contract help and I have heard horror stories about those guys!

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

ridiculous how a tiny plastic broken part required a full motor assembly replacement. that being said, i went online, found this website and easily identified the part i needed to order. i was impressed when it arrived within a couple of days. removing the old motor and replacing the new was a piece of cake...and i am NOT mechanically inclined,

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

i took the cover plate off the inside of the freezer under the ice bin[two screws] then I disconnected the wiring harness, then removed the four screws to remove the motor and then put the new motor in and the ice dispenser dispensed ice. Less than 1/2 hour with only needing a nut driver,and a flashlight.

We took out the old filter and put in the new one. Ran out a few gallons of water then it was ready to use.

Remove the unit cover by unsnapping from the bottom. Remove the face plate on the switches. The ice door simply snaps off the closing mechanism. The problem I have is that the original door included a heat trace element (keeps the back of the door warm to limit condensation). The new part was simply a new seal. I clipped the leads to the het trace (turn off the fridge before you do that) and put in the new door. When the heat ids on in the house there is no problem with condensation but on warmer days its pretty bad. I cannot find a replacement part with the heating element and have contacted Whirpool. THey haven't responded as of yet.

Our unit is a built-in unit so first had to remove the decorative cover panel to expose the internal on/off switch. Turned off the circuit breaker. Disconnected the wires (simple pull-off/push-on). Removed the old switch which meant clipping the plastic tabs holding the switch in position. Inserted the new switch by simply pushing it through the opening being sure to have it in the same alignment ('off' to the back of the unit.) Reconnected the wires making sure to have a white ground wires on the left and the black 'hot' wires on the right. Turned the circuit breaker back on. Turned the switch on. Now it runs.

Unscrew the three phillips screws holding the flipper and electric eye unit, pull it out a bit to unplug the connector. Take the assembly over to a flat surface, and use pliers and or crew driver to pry/pull off the press-on retainer on the hinge pin. Pull out hinge pin, remove the broken flipper. Put new flipper in place making sure spring is behind the flipper (holding it open). Reinsert hinge pin, and then reuse the press-on retainer to hold in in place. Then take the repaired assembly back to the freezer, re-plug the plug, and then reinstall the unit using the 3 phillips screws. Easy Peasy.

Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!

I unplugged the refrigerator
Opened the freezer door
Opened the ice maker door so that I could easily get to the emitter and receiver
I used a phillips head screw driver to remove 3 screws from the emitter plate and 3 screws from the receiver plate
I unplugged the faulty circuit boards--this took some tugging
I firmly plugged in the new circuit boards and replaced the screws
I waited about 30 minutes and the ice maker began making ice again

After receiving the replacement emitter and receiver boards from PartSelect.com, I following the troubleshooting paperwork that came with my order to ensure the parts I ordered where the problem. After which, it was very straight forward: unplug the frig, unscrew the 3 screws on the covers for each board, unplug the push-pin connection, remove the board screw, set the new board in, and plug back into the connection. It took approximately 20min.

took cover off, installed bulb.
lost the owners manual,
part select's schematics were very helpful
thanks

Ordered the parts from Parts Select and had them within two days (lightning fast shipment--and with just standard shipping). Disconnected the power to refrigerator, removed three screws from each cover panel, pulled the panels loose from the freezer wall, disconnected the wiring harness on each, removed the screws holding the two boards, replaced the boards with the new ones, attached boards to cover panel with screw, reconnected wiring harnesses, replaced the three screws on each side, restored power, and made ice! Whole job took about 15 minutes.

This built-in model requires complete removal of stainless steel door "Cover". A trim piece that covers the screws on the left side of the door requires lowering the refrigerator on to the rolling legs and moving it forward for access. The tipover strap on top of the refrigerator must be removed first. One the door is slowly lowered and then pulled out you need to remove the trim piece then remove the screws on the bottom, top, and lft side. Then remove the four screws from the internal side of the dispenser. With assistance slowly pull the entire front cover from the door which gives access to the internal electronic pad. Be very careful with the door cover as the edges are razor sharp stainless steel. Remove the electronic pad (4 socket screws) and move it to provide access to the motor bracket assembly. Remove assembly (2 screws) and replace with new. This includes removing the connector plug which came off easily. The replacement assembly was a new design from the original which appeared to be much better design. This was very simple to replace. Now the hardest part is "popping" the front door cover back on the front which is a two person job. I taped the trim attachment strips to the inside of the cover (left and bottom sides had the strip) so the screw holes would line up when the cover is replaced. All four sides must slide on at the same time with a slight advantage to the side with the handle. Note: this can be dangerous because of the sharp edges and very precise fit...a blood donation was required because of an errant hand and the quick snap in popping the door in place. Once its back on, reverse the process of replacing the screws and carefully moving back in to position and raising back up to previous height. I had very little information on how to do this so I did it slowly and deliberately so it took me about two hours. The dispenser now works better then ever and I have had no frost build up....I wish I had done it 4 years ago.