KSRJ25FXWH03 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

power off, 3 phillips head screws on either side of freezer. unplg each board, plug new ones in completely. ( cannot mix them up, size difference) replace screws and enjoy ice cold beverages once again!!!!!!!!!

Contacted sears home service to perform repair. Quote for repair was $307. 43. ( $196. 90 For labor ,$102. 58 For part) plus $75. 00 For service call. Based on the charge, I refused the repair and ordered the appropriate part from "part select" (733947) (wpl 8201515) motor module for a cost of $81. 84. To my surprise, the part arrived the next day and in 15 minutes the icemaker was in a position to make ice, and has been producing ice ever since. To perform the module replacement, I had to remove one screw with a nutdriver, pull the icemaker out, disconnect a wire harness, replace the module and do the reverse procedure to complete the installation. I saved a total of $225. 59 By doing this repair myself. A lesson learned. . . . . I will always investigate doing a repair myself with the help from the people at part select. Very professional and they sent the correct part the first time.

Not being a professional repair tech, I looked at this sites provided schematics of the ice-maker. I assumed due to the problem I had which parts to order. the parts arrived within 3 days and after I took the icemaker apart I quickly realized I ordered the wrong parts. I called and asked what to do. since I did not open the packaging for the "wrong" parts I was able to make a return. I then called back because I discoverd the part I really needed wasn't shown in the sketch. I was told that I needed to order a new motor and it would have the part I needed. I ordered the part and within 3 days it arrived. Once I had the new part I was able to quickly install. Now I have a icemaker that works better than new since ,now it does not seem to jam either.

To make the repair:
First remove the 1/4" nut head screw on the under side of the ice maker.
Remove the shroud covering the electrical connection.
Slide out the maker and depress the locking clip.
Disconect the electrical wires.
Pull off the motor cover (no screws).
Remove the three philips head screws from the motor housing. Gently remove the motor.
Next loosen the screws and pull the "black motor-mounting harness" untill enough clearance to remove the ejector arm and deflector tray. The new kit will have a new ejector arm and deflector tray.
Insallation is the reverse.
The schematics were very helpfull.
It was very simple and I saved a $150 service fee to have someone else do it for me.
PS. When I called I was able to speak to real live Americans who were able to help me, were pleasant, polite, and professional, AND they did not treat me like I was stupid because I am not a professional repair man. I will definately use this service again. and recommend to all my DIY friends!!

After lots of internet exploring and diagnosis, the icemaker comes right out, and with three screws out and in, the job is all but done. Don't pay anyone for this repair!!!!!

removed old bracket and replaced with new one - two screws and it was done - simple

Being too lazy to pull out the refrigerator out and unplug it, I turned it off at the fuse box. Opened the freezer door and unscrewed the three screws holding the sensor. Pulled the sensor out and unscrewed the board then unpluged it and removed it. Plugged in new board, screwed it in then replaced the three screws. Repeat on the other side. The most difficult part was getting to one of three screws on each side; it almost required a third hand to hold the flap door between the ice maker and the bin, while removing said screw. I must at say that this product is definitely over engineered.

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

I removed the cardboard back then using a nut driver removed the three mounting screws, removed the old fan/motor and installed the new one, installing the three screws and replacing the cardboard cover.

My big problem was getting the right parts. Don't ever order refrigerator parts using the refrigerator model number. I did and got the wrong part, sent it back and talked to the parts lady and ordered again describing the error, the needed parts shape etc and she sent me the exact part I had sent back. I sent it back and removed the fan motor to get the part number, called and ordered by number and got the right one. Hallelujah!

Checked the water line from the wall to the supply port of the inlet valve and it was suppling water but no water beyond the water inlet valve, So I ordered a new inlet valve and installed, and it fixed the problem. Inlet valve supplies water to the ice maker and water dispenser filter housing. Partselect videos and you tube installation videos very helpful. Partselect troubleshooting guide also very helpful. Great company

Shut off water supply. Unplug refrigerator. Removed lower back cardboard panel. Removed two screws holding inlet valve bracket to side frame. Pulled valve out far enough to gain access to water lines and electrical connectors. Used 9mm open end wrench to press in collars to remove water lines from inlet valve. Used small container to catch water dripping from lines. Removed defective valve and replaced with new one by first pushing water lines into respective openings, make sure they are fully seated. Reconnected electric wires. Installed inlet valve on side frame. Replaced back panel. Plugged in power cord. Opened water supply. Flushed about 2 gals of water through system. Note: water may not flow immediately due to air in water lines.

I removed the cap from the filter pushed a lever and removed fliter. I replaced the old filter, removed the caps on the new one and slid it into channel after replacing the outer cap. I removed water from the spigot for 4 mins. and it was ready to go. I pushed the reset button to get the green light to come on.

Just put the new one in.

I got model number off my unit and order the part. That was after trying a lot of different filters first. I did a rush order so I got it in 2 days. Pulled the unit out to shut the water off. Then took the back off so I could take the 2 screws that hold the water value . That way I wouldn't have to go back and forth. Now I went to the front. I already had had the vent cover at the bottom of the unit off. I had a head lap on so to make it easier to see under the unit. Then I use the nut driver or you can use 1/4 inch drive ratchet with sockets. To take the 2 screws out that hold the filter housing. Then lift the spring wire that is on the left side of the release botton. Then push the wire up out of the way. Reach back and pull the water value forward so you have slack in the water lines. Now you can pull the fliter housing out to you. Now release the 2 water lines by pushing down on the rings around the water lines and hold while you pull the water lines out. Now the old water filter housing is free you can set it to the side. I inspected the new filter housing for any deformities and cracks before I started installing. Now I hooked the water lines up by pushing them into the right size spring ring hole. Once lines was all the way in I pulled back on the water lines to make sure they were locked in place. Then I put a new water filter in and turned the water on to make sure of no leaks. Then I put everything back together in the reverse order I took it apart. Then I check the spicket to make sure everything was working right. After that I was able to push the refrigerator back in and then wipe everything up and I was done.

Once the screws were removed from the bottom of the ice maker, the unit had to be removed forcefully because of the limited clearance and the support tray under it. The next difficulty was to disconnect the old wiring harness so that the new unit could be installed. Having completed this, the install was fairly easy and the job was completed successfully. By changing the supply valve, filter and ice maker all the problems were removed and the unit is working properly.

change light bulbs