KSCS23FVBL03 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

We popped out the new filter and replaced the cap with a twist. It was so easy. It is important to vaccum the front of the refrigerator for accumulating dust.

Replacing this part was a breeze. But I could not believe how fast the part arrived at my doorstep - was expecting it to arrive in 3 days but it arrived in 2. And the part exactly the right one - the pictures on the sight helped a great deal in correctly identifying it.

I would absolutely order from here again and recommend it to friends.

On this model, access is very easy. The tray slides forward, and then lifting up with a little force at the back of it clears a stop, allowing it to slide out. This exposes two Philips/sq2 screws that hold the faceplate in place. The faceplate swings out and is lifted off the top edge. Disconnect the wire harness and set aside. Trace the cable from the door motor to the control board. Disconnect the cable and fish up behind the facing material. Remove screws holding the dispenser door mechanism. On that assembly, remove the screws holding the motor to the mechanism. Replace the motor. Put the mechanism back in place engaging the metal actuator arm in the door. Fish the cable down to the control board and plug in. Plug the faceplate wiring harness back in, and reinstall the faceplate. Secure with two screws and replace the tray. Done.

Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,

Simply cut the water tube on both sides of connector and push in the new one.

Freezer worked great, refrigerator stopped getting cold and lots of ice formed around the condenser on the bottom of the refrigerator.
First I had a serious ice issue, ice build up around the bottom of the refrigerator and all through the cold air vents, condenser and cooling fan. I unplugged of the fridg and let defrost over night. I also took all the cold air vents out and cleaned them.
Then I followed the switch install video very simple switch install. Now the Refrigerator works Great nice and cold.

Unplug power to refridg/freezer. Removed the screw in rt. rear bottom of ice maker to remove. After removing slightly, unplug pigtail. Remove ice maker completely. Remove large square cover from left side to expose motor. Remove screws to remove motor. Replce with new. Replace ice maker to freezer, plug pigtail back in, put screw back in rt rear bottom, plug refridg/freezer back into power source. Ice was making in about 2 1/2 hours.

The cap will only fit on one way. Align with tabs on filter, twist on. Press the filter into place and press to seat. Locks into place.

I pulled off the panel covering the part in the freezer cut and stripped the wires. Used crimper and connectors put the new part on put the wires band panel back on and plugged the refrigerator back in. Everything works just fine now.

Piece of cake. It took me longer to remove the food from the freezer, remove shelves and back panel than to do the repair. I heard the fan making some noises so I replaced both the fan and defrost thermostat. I used the instructions submitted by a another customer. My 20+ year old fridge is like new now.

We emptied out both sides, refrigerator and freezer, and followed the instructions in your video. We turned it off and disconnected the power. We took off the freezer door first. It made it much easier to get the shelves out and reach way back into the freezer. We removed the light and cover, then the ice auger motor. The back panel was easy to lift and remove. The wire assembly was a little hard to understand at first, but when we figured it out it was easy to remove and replace the bimetal defrost thermostat. We did check the video when we had the wire harness out, to make sure we got it right. We reassembled the freezer's inside parts and reattached the door. Before we turned the power back on, we scrubbed down the entire refrigerator. When we turned the power back on, the refrigerator and freezer were operating quietly - no sparks or explosions or shorting out - hooray! And the problems were solved.
The most important resource is your video. It looked like something we could do, and then ordered the parts. Our repair took a long time because we checked the video so many times. Thank you so much for the great information and the excellent parts. We could not have done it without you.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

this is the 2006 model.remove the bottom tray to access the two screws that hold the cover on then remove the screws.the cover will slide out but is kinda tight cause of the door handle but will come out without removing the handle.then open the door and turn off the ice maker and remove the ice bin.there are two bolts to remove with a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the plastic piece. you can then remove a metal piece and spring that sits on the drive shaft. i used a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the drive shaft cause my fingers were too big to fit in the hole.close the door and go back to the panel.there is a cardboard protector that you lift up to expose the motor.the motor sits on a plastic motor mount with two bolts you can remove with a 1/4 inch nut driver. it slides out and you can unplug the wire clip. remove the motor. remove the four bolts that hold the motor to the motor mount then mount the new motorthen put it all back together. it might be a good idea to unplug the fridge before this process. i didnt and when i tested the the ice and water,the water would not shut off. i had to open the door to get the water to shut off then push and hold the reset button to get it to work properly.

First I had to figure out how to get the old unit out so I could work on it. The three screws that others wrote about were the ones that hold the motor in place. There are 3 screws holding the ice maker in the frame, along with one screw covering the electrical connection. The electrical connection was difficult to unplug because the locking tab was on the back side of the connection and with no room to work in the freezer it didn't become apparent until several frustrating minutes went by. There were no instructions provided, the picture on the ordering page showed the complete ice maker, and for $80 you get a printed circuit board with a small round item which must be the motor/timer control. The two plastic parts for moving the ice from the ice maker were included but not replaced because I didn't notice them until I had finished replacing the ice maker back in the freezer and wasn't going to start over again.
Once installed, there wasn't any noise, even of water flowing like the old one, could not tell if the unit was working or not. In the morning there was new ice in the bin indicating the repair had been successful. This is like anything else, if you have done it before it is a 5 minuter job but when you have to look at it and try to figure it out it takes a bit longer. All in all, it was simple enough, I was expecting a complete ice maker unit like was in the picture when ordered but only the motor module was actually needed.
We have another refrigerator/freezer that has an icemaker that is over 20 years old and has never been repaired, it is a Sears model though, probably made by Whirlpool or someone else.