KSC23C8EYW00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

went on this website to fine info ALWAYS GO TO TYE OF APP. FIRST THEN TYPE IN MODEL NUMBER...THAT WAY YOUR GOING TO GET THE INFO ONLY TO YOUR APP. then search under symptom .." DO LOTS OF READING HERE ",CLICK ON COSTUMER REPAIRS thats were i found additional info on my problem..now on to the fix.. it stands to reason that on my appy. anyways that if the to parts plug into each other then you should think smart and get both avoid the coming "i told you so, you should have ordered the other part to" didnt cost that much extra... word of advice here .. i have big hands so when " they say" to plug both together then plug into the compressor...DONT!!!! plug the start device in first then plug in capacitor... almost forgot!!!! make sure ALL ELECTRICAL PLUGS AND WIRES ARE CLEAN-NOT BURNT ECT... used a can of electric contact cleaner-NOT ON THE NEW PARTS JUST THE COMPRESSOR AND THE WIRE THAT PLUGS INTO THE CAPAC. .. its just that simple... you will have to let the app. run for at least 24-36 hrs. to get cool enough and stabilize. after that we had to readjust the temp settings a little bit no bigee enjoy!!!!!

ordered new filter, removed old filter from fridge, and installed new one

1. Removed 2 screws on top hing.
2. Easily lifted door and place on table.
3. Removed set screw for door cam.
4. Removed stop bracket.
5. Reversed steps 4 thru 1.

When tightening top 2 screws, make sure door gap is consistent and top of frig door aligns with the top of the freezer door.

NOTE: The lady at PartSelect who helped me with my order was great. Took the time to verify my parts. Prior to this I had bought the part from a nearby appliance parts store. They sold me the wrong part, even though I showed them a picture of my model number plate b4 ordering. In the future, I will always go to PartSelect for my appliance part purchases.

I pulled off the panel covering the part in the freezer cut and stripped the wires. Used crimper and connectors put the new part on put the wires band panel back on and plugged the refrigerator back in. Everything works just fine now.

Prior to ordering I removed freezer panel and checked for ice build up and fan functionality. Then removed rear panel cleaned lint from everything pulled front panel vacuumed out the condenser. Plugged back in and all seems to work with the exception of compressor. I have a little experience so googled in model number and your site popped up. I looked up part and the site gave me a percentage loved that. I ordered wish I would have rushed shipping as took about 10 days. Installed in less than 30 minutes and all runs great ??

Unplug power to refridg/freezer. Removed the screw in rt. rear bottom of ice maker to remove. After removing slightly, unplug pigtail. Remove ice maker completely. Remove large square cover from left side to expose motor. Remove screws to remove motor. Replce with new. Replace ice maker to freezer, plug pigtail back in, put screw back in rt rear bottom, plug refridg/freezer back into power source. Ice was making in about 2 1/2 hours.

Unhooked water line from house to fridge then unbolted valve from fridge body then removed plastic water line from fridge to valve by pushing in on pex release tab then reversed process with new valve. Works like a charm. No more leakage. Wood floor is dry and Happy!

Piece of cake. It took me longer to remove the food from the freezer, remove shelves and back panel than to do the repair. I heard the fan making some noises so I replaced both the fan and defrost thermostat. I used the instructions submitted by a another customer. My 20+ year old fridge is like new now.

Unplug, then on the freezer side, remove the drawers, then remove the screws holding the sheet metal cover, remove the rails (for the drawer) that interfere with removing the sheet metal cover. pull the wires off the motor. There is a big plastic piece that holds a small plastic piece that holds the motor. Remove the plastic piece that holds the motor/fan (you might be able to swap the motor by removing the little plastic piece that holds the motor, or you can remove the bigger piece and then remove the small piece that holds the motor). Pull the fan blade off (to reuse), swap the motor. NOTE - the new motor wire terminals may be on the opposite side of the motor vs. the old motor - that is not a problem - there is plenty of room for the wires. After the motor is installed put the fan blade back on, reinstall the removed plastic pieces in the back of the refrigerator. Now, I'd suggest a quick test. Make sure the new motor works and the fan blows before you button it up. Once you know it works, power it off, and put the sheet metal cover back on, reinstall the basket brackets, put the baskets back in place, close the door, and turn it back on.

Freezer worked great, refrigerator stopped getting cold and lots of ice formed around the condenser on the bottom of the refrigerator.
First I had a serious ice issue, ice build up around the bottom of the refrigerator and all through the cold air vents, condenser and cooling fan. I unplugged of the fridg and let defrost over night. I also took all the cold air vents out and cleaned them.
Then I followed the switch install video very simple switch install. Now the Refrigerator works Great nice and cold.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Took it out of the box. Emptied the ice out of the broken bin. Slid the new one in and all done.

We emptied out both sides, refrigerator and freezer, and followed the instructions in your video. We turned it off and disconnected the power. We took off the freezer door first. It made it much easier to get the shelves out and reach way back into the freezer. We removed the light and cover, then the ice auger motor. The back panel was easy to lift and remove. The wire assembly was a little hard to understand at first, but when we figured it out it was easy to remove and replace the bimetal defrost thermostat. We did check the video when we had the wire harness out, to make sure we got it right. We reassembled the freezer's inside parts and reattached the door. Before we turned the power back on, we scrubbed down the entire refrigerator. When we turned the power back on, the refrigerator and freezer were operating quietly - no sparks or explosions or shorting out - hooray! And the problems were solved.
The most important resource is your video. It looked like something we could do, and then ordered the parts. Our repair took a long time because we checked the video so many times. Thank you so much for the great information and the excellent parts. We could not have done it without you.

The Video on U tube was helpful. I have a side by side model and it was difficult to work in such tight quarters to attach the new part . I found that by removing the cable assembly it was much easier to attach (cut and crimp) the new part on the outside , then reinsert the assembly. The new part resolved my problem. Don't panic when you try and remove the cable assembly. Hope this is helpful.