KSRJ25FXMS02 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Emiter blinking red; ice maker stopped working. Called appliance repair, said electronic control boards needed to be replaced. Quoted me $275, including parts. Ordered part at partselect.com, installed in 15 min and ice maker started producing ice. Also discovered on other online forums that this part is a common failure on these model refrigerators. Very easy to swap out, plug & play. Make sure to unplug appliance before performing repair due to shock risk.

Well I changed out the optical boards which I thought were the problem and the ice maker is still not making any ice. I can see the ice makers fingers rotating but there is no water entering through the tube. I jumped the water manifold in the back and water comes out but I cant figure out what is not telling it to run water and fill the ice tray. Any ideas would be appreciated I guess i'll replace the ice maker next. Thanks in advance.

changed the starter connected to the compressor

First I installed a defrost timer, (the old timer had burnt out contacts in it) It seemed to work for a few days, then went back to not comng out of defrost cycle, I then installed a defrost thermostat. It seems to be working better than before. I found out that maybe I wasn't running it cold enough. So I turned it up colder. Now it works ok for 2 - 3 days, then I check the Temp in the freezer and its up to 6o. So I manually reset the timer and it works for 2 - 3 days. Don't know what to do now to fix it.

Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.

followed the instructions on the box

pull the fridge out away from the wall and hope you have a long flex water supply hose.remove cardboard cover,oh yea unplug fridge first.unplug wire from the relay.flip the wire retainer off the relay and pry it away from the compressor.pull the 2 prong capacitor off and then reverse the steps to reasemble. skip the middle man at the local appliance shop.i waited 2 weeks for him to get the part and gave up.your reg shipping got it here in 2 days.

Removed the three motor screws pulled off old motor put new motor in place replaced screws and re-installed. It was producing ice three hours later. I originally tried to obtian these parts directly from Whirlpool in which twice they shipped me the wrong parts. Finally gave up on them and entered the whilrpool part number which crossreferenced to new part number which was correct the first try. Thank you!

Removed front plastic grill and screws holding the filter in place. Also removed lower back cardboard panel to access water lines. Video on this website told me how to remove water lines from filter, you must depress a collar around the water line while pulling out the water line. Then install the new Water Filter Housing and water lines. The only problems I had was the tight space to work in and one of the water lines was leaking, but pushing the water line in further solved the problem.

Approximately:

1. Unplugged refrigerator.
2. Emptied Freezer.
3. Removed Ice Maker.
4. Waited a few hours for ice to melt around back panel & nuts.
5. Removed back panel and the cover over fan and fan motor.
6. Waited many more hours for ice to thaw over fins, wiring, etc.
7. Easily replaced the bi-mental defrost thermostat.
8. Replaced panel, fan cover, ice maker.
9. Plugged in refrigerator and waited a bit.

This worked! Yahoo.

p.s. I am a 65+ year old mechanically minded woman. :-)

Removing the panels inside the freezer section was the most difficult ,because it is narrow,hard to fit your body inside compartment, in order to cut wires and to splice Bi-metal Defrost Thermostat wires (2 ) Watch the videos on the web site so you know where to start. First time I ever "repaired " a large appliance, saved me over $ 600.00 (that's what the people I bought the Refrigerator from wanted to charge me.) My parts cost 65.00 !!!!! My younger brother turned me onto the web site... , I'll be returning to the site and telling my friends about it. It's a total "rip off" what service organizations charge the general public these days from Car Dealer ships to the stores we purchase our appliances from. !!! Glad I still have my health and faculties to repair the essentials we have around our homes. !!!!

We took out the old filter and put in the new one. Ran out a few gallons of water then it was ready to use.

First off you need to shut off the water supply valve that goes to the icemaker. Next pull the refrigerator from the wall , thats the fun part. I did not unplug my refrigerator when I did this . You can to be extra safe. At the bottom on the back side remove the cardboard cover on the bottom like four or five screws and set this aside. The water valve is on the bottom on the right side. There are 3 water lines attached to it. Having a towel handy might be helpfull. 1 line supplys the water, 1 is for the water dispenser and 1 is for the ice maker. These are push in connections no wrench needed. Remove the 2 screws that attach water valve to frame. Arrange it to make removing the 2 wire connections and water lines easier to remove. Wire connections just pull off. Mark them as to what valve they go to. Next remove the water lines. you need to remove a plastic lock that insures that the water lines do not pop off, very simple. Next push down on the nylon connector push down on the top of connector and pull on the plastic water line at the same time and it will come out. Do this to all 3 water lines. Remove old water valve and install new one in the reverse order. The water lines just push in no need to mess with connector when line is in reinsert the plastic lock. Reconnect the power connections. Align the water valve bracket with screw holes in frame and reattach the 2 screws holding it in place. Now would be a good time to turn on the water and check for leaks. You can check water dipenser but ice maker has a mind of its own. If all is good reinstall the cardboard cover on the back bottom and push refrigerator back where it was. Make sure the water line is not kinked. Aftre a couple of hours the ice maker should start making ice.

took cover off, installed bulb.
lost the owners manual,
part select's schematics were very helpful
thanks

Ordered the parts from Parts Select and had them within two days (lightning fast shipment--and with just standard shipping). Disconnected the power to refrigerator, removed three screws from each cover panel, pulled the panels loose from the freezer wall, disconnected the wiring harness on each, removed the screws holding the two boards, replaced the boards with the new ones, attached boards to cover panel with screw, reconnected wiring harnesses, replaced the three screws on each side, restored power, and made ice! Whole job took about 15 minutes.