KSRJ25FXBL00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

The cap will only fit on one way. Align with tabs on filter, twist on. Press the filter into place and press to seat. Locks into place.

Followed the directions from the video and almost everything went great. The toughest part of the repair was removing the push button cap from the old housing.

removed 8 screws 3 hose connections and done....hardest thing was getting up from the floor!!!

Freezer worked great, refrigerator stopped getting cold and lots of ice formed around the condenser on the bottom of the refrigerator.
First I had a serious ice issue, ice build up around the bottom of the refrigerator and all through the cold air vents, condenser and cooling fan. I unplugged of the fridg and let defrost over night. I also took all the cold air vents out and cleaned them.
Then I followed the switch install video very simple switch install. Now the Refrigerator works Great nice and cold.

I carefully matched the model number to replacement part cross-reference and ordered the Part.
You-tube instructions were accurate except for the plug wire that prevented removal of the auger motor. It took significant maneuvering to drop the old motor. The new motor fit in better but the male plug configuration did not match the female plug from the refrigerator.

A lot of wasted effort and time as well as expense! What good is matching replacement parts when the replacement is not correct?

Used 2 Stainless bushings and a short screw to attach to side of door.

Changed inlet valve

Replacement of parts was simple. But there are three main reasons that ice maker quits: door sensors stop working; ice maker, or it control system, stop working, or the coil controlling when water is released into the ice maker stops working. It was easy to replace the door senors; repairman replaced the ice maker and control board, which is located in one end of ice maker, but it ended up being the coil or simply a frozen water outlet into the ice maker that stopped the system from from working. The first thing you should do is to make sure that the water outlet into the icemaker is not frozen - use a hair dryer to melt frozen ice in the outlet - don't melt the plastic outlet with high heat. If the system still does not work go to this: look at red sensor on door to the the right. If it blinks twice in a couple of second with a time out and then repeats over and over, close the door on the receiving sensor on the left hand side of the casing and if the red light comes on steady then the sensor is working properly. So, now you have the coil that turns the water on and off or the water maker itself that can be bad. It will be one of these that are at fault, but not both. Call a repairman.

Easy repair, unplug the fridge and then remove the 3 screws on each side of the freezer holding the emitter and receiver. Swap the boards and re-install. Takes less than 10 minutes.

PartSelect found and shipped the part quickly and with low postage directly to my door. I didn't have to worry about not being at home to accept the part and having to make a trip to the post office with a yellow slip.

First empty the shelves on the refrig. door. Then removed the upper hing cover and removed the three screws holding the hinge to the body of the refrigerator. Lifted the door off the bottom hinge and placed it clear of the unit.
Inspected the bottom hinge and cleaned off the screw holding the closing cam, then with a nutdriver removed the screw holding the cam and removed the cam from the hinge. Installed a new cam closer, secured the cam with a screw. Hanged the door back on the lower hinge and re-installed the upper hinge. Job Complete!

I took out the old socket by moving a clip. Reattached the electrical wires, clicked in the socket and that was it.

First I had to figure out how to get the old unit out so I could work on it. The three screws that others wrote about were the ones that hold the motor in place. There are 3 screws holding the ice maker in the frame, along with one screw covering the electrical connection. The electrical connection was difficult to unplug because the locking tab was on the back side of the connection and with no room to work in the freezer it didn't become apparent until several frustrating minutes went by. There were no instructions provided, the picture on the ordering page showed the complete ice maker, and for $80 you get a printed circuit board with a small round item which must be the motor/timer control. The two plastic parts for moving the ice from the ice maker were included but not replaced because I didn't notice them until I had finished replacing the ice maker back in the freezer and wasn't going to start over again.
Once installed, there wasn't any noise, even of water flowing like the old one, could not tell if the unit was working or not. In the morning there was new ice in the bin indicating the repair had been successful. This is like anything else, if you have done it before it is a 5 minuter job but when you have to look at it and try to figure it out it takes a bit longer. All in all, it was simple enough, I was expecting a complete ice maker unit like was in the picture when ordered but only the motor module was actually needed.
We have another refrigerator/freezer that has an icemaker that is over 20 years old and has never been repaired, it is a Sears model though, probably made by Whirlpool or someone else.

removed the LED covers on both sides of the freezer, unplugged each circuit board, plugged in both circuits, replaced the LED covers, job complete, making ice

I followed the video on this site. It was a pretty easy repair. Unplugged the fridge and turned off the water. Took off the bottom front panel. Used a nutdriver to remove the nuts holding the old filter housing in place. Unhooked the metal hook shown in the video. Disconnected the water from the old housing and removed it. The water line was a little short but I was able to reach in far enough to disconnect it without having to disconnect the line from the back of the fridge. Then I just reconnected everything to the new filter housing and installed a filter. Once I turned the water back on and plugged the fridge back in, it had better pressure than it ever has. Just watch the video and follow along.