KBLS19KTMS1 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Chose these parts based on suggestion on this website, as well as other sites. They did not correct the problem. Shipping was also quite slow.

in stalled new circuit board an thermostat an was fixed

The video on the part select website with the Canadian gentleman was absolutely the best! My wife and I watched it and was able to accomplish the replacement with no surprises or issues. One tip that we could add is that the orientation of the temperature sensor was not specified in the video, but the slot seemed to work better for one orientation versus another. It has been a couple weeks since the repair and the refrigerator is working like it did when we first purchased it.

Remove light lens by pushing straight back (needs some oomph, but not too much). Remove control housing by prying spring clips in back of housing with thin screwdriver or knife. Remove old control board by releasing plastic clips on both sections and removing 2 wiring plugs. Be careful snapping new control board in ; the alignment of the 4 switches and the 2 readouts is critical - easy to hang up a switch. Snap the control housing back into place, making sure that it is all the way in. Position the light lens so that it is lined up and about 1/2" back and then slide it forward (toward you) into place. The instruction sheet calls the refrigerator section the "fresh food" section. There are 2 light switches, one for each door. Both have to held down to get light to go out and enter programming mode. Easiest to close the right door, then push left door switch and quickly push the freezer DOWN button 3 times. Follow the instructions to set the program on the display and then push AND HOLD the freezer DOWN button until the display starts flashing. Release the freezer DOWN button, close the doors, open the doors to check. Display will indicate two 4s. (that was what mine indicated). Done.

I replaced the Control Board...
the two boards need to be installed first . than plug in the connectors
(refrigerator was unplugged of course.!) i plugged in the connectors first. and had to disconnect them. install the boards first. than plug in the electrical connectors.. strange for a day or two it still did not work properly and than one day. it started working ok 7 on the freezer and 3 on the refrigerator. I do not know why..

DEFROSTED REFRIGERATOR COILS, BUT DIDN'T REPLACE THE GROMMET.

Super simple following the instruction video you posted. Thanks!

Unplugged refrigerator,cleaned out freezer.Removed shelves in freezer compartment(that took some figuring to unlock sliding sheves)Our freezer is on the bottom.Removed four screws from back cover to expose fan,removed screws and attached wires.Carefully opened plastic clips after pulling fan off shaft.Replaced old motor after reattaching rubber seals.Closed clips to hold motor and placed fan back on shaft.Reattach wires and screws. Put cover back and replaced shelves.Plugged in refrigerator and wallah refrigerator part was cold again!

Unplugged fridge
Pulled light cover off
Used screwdrivers to press in on tabs holding control board cover.
Unplug wiring harnesses.
Snapped board in two.
Install in cover
Reattach wires
Done

I followed the video provided by Part Select. I also let the refrigerator stay unplugged overnight with all the doors open. This p-trap kit has fixed the leaks out of the front of the refrigerator. There is no ice build-up in the freezer. Perfect!

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

The fridge would occasionally run warm, requiring me to turn it off and defrost the evap coils in the freezer. I found an online video that demonstrated the entire process of replacing the control board. The fridge model in the video was different than mine, so it took some time to figure out how to remove the panel. Once that was done, the rest was easy. The only tool required was a flat-head screwdriver that was used to push in the tabs holding the panel in place. The circuit board took more effort to split in two than I had realized, and I had to be careful not to bend any of the components on its surface. The whole process took less than 30 minutes, and the fridge is working properly now..

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

Remove existing bin by lifting up and out of refrigerator door. IInstall new bin by sliding into the door and pressing down onto the "clips" or attachments in the door. Done.

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!