KBFS20EVMS4 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Simply move the appliance for access to the back side. Removed the lower metal access panel, locate the compressor ( black round object ) parts are on the left bottom of the compressor. Simply unplug the parts, and replace with new parts.The hard part was, getting my 72 year old body in position to do the job. As far as getting the right part, a young lady in Nova Scoita is the one to ask for help !! Ordered parts one day, and they were in my hands the next morning!!

Repair was easy and producing ice within five hours.

This is the 2nd part I have bought for this refrigerator from Part Select. I wish the parts came with some kind of instruction. I had to re-use parts from the original equipment each time. After studying the replacement part I was able to figure out what I needed to do, but it would have been nice to have a little more information. There were 3 pieces which I needed to remove from the damaged piece and add to the replacement part. I would gladly pay more for a complete replacement part.

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!

Turn off water supply too ice maker and unplug the fridge power. using a nut driver remove one bottom screw from the bottom, near the front. The other two from the side atop the ice mold. (loosen screws and ice maker will lift up and off.)
I set the ice maker on the counter, snapped of the front cover by hand. using a phillips driver, remove two screws near the bottom corners.(they go through the circuit board into the ice mold)
circuit board in one hand, other end of ice mold in the other, slowly pull apart about 1 inch. remove the silver colored "on, off" bar at the end by snapping the retainer out of the ice mold. (the silver bar stays with the circuit board end)
Watch how the ice guide(white fingers stationary on side of ice mold) hooks too the ice mold on each end. swap ice guide to new ice mold, insert three guide pins on end into holes on the circuit board, while holding ice guide onto ice mold, watch rotation bar while inserting into motor.(it only splines one way.) when each piece is lined up, simply push together and reinstall two screws. snap circuit board cover into place. reinstall ice maker into freezer in reverse order.

The old icemaker had a bad motor and would stall in the fill cycle causing my kitchen to flood on occasion.

The new one was so quiet, I thought it didn't work!

Anyway, one nutdriver and 5 minutes and I had the new one in there... It is so quiet, and I always have plenty of ice now!!!

Thanks!!!

Removed the old gasket and made sure we put the new one in the same way. A wooden mixing spoon was the best tool for pushing the gasket into the track without hurting it. We used the back of the spoon and it went right in with no problem.

Removed the three motor screws pulled off old motor put new motor in place replaced screws and re-installed. It was producing ice three hours later. I originally tried to obtian these parts directly from Whirlpool in which twice they shipped me the wrong parts. Finally gave up on them and entered the whilrpool part number which crossreferenced to new part number which was correct the first try. Thank you!

For replacing end cap, LH pantry part:
removed large pantry drawer
removed two small upper pantry drawers
removed glass panel and long braces---all these parts required no tools
used 1/4" nut driver to remove 3 screws from broken end cap, LH pantry part and shook it to release it from the refrigerator
used phillips head screw driver to remove drawer arms
replaced metal drawer arms to new end cap, LH pantry part
attached new end cap, LH panrty part to refigerator and finised by using nut driver on all 3 screws. then replaced other pantry dawers, glass shelf, and pantry cover. EASY!

The repair seemed simple, I just needed to remove the old bracket -- 4 screws -- and slip the new one on.

The tricky bit is that the roller bracket holds the weight of the fridge. So in order to make sure that the fridge did not fall over, and to keep the installation point off the ground so that I could align the screw holes, I needed to shim up the side of the fridge that I was working on.

To tap in the shims, I used a hammer and a spare chunk of wood. I ultimately used 3 shims, and kept tapping until the roller wheel could roll freely. Then I knew that the fridge was high enough. After that, it was pretty easy to remove the 4 screws, align the new bracket, and replace the screws. After that, in order to get the shims out I could just extend the foot brake as it was designed, and that lifted the fridge enough for me to easily slide out the shims. After that I just had to level out the fridge by adjusting the two feet.

First I unplugged the unit, then I popped off the cover to the icemaker electronics. Removed 4 screws, pulled out the broken electronic panel, and replaced with the new one. Returned the screws and cover. The next moring the ice bin was full.

This must have saved me $300, and the inconvernience of waiting around for the repair man. He would have made two trips since he would never have had this part with him.

Ordered new drawer -- fast and easy to find the correct part on this site. I also felt that the price was very reasonable.
Except for one thing, it would have been simple to slide the new drawer in.
The original drawer has a white plastic "face" that is removable.
"Removable" is a relative term. It took my wife and I over 20 mins to very carefully remove the face without breaking. One person could not do it --- you need to hold the drawer firmly while another pries the face off carefully. Once off, it was able to be pushed on to the new drawer -- be firm.

Beware - the website does not indicate that doors are different sizes on this model refrigerator. Not paying attention I ordered 2 of the same size gasket which only fit the right side door - had to send one back and reorder left side from Whirpool directly.

The actual installation is very easy. It may take a day or so the gasket to feel like its actually making a good seal.

1. Empty your fridge. Lighter is easier to move and this is the hardest step in the fix. 2. Move your fridge so you can get behind it. Unplug the fridge. 3. Use a 1/4in nut driver to remove the screws from the back panel. 4. Remove the back panel. 5. Locate the compressor (big cylinder, usually black) and find the capacitor (PS11757023) and start dev (PS11750123) plugged into the side of the compressor. 6. There is a steel spring restraint wire, remove this. 7. Remove the pin connector (plastic w/ wires going to it) by pressing and pulling gently. Remove the old capacitor and start dev. 8. Assemble the new capacitor and start dev to each other. 9. Plug the pin connector into the new replacement components. 10. Align the start dev to the location of the old components. There is a 3 pin outlet that aligns to the 3 plug holes on the start dev. Align the plug then push gently but firmly to seat the components back together. 11. Reinstall the restraint wire. 12. Reinstall the pack panel. 13. Put your refrigerator back in place and load it up! You're all done!