KSRP22KDWH01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

After removing all the food items from the door, I popped the plastic cover off of the hinge assembly located on the top of the door. With a fine point Sharpie pen , I marked the outline of around the hinge assembly so I could return it to original position. I then loosened each of the 3 bolts holding the hinge on just enough to allow me to clear the pin of the hinge out of the hole in the door. Once the top was free of the hinge, I lifted the door off of the bottom hinge/pin assembly. My cam parts on the bottom hinge and door were either broken and/or partially missing. I removed the broken and worn pieces by removing each of the screws holding the top and bottom (of the bottom hinge assembly) cam pieces and installed the new ones using same screws. I then reversed the steps and slid the bottom of the door back onto the bottom hinge assembly and then lifted the top hinge enough to allow the hinge pin to slid back into the hole on top of the door. Positioned the hinge so it matched the outline and tightened the 3 bolts. I checked the closing and made a slight adjustment to door as one of the shelves was hitting the interior as it tried to close. I did this by loosening the 3 bolts and pushing the door up and to the right (this door was on the right side of refrigerator). Tightened the bolts and reinstalled the hinge cover.
Pretty easy. My door cams were a little different so I didn't use all the parts in the kit. My shims were metal and did not move when I replace the cams so I didn't use anything in this repair except the 2 lower cam parts. I also put some grease/vaseline on the cams to lubricate them.
I figure the plastic cams just wore out over the years and all the heavy junk we put in the door shelves. I lived with this problem about 2 years before it donned on me that it was probably just a plastic piece or two that was broken or worn out.

1. Unplug refrigerator to remove power!
2. The timer is inside the control housing located at the top of the refrigerator compartment.
3. Remove two control knobs (the pull off).
4. Remove the front panel escutcheon. The panel is not held in place with screws, but can be gently pried off.
5. Remove two screws from the back that hold the housing in place.
6. Remove screws from the front that hold the housing in place.
7. Drop housing down (still attached by wires - do not detach). Timer is inside housing, located on right.
8. Follow the instructions provided to identify your particular wiring setup. You'll find the wiring diagram (on my model) at the bottom of the refrigerator, alongside the defrost catch pan, behind the airflow grille.
9. Remove connector from timer terminals (4).
10. Remove two screws/nuts that hold the timer in place.
11. Install replacement timer following included directions. Read and follow ALL instructions applicable to your particular model and wiring setup.
12. Reassemble by reversing the steps above.
13. Note: You may need to "jog" the replacement timer when you first plug the refrigerator back in, if the timer happens to be in a "defrost cycle" (the compressor won't start). This can be done by inserting a wide bladed screwdriver into the hole below the timer, aligning it with the timer shaft, and slightly turning the shaft CW. Don't force it, and don't turn it very far.

rmv panel (5min) rmv fan/motor 3 screws (10 m) cut wire 2in from motor, re route remainder of wire to front so can strip for wire nuts. ( 10m) attach old fan to new motor, place in old opening ,3 screws, a little fussy to align, ( 15m ) route and strip wire from new motor , zip ties work well, wire nuts , plug in fridge vola, no noise, close up, reverse panel. ( 20m). i also took time to clean grilles with small vac and damp rag, ( looks and sounds like new) bob Wi.

An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

DISCONNECT POWER. Removed all shelves/baskets.Popped upper panel off (just clips in) Removed 6 screws in lower back panel ( 3 each side) slid panel in place but down. You can then easily see the defrost thermostat/defrost termination switch. Cut the wire connectors (pink n brown wire) stripped back wire, attached new defrost thermostat. Thermostat clips on. New thermostat ohm's at 5.5, old one was "open". Slid cover back up meeting the upper cover grooves. Screwed lower panel in. Put shelves etc back in. Plugged in. Turns on, put a bottle of water in freezer. Checked a while later, frozen. has been frozen for a week.
-James

I have a side by side so in order to access the bi-metal switch I first had to empty out the freezer. The switch is clipped on to the top of the evaporator coil. I had to remove 8 screws to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment. The bi-metal switch was right there in plain view. There are two colored wires that come out of the switch. I tried pulling them out of the socket they were plugged into but gave up for fear of breaking something. I ended up cutting the wires and splicing them together. I used the plastic twist caps. I made sure when I closed everything back up that the open end of the caps were pointing down so no water can accumulate in them. It has been 3 days now and so far so good

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

Just removed the old timer and attached the wires to the new one and replaced the old. That simple!

Replacement was very easy as new ice maker was identical to the old one. Took about 10 minutes.

The plastic lower door closing cam was worn down. Replacing it was very simple: remove the top door hinge by unscrewing three nuts; lift the door off the lower hinge; unscrew and remove the lower door hinge; screw the new plastic lower door closing cam on to the new door hinge; screw the new lower door hinge; lift the door back on to the lower door hinge; screw the top door hinge.

My husband replaced the condenser fan. It took awhile and a few choice words but he got it replaced. The fan seemed to work fine, but it still wasn't cooling. I noticed that when we had the fridge unplugged that water started draining out the dials at the top of the fridge under the freezer. And there was absolutely no water at all in the drip pan under the fridge. So I took the doors off and totally took the inside of the freezer apart. I discovered that the styrofoam on the floor of the freezer had become inudated with fluid and the under the foam the coils were all frozen solid with ice. Hence not allowing any drainage. I put a lamp in the freezer area and defrosted all the ice. In searching the internet i discovered that they no longer produce the foam so i went to home depot and got a piece of foam and aluminum foil and cut it to replace the ruined foam. I put the fridge all back together said a prayer and crossed my fingers and lo and behold it works perfectly now!!!!

I had read here from someone that fixed there shelf support stub and it was very loose, so I was trying to advoid that problem. It took me less then 5 minutes and my only tool was a pair of pliers. A short turn clock wise from the 9 on a clock to the 12 ( which is the top left corner ). then pull the broke shelf stub straight out. Put the new shelf support in the same way you took the old one out and turn counter clock wise 1/4 or from 12 back to 9 and you should have a tight fit. I hope this helped.

Remove the back hardboard cover screws for access to the condenser fan. I opted to tip the fridge over on its side for even better access to the fan mounts and wire. Replaced the fan assy (reused the fan). Splice the wire and it's done.

Removed six screws from cover in the back of the freezer. Removed old fan . Removed power wires from old motor. Unclipped old motor from the mounting bracket. Replaced old motor and reversed the rest of the parts. Done

I saw on a partselect web site that these symptoms could be caused by a failed condensor fan motor. After removing the cardboard panel in back of the refrigerator I noticed the fan was not running when the rfigerator was. The fan was held in place by three brackets. I unscrewed the screws holding the fan motor to the brackets and also unscrewed one of the brackets to make room to pull the motor out. I cut the wires close to the motor. I removed the fan blade and secured it to the new motor. I had to reroute the old wires in order to have enough slack to use wire nuts to attach them to the leads on the new motor. I then re-attached the motor to the two brackets remaining in place and then re-attacehed the third bracket I had removed to get the motor out.. The most difficult part was working in a very confined space.