KSSC42FMS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.

The on-line video and the hard-copy instructions with the replacement part made it very easy. Just loosened the 2 upper screws and took out the bottom one. Eased the ice maker out a bit and disconnected the plug at the back (power was off). Checked the replacement part had exactly the same wiring harness - it did. Fitted the bail arm from the old one. So simply did the same process in reverse. So 15-20 minutes after I started, the job was compelete. It takes a while for ice to start coming, but it did, and after 24 hours I threw out the ice and started again to make sure the ice came from fresh water.

The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.

Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.

After lots of internet exploring and diagnosis, the icemaker comes right out, and with three screws out and in, the job is all but done. Don't pay anyone for this repair!!!!!

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

I removed screws to rear cardboard cover. I then removed the condensor fan by unscrewing the nut off the shaft. I then removed 4 screws holding the fan motor. I then replaced the motor and reversed the process.

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.

Technician at ASK suggested replacing ice maker. Ordered new ice maker(prompt delevery)then noticed it came without wire arm and white platic "flag". Ordered arm and "flag", replaced all old with new and seems to be doing well. Perhaps all I needed was the plastic "flag" on the limit arm wire. Will never know. The new icemaker wiring had short wires and a connector. Old ice maker had no connector so the short wires were removed and the old wires plugged into the ice maker. Mirror was required in order to see the side wall mounting screws. Very narrow work area, tiny freezer side.

Removed the two screws that hold flaping door. Removed the single screw that covers the connecting wires. Disconnected the wiring plug. I wiggled out the ice maker. Took off the motor cover. Swapped out one motor for the other. Reinstalled the icemaker in the resverse order of removal. Note the wiring plug in the freeze is very from. It makine s the reconnection differcult.

Unlug refrig or turn off refrig from its control panel On/OFF switch.
For ease of work remove freezer shelve directly below the ice maker. Remove four screws from the bottom of the ice maker assembly, three that secure the ice maker and the other that holds a plastice shroud in place over the ice maker's power plug.
The ice maker is now ready to be removed; it will slide forward by pushing up on left and right side of the ice maker's mounting slide rails. Once the ice maker is moved forward it is easier to disconnect its power plug (depress a locking tab on the side of the connector and pull connector apart and remove ice maker assembly.
Remove and replace motor module by removing three screws and and replace with new unit.
Reverse ice maker removal proceure for installation. Once installation is completed turn on Power to Refrig, Ice making should begin after a few hours.

After checking all connections I determined the ice maker which had been replaced on 01/2007 stopped making ice. I had serviceman from a local company return and check the ice maker. He rinsed the ice maker under warm water, melting the ice build-up and re-installed the ice maker. I watched him do the re-installation, then waited for two days to see if the ice maker was functioning. Since the ice maker wasn't working, I called the serviceman, who in turn informed me that the replacement ice maker had increased in price from $170.00 to $274.00. That is when I contacted your web site, ordered the replacement ice maker.
I was totally amazed and pleased by the fast,
easy, and efficient way my order was processed and the ice maker was delivered.
I followed the instructions included with the ice maker, and installed the replacement ice maker in about 20 minutes. I can't thank you enough for the great service. I only wish I had checked my computer after the first ice maker broke down and found your web site.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

We have a side-by-side and the tutorial was different than what we have. Had trouble getting cover off, but finally repaired and WE HAVE ICE! Also took longer than expected.
Saved a lot!

Bi-metal defrost thermostat tested bad, so replaced. To remove back freezer panel on this model, remove top left and right shelf pegs (use a screw driver). This will let back freezer panel slide up and out.

Control board, located in metal box above the inverter board had a bad 200uF electrolytic capacitor (bulging top) and 12v relay. Replaced all 5 electrolytic capacitors on the board and all 4 relays.

Works good.