KSCS22QFAL01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions
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The Ice maker would not work.
We rolled the refrigerator out away from the wall and it was obvious where the break was located. We took out the old water spout for the ice maker and replaced the tube and the tubing from the solenoid. We turned it on and soon we had water dripping everywhere. We unloaded and defrosted the freezer which got all of the remaining ice that was stuck in there. We put everything back together. I read in some instructions in the manual that it might take 24 hours for the ice maker to reprogram itself and start producing ice. I was only about 12 hours and we had ice again and everything worked well. You really do not have to disconnect the water from the main line, the solinoid controls that part of operation and turns the water off until the ice trays are free and clear.
JLB
JLB
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- Customer:
- Leandro from Baldwin Park, CA
- Parts Used:
- 4389144
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The freezer wouldn't freeze and the refrigerator wouldn't refrigerate.
Same as everybody else on this post. Real easy. Actually, I just wish I would have done it sooner.
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- Customer:
- Hank from Seattle, WA
- Parts Used:
- 4318165
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The refrigerator door made a terrible bang every time it was opened.
The hardest part was unloading all the food from the refridgerator door! Once done, pry shroud off top door hinge, remove 3 screws and hinge plate. Lift door off bottom hinge. Remove one screw from bottom of door, remove and discard old lifter cam and spacer. Clean up a bit. Install new spacer and lifter cam. Tighten new screw firmly. Replace the lifter cam and spacer on bottom hinge pin (affixed to refridgerator body) using the same method. Replacing the door is easiest if 2 people do it. One person to lift and steady the door, the other has to lie on the floor and guide the door onto the hinge pin. Replace top hinge plate and screws. Snap shroud back over top hinge plate. Replace food in refridgerator. Close door. Done!
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- Customer:
- Michael from Deer Park, TX
- Parts Used:
- W10422851
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
Auger drum broke
Very easy. Your online video was agreat help.
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Rattling noise in beind freezer compartment
remove shelves in freezer compartment incl.holders(slide up to remove)
Remove lamp/shield
Remove panel (six phillips screws)
disconnect motor
pull off fan blade
squeeze bracket holding motor to remove
remove motor.
Re-assemble (in reverse)
Remove lamp/shield
Remove panel (six phillips screws)
disconnect motor
pull off fan blade
squeeze bracket holding motor to remove
remove motor.
Re-assemble (in reverse)
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- Customer:
- Don from Oregon City, OR
- Parts Used:
- W10822259
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Suspected fan failure
I pulled the refer from the wall, disconnected the power and removed the cardboard cover at the base. Using a vacuum and compressed air, I cleaned it thoroughly.
I used a screwdriver to lift the locking tab on the 3-wire connector and removed it. The best way to get the three bolts off was with a 1/4" drive ratchet and go to the std nutdriver handle when they were loose. The fan came out carefully with the blade. I removed the blade nut with flat nosed pliers, cleaned it and placed it on the new motor. I replaced the motor and installed the screws. On a do-over I would install onew screw in each hole at least halfway to get the threads started/ threaded. After that the connector slipped in and I spun the blade to check for interference. The blades can be slightly bent, but use of nut tension can also slightly adjust fan alignment as it's tight to the housing.
That's it
I used a screwdriver to lift the locking tab on the 3-wire connector and removed it. The best way to get the three bolts off was with a 1/4" drive ratchet and go to the std nutdriver handle when they were loose. The fan came out carefully with the blade. I removed the blade nut with flat nosed pliers, cleaned it and placed it on the new motor. I replaced the motor and installed the screws. On a do-over I would install onew screw in each hole at least halfway to get the threads started/ threaded. After that the connector slipped in and I spun the blade to check for interference. The blades can be slightly bent, but use of nut tension can also slightly adjust fan alignment as it's tight to the housing.
That's it
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Pottstown, PA
- Parts Used:
- W10822278
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Noise coming from defrost timer
First I unplugged appliance then I remove two screws from the thermostat/light cover. I then remove two defrost timer mounting screws and all electrical connectors. Then utilizing instructions recieved with new defrost timer I ascertained which wires should go where. When I was sure I had the wires ready I connected them to the others in the appliance and plugged the appliance in to ensure that the noise was no longer heard and made sure timer was working. Everything seemed fine so I unplugged appliance and secured two defrost timer mounting screws and thermostat/light cover mounting screws and that was that.
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- Customer:
- Ralph from Saint Petersburg, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP2180226
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Water would not come out of the dispenser.
Removed catch tray and then removed two screws that are underneath. I left the control panel hanging from its wires, then removed the two screws from the control bracket.
A word of caution before next step: You need to remove the two micro switches on the left and right. While trying to remove one, it split apart and the pieces fell out. I was able to put it back together and it worked fine. So be careful with the micro switches.
Continue tranferring wires and switches to the new bracket and reassemble in the opposite order.
An easy repair.
A word of caution before next step: You need to remove the two micro switches on the left and right. While trying to remove one, it split apart and the pieces fell out. I was able to put it back together and it worked fine. So be careful with the micro switches.
Continue tranferring wires and switches to the new bracket and reassemble in the opposite order.
An easy repair.
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- Customer:
- Roger from MOUNTAIN HOME, AR
- Parts Used:
- W10853654
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Wrench set
The in-door water dispenser stopped working but the ice continued to work.
I first had to identify the faulty part. I ohms checked the micro switch in the door. It was fine. I traced the wiring to the inlet valve at the bottom of the rear of the unit. I checked the voltage to the solenoids and it was good. After checking the schematics on the Whirlpool website, I determined the only possible faulty part was the inlet valve. I found the correct part here on PartSelect and ordered it. When the part arrived I changed out inlet valves by turning off the water supply, unplugging the refrigerator, removing the two inlet valve mounting screws, and disconnecting the wire terminals. The inlet water line was a 1/2" compression nut and the water and ice outlets were hand turn compression nuts. I reversed the removal steps to install the new valve, turned the water on, checked for leaks, plugged in the refrigerator, and the new valve worked perfectly. The feeling of accomplishing a DIY project was only topped by a happy wife who really didn't want to spend the money on a new fridge!
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- Customer:
- Nelson from East Orange, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WP2180226
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
the ice dispenser, micro switch control bracket broke and the ice was not dispensing
Removed the screws that held the control breaket. Then I removed (2) micro switches, and for a cable tie, I slide the old control bracket out and installed the new one purchased from your store. 5 minutes worth of work. THAT IT!!! It was very, very, simple the repair
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ice maker and water dispenser would not work due to switch clamps being broken off the control plate
remove the front cover. everything else is a quick disconnect type of connection. Nothing to it! I would remove the cover and check these connections anytime the dispenser does not work. Look for broken or disconnected switches. This reapir took me a couple of minutes whereas the repair guy wanted almost 200 bucks to do this job. Parts ran around 30 with shipping.
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- Customer:
- Teresa from Moneta, VA
- Parts Used:
- W10822259
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The fan wouldn't run as needed. The top of the refrigerator was really hot.
My husband took the old motor out by taking the screws out. Then, he unplugged the fan. We searched your site for the part. With the pictures on the site, we were able to match the motor exactly. The delivery was really fast. When we received the part, he installed the fan and plugged in the power connector. We have replaced refrigerator fans before but anyone can do this with no experience. Just follow the instructions and you're all set.
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- Customer:
- Maxine from Birmingham, AL
- Parts Used:
- W10822278
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
would not cycle
removed the defrost timer and replaced with new unit now i have a refrigerator again
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- Customer:
- Ron from Ferndale, WA
- Parts Used:
- 4317943
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
No water to the ice maker
At age 65 I have never attempted to repair a refrigerator, until now. It took longer than needed because I did not read these articles carefully. Please note that when you open the door and the light blinks twice, waits a second and blinks again, the optics are working fine. I ordered an emitter and receiver when I didn't need to. I sent it back, the money was refunded, and ordered the ice maker. I replaced the old icemaker by removing three screws and slipping it out of its holder.
Here is how I found out I needed the new ice maker. I took the supply line apart that runs down the back of the refrigerator. I blew through it without any trouble. This told me that the line was not frozen within the refrigerator. I put the supply line back together, and jumped the solenoid that was connected to the supply line at the bottom right of the refrigerator. My model is the side by side, so it has two solenoids. The solenoid that runs the water to the dispenser in the door was always running, so I knew if there was a problem it would be with the ice maker solenoid. So, how did I jump the solenoid. Kids, don't try this at home. I disconnected the wiring harness to the solenoid by pulling it straight out. Then I took the female end of an extension chord and placed a twelve two electrical wire with the ends stripped into the positive and negative slots. I then jumped the solenoid. Water ran to the ice maker, but there still wasn't any ice made. Since the optics and the solenoid were working it seemed to me that the ice maker wasn't doing it's part. There are easier ways to check the solenoid in this forum, but this worked for me. I saved a lot of money and the parts got here quickly.
Here is how I found out I needed the new ice maker. I took the supply line apart that runs down the back of the refrigerator. I blew through it without any trouble. This told me that the line was not frozen within the refrigerator. I put the supply line back together, and jumped the solenoid that was connected to the supply line at the bottom right of the refrigerator. My model is the side by side, so it has two solenoids. The solenoid that runs the water to the dispenser in the door was always running, so I knew if there was a problem it would be with the ice maker solenoid. So, how did I jump the solenoid. Kids, don't try this at home. I disconnected the wiring harness to the solenoid by pulling it straight out. Then I took the female end of an extension chord and placed a twelve two electrical wire with the ends stripped into the positive and negative slots. I then jumped the solenoid. Water ran to the ice maker, but there still wasn't any ice made. Since the optics and the solenoid were working it seemed to me that the ice maker wasn't doing it's part. There are easier ways to check the solenoid in this forum, but this worked for me. I saved a lot of money and the parts got here quickly.
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- Customer:
- Elizabeth from DELRAY BEACH, FL
- Parts Used:
- WPW10225581
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Refrigerator No Longer Cooling Properly
Approximately:
1. Unplugged refrigerator.
2. Emptied Freezer.
3. Removed Ice Maker.
4. Waited a few hours for ice to melt around back panel & nuts.
5. Removed back panel and the cover over fan and fan motor.
6. Waited many more hours for ice to thaw over fins, wiring, etc.
7. Easily replaced the bi-mental defrost thermostat.
8. Replaced panel, fan cover, ice maker.
9. Plugged in refrigerator and waited a bit.
This worked! Yahoo.
p.s. I am a 65+ year old mechanically minded woman. :-)
1. Unplugged refrigerator.
2. Emptied Freezer.
3. Removed Ice Maker.
4. Waited a few hours for ice to melt around back panel & nuts.
5. Removed back panel and the cover over fan and fan motor.
6. Waited many more hours for ice to thaw over fins, wiring, etc.
7. Easily replaced the bi-mental defrost thermostat.
8. Replaced panel, fan cover, ice maker.
9. Plugged in refrigerator and waited a bit.
This worked! Yahoo.
p.s. I am a 65+ year old mechanically minded woman. :-)
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