KSRG22FKSS04 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

removed screws that held the ice maker in place, then removed the cover (popped off) The drive element was easy to remove, three screws and it was out. I put in the new part and reinstalled the icemaker with the three screws that hold it in place. I never call Sears for any repair. They use contract help and I have heard horror stories about those guys!

ridiculous how a tiny plastic broken part required a full motor assembly replacement. that being said, i went online, found this website and easily identified the part i needed to order. i was impressed when it arrived within a couple of days. removing the old motor and replacing the new was a piece of cake...and i am NOT mechanically inclined,

Really simple clear instructions with photos. With this the repair was quick and easy simply remove the bad relay and replace with the correct one. Great delivery time with terrific instructions.

simply removed wires from the old motor and gently lifted it out by by the metal clips - put the old bracket on the new motor, snapped on the new fan, replaced the wires, reinstalled the shield. All done in about 15 min.

I removed the cover for the lower part of the refrigerator to inspect the wiring and motor. I removed the switch and removed the wiring from it. The wiring just plugs in. When the new switch arrived, I just reinstalled it to the side of the motor and the refrigerator has been working fine ever since.

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

That was due to the evaporator blocked by the ice. Check found the defrost timer is okay. The next thing I can think of is to replace the Electronic Control Board which is installed in the fridge side top compartment. Ply open the face cover, remove the nut and screw that secure the EC Board. Pull out the cable, mount the new card and re-connect. So simple. It is back in order.

Same as everybody else on this post. Real easy. Actually, I just wish I would have done it sooner.

remove shelves in freezer compartment incl.holders(slide up to remove)
Remove lamp/shield
Remove panel (six phillips screws)
disconnect motor
pull off fan blade
squeeze bracket holding motor to remove
remove motor.
Re-assemble (in reverse)

found power up to current relay but not to compressor. removed the old current relay and installed the new relay and the compressor started running and the refrigerator works fine now.

First, verified power supply. I have power at wall outlet, no power at compressor. Also noticed no condenser fan operation. Searched YouTube and watched a few diagnostic videos of how to test for proper operation of my model. Dropped the control panel down to reveal the thermostat switch and control board. Wiggled thermostat knob and compressor would work intermittently. Thermostat bad internally. Removed wiring connections, removed cover over temp.probe. slowly removed capillary tube. Removed plastic sheath from tube. Take your time installing new capillary tube into plastic sheath as not to kink and damage tube. Route the new tube back into position that the old one was in. Reinstall covers. NOTE: My wiring terminals on the new switch were in different locations but the switch was the same dimensions. I used a multi-meter to determine the correct wire locations on new switch and installed. Reconnected power and all works well now.

I pulled the refer from the wall, disconnected the power and removed the cardboard cover at the base. Using a vacuum and compressed air, I cleaned it thoroughly.
I used a screwdriver to lift the locking tab on the 3-wire connector and removed it. The best way to get the three bolts off was with a 1/4" drive ratchet and go to the std nutdriver handle when they were loose. The fan came out carefully with the blade. I removed the blade nut with flat nosed pliers, cleaned it and placed it on the new motor. I replaced the motor and installed the screws. On a do-over I would install onew screw in each hole at least halfway to get the threads started/ threaded. After that the connector slipped in and I spun the blade to check for interference. The blades can be slightly bent, but use of nut tension can also slightly adjust fan alignment as it's tight to the housing.
That's it

Removed catch tray and then removed two screws that are underneath. I left the control panel hanging from its wires, then removed the two screws from the control bracket.
A word of caution before next step: You need to remove the two micro switches on the left and right. While trying to remove one, it split apart and the pieces fell out. I was able to put it back together and it worked fine. So be careful with the micro switches.
Continue tranferring wires and switches to the new bracket and reassemble in the opposite order.
An easy repair.

Read the instructions that came with the relay/overload.

Determined wich of the relays and overloads in the kit supplied was needed on the refrigerator.

removed the old relay and capacitor.

Simply installed the new parts .

Back in business.

Thanks for the quick delivery.

Approximately:

1. Unplugged refrigerator.
2. Emptied Freezer.
3. Removed Ice Maker.
4. Waited a few hours for ice to melt around back panel & nuts.
5. Removed back panel and the cover over fan and fan motor.
6. Waited many more hours for ice to thaw over fins, wiring, etc.
7. Easily replaced the bi-mental defrost thermostat.
8. Replaced panel, fan cover, ice maker.
9. Plugged in refrigerator and waited a bit.

This worked! Yahoo.

p.s. I am a 65+ year old mechanically minded woman. :-)