KRCA06XPSS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove top henge, lift door off bottom henge, take off old plastic closer put on new one. Door works great now

I had watched several video's on installing the plugs in the Kitchenaid model that I had, but when it came down to the install the figuration was a little different. I did figure it out and the rest was a piece of cake. Remember to shut the power off!

removed screw on top cover emptied ref door remove 3 top screws holding bracket on top. lifted the door then remove old cam then reassembled.

Remove all contents from refrigerator door. Removed top hinge (3 machine screws). Remove door & place on table. Remove closing cam from bottom of door & install the replacement-reassemble. Very easy repair for a very annoying problem. Lots of descriptions on You Tube as well.

I suggest following video supplied with order confirmation perfect fit

Remove replace door with new cams.

stopped the fan and noise stopped ordered fan motor and fan with interface cable. Using 1/4 inch nut driver to remove screws from motor bracket installed new motor and runs like new.

Unplugged the fridge first then took the bottom panel off with a 1/4 inch nut driver. Disconnected the wiring & used my ratchet to reach the 3 screws that held the motor. Took me longer to clean the bottom of the fridge then the installation.

Turn fridge off. Removed top hinge cover. Removed three screws in top hinge. Lifted hinge from door. Lifted door off bottom hinge. Place door on level surface and removed old cam with socket set. Installed new cam. Removed old cam from bottom hinge with socket set. Installed new cam. Cleaned bottom of door while had easy access. Placed door back on bottom hinge. Install top hinge and screws. Finished.

I was anticipating that the fan would be facing the back of the refrigerator. It actually was perpendicular to the back. There was some difficulty removing the bolts of the fan. I persevered and was victorious.

Swapped out evaporator fan motor, solved the problem!

DISCLAIMER: Technically, you should start by unplugging the frig and turning off the water supply. Though there is nothing on the my frig door that is either electrical or water related, the frig does keep trying to cooling an open area. For the short while I was doing the work, I just didn't want to bother with those precautions. Had I expected the work to take longer or been working on the FREEZER door I would have most certainly have done it "correctly." But I didn't do the freezer door so, first, remove everything from the refrigerator door storage shelves and the shelves themselves. Then lift off the cap that covers the hinge mounting plate on top of the frig. Remove the screws that holds the mounting plate in place. I used a cordless drill/driver with a 1/4" socket on the end but this could be done with a nut driver or socket wrench as well. Of course, take care not to let the door fall when removing the last screw. Then, lift the door off the bottom post that his holding it in place. The door is not too heavy and one person should not have a problem doing this but if you think it might be too heavy get someone to help with this. On the frig door there are no other connectors to be concerned with. NOTE: This procedure is similar for the freezer door but there are electrical and water line connections that need to be addressed before removing the door. Once the door is off the post, lay it down on a flat work service (I used the kitchen table with some towels spread underneath to prevent scratching either the table or the frig door.) There are two pieces that ought to be replaced. One cam on the door and one at the bottom post. Both are attached with a small screw that is removed easily with your nut driver/socket/drill driver. The bottom cam came offer fairly simply but sliding a thin, flat blade screw driver under it and prying it up and off. Replace this bottom cam with a new one and screw it back down. The door cam was, for me, the more difficult item. Removing the screw was easy enough but years of wear and brittleness led it to break off as I was trying to pry it out. I was able to use a small flat blade screwdriver to cave the old plastic post in all around the insert hole until I could get a good hold and pull it out with needle nose pliers. I was tempted to try to drill the old post out but there is a hex shape to the insert hole I was afraid of ruining. Once I got the old cam out, it was a simple matter to re-insert the new cam. Since both the door and lower cams are held on by screws there is only one way they can go back on. Once the cams are back in place, lift the door back onto the post and reattach the mounting plate to the top of the frig. Take some care that the door is level and parallel to the freezer door before completely tightening the mounting screws and replacing the cap that covers the plate. If you did shut off water and unplug the frig you should turn it back on and plug it back in. And do I really need to tell you to put the shelves and stuff back? :) The door should close on its own when close enough to the frig frame that the cam notches slide into place. If it hadn't been for the door cam being so brittle, this repair would have quite simple. Even at that, digging the old post out really wasn't hard but it did take some unexpected effort. If your refrigerator door is not closing properly, this is something anyone with basic skills can do.

Removed the top hinge cap. Removed the 3 screws with a nutdriver. Lifted the door off of the bottom hinge and placed it on it's side. Then I removed both closing cams (one screw holding each). Clean the area then replaced each cam. I put some vaseline on the bottom cam and replaced the door. 4-5 minutes not counting removing and replacing the food inside the door shelves. I'm 56 years old and have always done most of my own handywork. I don't remember any job going so smooth and fast! Ever!

pulled top hinge pin off with 5/16 nut driver ,lifted door off and was able to see both parts and replaced them just like they were,easy fix

supported the door on blocks. removed old parts with a socket and ratchet. the new parts didn't line up quite right, so some modification with a dremel was necessary. otherwise, the repair was very simple.