KRCA06XRSS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

It's as easy as it can be, but the parts are not the right ones.

Used u-tube video to review steps in making repair. Wires shorter than described but after looking at replacement sockets difference was clear.

First let me say that the instructional video on your website for this repair was very informative. My son and I watched that before we began the repair. We unplugged the unit first. After removing the back cover, he unplugged the old fan's electrical connection, and then proceeded to remove the fan and bracket from the unit. We then removed the old fan from the bracket, installed the new one and then he reinstalled the new fan and bracket back into the unit. He used the included electric adaptor cable to complete the electrical connection, plugged in the refrigerator briefly to confirm all was well (it was), then replaced the back cover and we were done.

Just as shown on your video.The refrigerator side was not sitting even, clunked and did not seal right. I decided to do.both sides, refrigerator and freezer while I was at it as our refrigerator is about 16 years old. Everything went in easily and saved us a lot of money. Very happy with the parts and repair video. Got the refrigerator nice and cleaned out while we were at it..Us and the refrigerator are breathing easier now..Yeepppeee....

I did some tests and determined that the tub-to-pump drain hose had a leak in it.I then looked on the web to find disassembly instructions. I have a stacked washer dryer combination in a very confined space. The repair involved disconnecting both the washer and dryer from the water, gas, electric and venting systems first, then unstacking the dryer from the washer (not so easy, it required a helper). The machine was then pulled out so I could get at the parts necessary to remove the outside components and sheet metal. Then, I disassembled the top, front and access panel in the back. The disassembly went very well. I got access to the drain hose assembly and removed it fairly easily. I ordered a replacement drain hose assembly and found that installing the large port of the assembly was very difficult. (The two other ports were easy.) After thinking about it, I tilted the machine back a bit so I could try it from the bottom. That worked fine.I then reassembled and tested the machine. No leaks. Good luck with yours!

I removed the flat panel inside freezer & fan blades not turning. I removed 2 1/4” screws, unplugged wires took fan motor out & put that fan blade on new fan motor. Plugged wires into new motor replaced 2 bolts, reinstalled flat panel plugged refrigerator in & reset temperature controls. The next day checked temperature and was all done.

I just followed the directions on the video of my specific model. Make a note of where to locate that video of your model, as there are many other videos of other models that can have different parts located in different areas and it can be time consuming finding the exact video you want again.
Also note that you must make mental or written notes on exactly what direction any parts you remove are facing, this can save huge amounts of time when reassembling.
I was worried that I might need other parts, but decided to do one part replacement at a time since this unit is a spare and no urgency to get it back working again. I found that the evaporator fan was the only thing needed! The fridge works like new again!

remove top hinge take door off replace parts on bottm hinge put door back on done

Removed right hand door of side by side. Replaced both cams and put door back. All is well.

DISCLAIMER: Technically, you should start by unplugging the frig and turning off the water supply. Though there is nothing on the my frig door that is either electrical or water related, the frig does keep trying to cooling an open area. For the short while I was doing the work, I just didn't want to bother with those precautions. Had I expected the work to take longer or been working on the FREEZER door I would have most certainly have done it "correctly." But I didn't do the freezer door so, first, remove everything from the refrigerator door storage shelves and the shelves themselves. Then lift off the cap that covers the hinge mounting plate on top of the frig. Remove the screws that holds the mounting plate in place. I used a cordless drill/driver with a 1/4" socket on the end but this could be done with a nut driver or socket wrench as well. Of course, take care not to let the door fall when removing the last screw. Then, lift the door off the bottom post that his holding it in place. The door is not too heavy and one person should not have a problem doing this but if you think it might be too heavy get someone to help with this. On the frig door there are no other connectors to be concerned with. NOTE: This procedure is similar for the freezer door but there are electrical and water line connections that need to be addressed before removing the door. Once the door is off the post, lay it down on a flat work service (I used the kitchen table with some towels spread underneath to prevent scratching either the table or the frig door.) There are two pieces that ought to be replaced. One cam on the door and one at the bottom post. Both are attached with a small screw that is removed easily with your nut driver/socket/drill driver. The bottom cam came offer fairly simply but sliding a thin, flat blade screw driver under it and prying it up and off. Replace this bottom cam with a new one and screw it back down. The door cam was, for me, the more difficult item. Removing the screw was easy enough but years of wear and brittleness led it to break off as I was trying to pry it out. I was able to use a small flat blade screwdriver to cave the old plastic post in all around the insert hole until I could get a good hold and pull it out with needle nose pliers. I was tempted to try to drill the old post out but there is a hex shape to the insert hole I was afraid of ruining. Once I got the old cam out, it was a simple matter to re-insert the new cam. Since both the door and lower cams are held on by screws there is only one way they can go back on. Once the cams are back in place, lift the door back onto the post and reattach the mounting plate to the top of the frig. Take some care that the door is level and parallel to the freezer door before completely tightening the mounting screws and replacing the cap that covers the plate. If you did shut off water and unplug the frig you should turn it back on and plug it back in. And do I really need to tell you to put the shelves and stuff back? :) The door should close on its own when close enough to the frig frame that the cam notches slide into place. If it hadn't been for the door cam being so brittle, this repair would have quite simple. Even at that, digging the old post out really wasn't hard but it did take some unexpected effort. If your refrigerator door is not closing properly, this is something anyone with basic skills can do.

Saw online info video explaining the possible cause and how to fix it. Ordered upper closing cam. Removed top hinge cover and hinge, removed door set it on a table. Removed old cam installed new cam tightened the retaining bolt put the door back on aligned it with freezer door and bolted it down snug. No more noise and it took less the half and hour.

Unplugged the fridge first then took the bottom panel off with a 1/4 inch nut driver. Disconnected the wiring & used my ratchet to reach the 3 screws that held the motor. Took me longer to clean the bottom of the fridge then the installation.

First I removed the three screws on the top hing of the refrigerator door so that we could lift it off the bottom hing. Socket wrench bits for my drill made that fast and simple. I lifted the door off the bottom hing to find the door closing plastic cam to be broken in several pieces. The hardest part was getting the cylinder shape piece that had broken off the cam out from inside the door. This way we would be able to insert the new piece. Needle nose pliers are the right tool for that job since the hole is small and the plastic just frays under force from regular pliers. It took some force and patience to get that out, but once all the broken pieces were removed, reassembly was quick and easy

Remove top henge, lift door off bottom henge, take off old plastic closer put on new one. Door works great now

Turn fridge off. Removed top hinge cover. Removed three screws in top hinge. Lifted hinge from door. Lifted door off bottom hinge. Place door on level surface and removed old cam with socket set. Installed new cam. Removed old cam from bottom hinge with socket set. Installed new cam. Cleaned bottom of door while had easy access. Placed door back on bottom hinge. Install top hinge and screws. Finished.