KRCA06XRSS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Simply remove the cover over top hinge and remove the three outer screws (Do NOT remove the center screw). Lift the door off the lower pivot pin. Turn door upside down and replace the upper cam and then the lower cam on the pivot at the bottom of the refrigerator case. Reintall the door by setting the door on the lower pivot and then reinstall the top pivot and cover. VERY easy and what a difference. No more "POP".

It's as easy as it can be, but the parts are not the right ones.

The holder is held in place with two screws. Once you have it unscrewed you can snap the old sockets out and replace them.

Ordered new sockets and presto, the lights work again.
They just snapped into the holder and the holder went up with two screws.
HINT: I did take a photo of the 4 electrical connectors AND labeled each one with a Sharpie 1, 2, 3, and 4 from left to right.

Undo a few screws on top of door, replace closing washers at bottom part of door, put door back on, and done. Easy. Just make sure you have the top and bottom closer washers that go together...2 parts.

I removed the flat panel inside freezer & fan blades not turning. I removed 2 1/4” screws, unplugged wires took fan motor out & put that fan blade on new fan motor. Plugged wires into new motor replaced 2 bolts, reinstalled flat panel plugged refrigerator in & reset temperature controls. The next day checked temperature and was all done.

Used u-tube video to review steps in making repair. Wires shorter than described but after looking at replacement sockets difference was clear.

Removed the cardboard baking on back. Unplugged the fan. Used 1/4 socket and removed the 3 nuts. Removed the fan. It is tight quarters. Take your time and the job will go fast.

I did some tests and determined that the tub-to-pump drain hose had a leak in it.I then looked on the web to find disassembly instructions. I have a stacked washer dryer combination in a very confined space. The repair involved disconnecting both the washer and dryer from the water, gas, electric and venting systems first, then unstacking the dryer from the washer (not so easy, it required a helper). The machine was then pulled out so I could get at the parts necessary to remove the outside components and sheet metal. Then, I disassembled the top, front and access panel in the back. The disassembly went very well. I got access to the drain hose assembly and removed it fairly easily. I ordered a replacement drain hose assembly and found that installing the large port of the assembly was very difficult. (The two other ports were easy.) After thinking about it, I tilted the machine back a bit so I could try it from the bottom. That worked fine.I then reassembled and tested the machine. No leaks. Good luck with yours!

Removed right hand door of side by side. Replaced both cams and put door back. All is well.

First I removed the three screws on the top hing of the refrigerator door so that we could lift it off the bottom hing. Socket wrench bits for my drill made that fast and simple. I lifted the door off the bottom hing to find the door closing plastic cam to be broken in several pieces. The hardest part was getting the cylinder shape piece that had broken off the cam out from inside the door. This way we would be able to insert the new piece. Needle nose pliers are the right tool for that job since the hole is small and the plastic just frays under force from regular pliers. It took some force and patience to get that out, but once all the broken pieces were removed, reassembly was quick and easy

Swapped out evaporator fan motor, solved the problem!

Remove replace door with new cams.

stopped the fan and noise stopped ordered fan motor and fan with interface cable. Using 1/4 inch nut driver to remove screws from motor bracket installed new motor and runs like new.

I suggest following video supplied with order confirmation perfect fit

DISCLAIMER: Technically, you should start by unplugging the frig and turning off the water supply. Though there is nothing on the my frig door that is either electrical or water related, the frig does keep trying to cooling an open area. For the short while I was doing the work, I just didn't want to bother with those precautions. Had I expected the work to take longer or been working on the FREEZER door I would have most certainly have done it "correctly." But I didn't do the freezer door so, first, remove everything from the refrigerator door storage shelves and the shelves themselves. Then lift off the cap that covers the hinge mounting plate on top of the frig. Remove the screws that holds the mounting plate in place. I used a cordless drill/driver with a 1/4" socket on the end but this could be done with a nut driver or socket wrench as well. Of course, take care not to let the door fall when removing the last screw. Then, lift the door off the bottom post that his holding it in place. The door is not too heavy and one person should not have a problem doing this but if you think it might be too heavy get someone to help with this. On the frig door there are no other connectors to be concerned with. NOTE: This procedure is similar for the freezer door but there are electrical and water line connections that need to be addressed before removing the door. Once the door is off the post, lay it down on a flat work service (I used the kitchen table with some towels spread underneath to prevent scratching either the table or the frig door.) There are two pieces that ought to be replaced. One cam on the door and one at the bottom post. Both are attached with a small screw that is removed easily with your nut driver/socket/drill driver. The bottom cam came offer fairly simply but sliding a thin, flat blade screw driver under it and prying it up and off. Replace this bottom cam with a new one and screw it back down. The door cam was, for me, the more difficult item. Removing the screw was easy enough but years of wear and brittleness led it to break off as I was trying to pry it out. I was able to use a small flat blade screwdriver to cave the old plastic post in all around the insert hole until I could get a good hold and pull it out with needle nose pliers. I was tempted to try to drill the old post out but there is a hex shape to the insert hole I was afraid of ruining. Once I got the old cam out, it was a simple matter to re-insert the new cam. Since both the door and lower cams are held on by screws there is only one way they can go back on. Once the cams are back in place, lift the door back onto the post and reattach the mounting plate to the top of the frig. Take some care that the door is level and parallel to the freezer door before completely tightening the mounting screws and replacing the cap that covers the plate. If you did shut off water and unplug the frig you should turn it back on and plug it back in. And do I really need to tell you to put the shelves and stuff back? :) The door should close on its own when close enough to the frig frame that the cam notches slide into place. If it hadn't been for the door cam being so brittle, this repair would have quite simple. Even at that, digging the old post out really wasn't hard but it did take some unexpected effort. If your refrigerator door is not closing properly, this is something anyone with basic skills can do.