KTRS25KDBL01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing

Removed the two screws holding the funnel in place...removed the old one and replaced it witht he new tubing...screwed screws back in and the jov was complete. It actually took longer to get it out of the sack than it did to put it together

I followed the simple steps outlines in the great video! Thanks

Unplug Dryer. Remove 2 5/16in hex screws from lower panel and remove panel.Remove 3 5/16in hex screws attaching lint duct. Remove 8 1/4in hex screws attaching blower housing. Remove 2 1/4 hex screws attaching thermostat to blower housing. Using adj. wrench on back of motor shaft nut to hold, loosen fan assy. w/ 7/8in socket. Remove 3 5/16in hex screws holding fan housing to motor mount. Remove 2 5/16in hex screws holding housing and motor mount to base floor. Push belt pulley wheel up enough to loosen belt and take off rear motor pulley. Motor w/mount can be slid out bottom for replacement [wires are layed toward front].Using 6in flat tip screw driver press down to unlock front & back motor bushing holddown clamps. Pinch electrical wire connector ends to pull off old motor. Remove and Install new motor, reversing steps. Belt replacement [suggested w/new motor] requires removal of 2 5/16in screws to lift/remove door w/front panel [disconnect door switch wires upper right rear corner].Remove 4 5/16 screws holding front bulkhead. Once bulkhead is pulled up and off, allow front end of drum to sag and rest IN PLACE [removal not required to slip old belt off and install new belt]. Note belt location point around drum. Slide new belt on. Reinstall bulkhead and panel/door [Don't forget door swich wires]. Adjust belt into position and push spring-held belt pully up to allow looping of new belt around rear motor belt pulley. Complete w/hand turning of drum to ensure belt is aligned and feeding properly. Reinstall lower fan housing/covers/thermostat,etc removed for motor installation.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

At first I went to a local part supplier and they didn't have it in stock but could order it for me for $55.00 plus $10.00 to ship it. I told them I would have to think about it. I went home and got on the computer and found your web site and was I shocked when I saw the same part listed for $6.98 and $7.00 to ship it. You guys saved me $50.00. The part arrived in two day and took 5 min. to install. I now have light in my refrigerator. Thank you.

Removed rear cover to see non-operating fan - removed three mounting screws on the motor that were a challenge to access. Swapped fan from old motor onto new motor - one threaded nut on the motor shaft. Spliced new fan wires into fan wires of the wiring harness and mounted with three self-tapping screws supplied with new fan motor. Replaced rear cover and plugged it in! Now the refrigerator cools like new (1981 model side-by-side Admiral)

Pulled out the refrigerator and removed the two panels from the rear of the refrigerator. Removed the fan held in by four screws and unplugged the connector. Soldered on the original connector, installed the fan to the motor and re-installed the unit into the refrigerator. Then blew out and vaccumed the condenser coils.

A very cold and brittle switch in a 17 year old fridge. Used screwdrivers to pry out with some resistance Had to cut the molded plug in half and split wires, because replacement contacts were farther apart than the original. End result, works great.

Replaced both since they came as a set. The only way it could have been any easier is if I had the wife do it. She had the remote this time. (•¿•)

disconnected el. power to fridge. pried out broken switch with small screwdriner and pulled out w/water pump pliers. installed new switch and pressed into opening.

I noticed that the refrigerator was having trouble maintaining temperature. Thought it might be time for new one until I found out that a new frig was $5k to $7K. Just happened to notice that the light switch didn't look quite right (was not sitting sqaure to the door). Once I pressed it it came loose. I then realized the the lights were staying on (50 watts of heating). Replaced the switch and the frig started working like new.

removed the 2 screws that held the panel in place, had to reach up and push on locking tabs to lower trhe front of the panel. was able to then push on the locking tab of the switch to release it. removed the wires, replaced them onto the new switch, and snapped the switch into place. the rest was reverse of the uninstall process.

Replaced fill tube

First I had to tilt the refrigerator on wood on the supports under the refrigerator, the wheels were easy to get to then I unscrewed the old ones and replaced them with the new better wheels. The old ones where plastic.