4KSRS22QDW01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

1. Put pieces of wood under door to support it.
2. Unscrew three screws holding door hinge.
3. Disconnect water line.
4. Unscrew screw holding each cam. One to door and one to hinge.
5 Replace cams.
6. Retrieve plate with threaded holes behind frame that the hinge attaches to.
7. Use thin philips screwdriver through the hinge bracket, shim, frame and screw plate to align it for the other two screws.
8. Replace all three hinge screws.
9. Connect water line fitting.
10. Remove wood for door support.
11. Check door for smooth movement and strong pressure when closed.

Piece of cake. It took me longer to remove the food from the freezer, remove shelves and back panel than to do the repair. I heard the fan making some noises so I replaced both the fan and defrost thermostat. I used the instructions submitted by a another customer. My 20+ year old fridge is like new now.

Starting at the bottom, with a flat blade screwdriver pry the front cover off the opening. Unplug the wire connector from the back, remove the cover plate holding the switches and light socket by pushing out on the plastic clips on each side. Use something like a bungie cord to hold it up out of the way. Carefully unsnap the clear plastic ice shoot from the push arm, next carefully unsnap the cover door from the push arm. Clean anything that needs cleaning (CLR works great on hard water deposits)
Install everything in reverse order, the cover door first, ice shoot next, switch plate, plug in the wire connector and snap the outside cover in place.

One front roller was flat on one side. Decided to replace all rollers at same time. Placed shims under unit and removed mounting screws for one front and one rear roller. With new rollers in place, I was able to level the refrigerator side to side, but unable to do so, front to back. Left the new front roller in place and reinstalled the old rear roller. Have decided to replace refrigeratorin the near future. This is one of my few repair failures!

We emptied out both sides, refrigerator and freezer, and followed the instructions in your video. We turned it off and disconnected the power. We took off the freezer door first. It made it much easier to get the shelves out and reach way back into the freezer. We removed the light and cover, then the ice auger motor. The back panel was easy to lift and remove. The wire assembly was a little hard to understand at first, but when we figured it out it was easy to remove and replace the bimetal defrost thermostat. We did check the video when we had the wire harness out, to make sure we got it right. We reassembled the freezer's inside parts and reattached the door. Before we turned the power back on, we scrubbed down the entire refrigerator. When we turned the power back on, the refrigerator and freezer were operating quietly - no sparks or explosions or shorting out - hooray! And the problems were solved.
The most important resource is your video. It looked like something we could do, and then ordered the parts. Our repair took a long time because we checked the video so many times. Thank you so much for the great information and the excellent parts. We could not have done it without you.

The Video on U tube was helpful. I have a side by side model and it was difficult to work in such tight quarters to attach the new part . I found that by removing the cable assembly it was much easier to attach (cut and crimp) the new part on the outside , then reinsert the assembly. The new part resolved my problem. Don't panic when you try and remove the cable assembly. Hope this is helpful.

I took out the old socket by moving a clip. Reattached the electrical wires, clicked in the socket and that was it.

Removed brokent tube fitting from the compression nut.
Removed two screws holding the fill tube. Removed and replaced the fill tube. Direct replacement, no cutting tube length. Reconnect water line to the new fill tube.......Done.

Used 2 Stainless bushings and a short screw to attach to side of door.

removed two screws and pulled part out of the unit. The local appliance store said they needed model and part # to try to identify and order the part. Found part select online, found the part immediately, ordered the part for $4.50 or so. Part was delivered in 2 days! Very easy installation and the part works perfectly. Thanks so much!

Just replaced the grill with a new one.

First empty the shelves on the refrig. door. Then removed the upper hing cover and removed the three screws holding the hinge to the body of the refrigerator. Lifted the door off the bottom hinge and placed it clear of the unit.
Inspected the bottom hinge and cleaned off the screw holding the closing cam, then with a nutdriver removed the screw holding the cam and removed the cam from the hinge. Installed a new cam closer, secured the cam with a screw. Hanged the door back on the lower hinge and re-installed the upper hinge. Job Complete!

Simlpy removed two screws to remove the old part. replaced the new part and put the two screws in. Job finished.

The plastic part that connects the fresh cold water to the ice maker in back of the fridge cracked.
Do to the fact that Whirlpool has the part stick out on the back top part of the fridge. So if you push the fridge just an inch too far back the plastic part will crack.
I ordered (The Part S&H)- came to about, $11.00.

1. Turned off the cold water under the sink.
2. In the back of the freezer section. I unscrewed the two screws that held the old broken part to the fridge.
3. I opened the freezer section and cleared out the top shelf till I could see the back of the fridge.
4. I removed the old plastic part by pushing & wiggling it about forward and it then extended out the back of the freezer side and then I pulled it out the back and it came out.
5. I slid the new replacement part in basically the reverse of step 4.
6. I connected the hose in the back. To the new, replacement plastic part, that fills the automatic ice tray with water.

7. Once finished I glued a small 2”x2” piece of wood next to the new part so the fridge will never get too close to the back wall so to never break that part that sticks out again.
Before just a small bump could break the part and water is everywhere and this leak could happen slowly at first and the next day what a mess.
Some fridges have this part recessed into the back of the fridge so this would never happen as my other fridge has.
Also, this might seem like more work then it was. It was very simple. I was scared I'd screw it up, but just did it step by step. If I had someone do it. It would have cost me a bundle.
It took more time to type this, then to do the work.
I had no instructions to follow, but again, was easer then I thought it would be.
I hope that this was helpful,
Jim Vourakis

First, I removed the 6 screws which hold the ice bin to the drum and the front cover. I then removed the screw which holds the door lever and bracket to the ice bin. Then I took the C clip and washer off the end of the auger to remove it from the housing. I removed the plastic nut to remove the auger drum from the auger shaft, being careful to place the blades on the table in the order they were removed. I then installed the new auger drum on the shaft and re-assembled everything in the reverse order. This was really easy for me because I had replaced the auger previously. (about 2 years ago)