KSUP25QDWH05 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

I took out the ice collection box and auger to get access to the three screws holding the ice maker assembly against the left wall of the freezer. You can use a screwdriver or a nut driver. I then unpluged the assembly and wiggled it loose from the water fill tube. I assumed that unplugging the unit would disable the water valve but I put a plastic tub under the fill tube just in case. I studied the assembly on the kitchen table for a few minutes before I disasembled it. After removing a snapon plastick cover I removed three or four screws on the gearbox and was able to pull and wiggle the parts apart. The heater contacts have rubber O rings so you have to be firm pulling the mould out of and into the gearbox mount. Make sure it is fully seated. On reassembly note that the ice kicking arm is notched so it fits into the gearbox only one way and it helps to have it in position when you screw the gearbox back on. I also found the plastic ice guide that fits on top of the mold a little awkward in snaping back together. Make sure its fingers space evenly with the ice kicking arms.

I removed the ice maker assembly from the freezer compartment (four nuts/ nut driver) and unplugged the wire harness. I discovered the nature of the problem and I went on the Internet to look for replacement parts expecting I'd have to buy the entire ice maker. When I found PartSelect.com I looked through the pictures of the parts available for my ice maker. I found the correct part quickly and easily. And having an acurate photo on the site, I was able to match all the key features of the mold I had with the one on the screen. I ordered the part, and installed it the day it arrived with just a Phillips screwdriver and a nut driver. It functions perfectly.

Switched Electric breaker to off. Removed all food and ice cube tray from freezer. Remove 4 screws on soleniod cover in rear of freezer. Removed two screws, two elec connectors from old soleniod and removed. Installed new soleniod. Reinstalled elec connectors and screws, ice cube tray and food. Turned breaker on . Ice maker worked properly.

nothing to repair, simply removed the old ice container and auger from the freezer and replaced with it with the new one.

Used a volt meter to determine if compressor was getting power. It was not. There were only two wires going to compressor so I partially unloaded frige and disassembled unit until I found the control circuit. I removed the control board and could not find any degraded connections so I thought it was most likely the relay installed on the board. I determined which connection was the normal power feed and decided that the relay should power one of two outgoing lines when it picked up. I jumpered from power to the most likely line and powered up the refrigerator and it worked. I cycled the breaker to maintain temperature until the new part arrived (about 2 days). I installed the new board in about 30 minutes and everything is working great. Looking forward to another 15 years with this refrigerator. It may be destined for the garage in a few years when we remodel the kitchen but it will make a fine shop frige!

The plastic lower door closing cam was worn down. Replacing it was very simple: remove the top door hinge by unscrewing three nuts; lift the door off the lower hinge; unscrew and remove the lower door hinge; screw the new plastic lower door closing cam on to the new door hinge; screw the new lower door hinge; lift the door back on to the lower door hinge; screw the top door hinge.

Pretty easy to replace..just take your time with the ice crusher but the teeth are labeled a..b..and c. This auger is steel so I should have no problems with this breaking. I received this item less than 24 hrs after I ordered it! On Christmas eve...Thanks to all of you

Removed four screws from ice maker motor/light support.Then unplugged electrical plug from side of freezer.Used two slip joint pliers to remove coupler from motor shaft. installed new coupler to shaft hand tight as will tighten as motor is run.Then reversed tear down order.
Ice dispenser works better than when we first got the refrigerator

I had read here from someone that fixed there shelf support stub and it was very loose, so I was trying to advoid that problem. It took me less then 5 minutes and my only tool was a pair of pliers. A short turn clock wise from the 9 on a clock to the 12 ( which is the top left corner ). then pull the broke shelf stub straight out. Put the new shelf support in the same way you took the old one out and turn counter clock wise 1/4 or from 12 back to 9 and you should have a tight fit. I hope this helped.

removed the three screw holding the broken unit - pulled off the old module.

Before I could install new module I had to loosen some fasteners on ice maker so I could turn shaft to align with new module.

Then push on new unit and three screws. Had tumbling ice in about an hour. My wife thinks I'm a hero. (I am)

Removed six screws from cover in the back of the freezer. Removed old fan . Removed power wires from old motor. Unclipped old motor from the mounting bracket. Replaced old motor and reversed the rest of the parts. Done

shut off water supply behind fridge then released trapped water pressure in the line at the dispenser. Locked off dispenser controls (push button switch). Removed nozzle retaining screw and pulled out nozzle approx. 3 in. to cut off tubing at black pipe so as to use the old pipe as a guide/pull (fish) for the new pipe by joining the end of the new nozzle to the cut and of the old pipe with electrical tape.Then pulled the old pipe from bottom of fridge while simultaneously feeding/pushing new pipe from top. I had to remove lower grate on fridge to access the pipe on bottom. Remaining coupling connection on bottom was done by hand to avoid stripping plastic coupling.

Turn off water supply line fridge. Removing front panel is a must to allow acces to spout and water line. Be careful not to crack front panel $90, it snaps in from the botton, slide a stiff putty knife along bottom edge and gently pry outward to remove. Remove 2 screws that hold spout in place, then cut water line right behind spout. The tricky part is fishing water line down through door. You need to splice new line to old with double sided screw or something with threads that will prevent the lines from pulling apart, then pull water line from bottom of door by hinge, very tight when pulling through hinge opening. You will need to remove vented dust cover at botton of doors to acces the water line. The line has a threaded coupling so unscrew and drain water then cut new line to length. There is a small metal insert in old line that needs to be removed and inserted into new line before attaching coupler. I could perform this in half the time now that I have done it once.

To get the coupler off the motor shaft I took two adjustable wrenches and slit the old coupler where it was cracked.The threads on the motor shaft were stripped closest to the motor.I took two thin washers and put them on the motor shaft so the new coupler would not turn down to where the threads on the motor were sripped.Since the threads on the coupler are left hand they keep the coupler tight as the motor turns the dispenser auger to dispense the ice.I was a bit difficult to unplug the wiring harness but got it after we used a screwdriver to keep the tab bent down until the harness was unplugged.

Initially I removed the cover to the auger and auger drum. Then the split ring locking washer had to be removed. I used a needle-nosed pliers and small screw-driver to pry that off. The auger arm could then be removed, and the auger blades removed. This proved to be the part that required the most patience. The blades need to removed and returned in their exact pattern. Someone else suggested taking a digital picture of them before removing them; this is a good suggestion that I failed to do. Once the blades are returned, all the other parts can be replaced in reverse order. Put the screws back in, and you are finished.