KRFC90100B0 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Work was done by service tech. I ordered the arm for my mom to save time when tech came back to do the job correctly.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!

I found the instructions on line which seemed very simple but I soon learned otherwise. The instructions say to remove the water line and then firmly pull the fill tube out as it is a tight fit. I couldn't get the tube out and ended up removing the lower freezer door/tray, the upper tray and the icemaker where I found the water had frozen solid in the end of the tube. I used a hair dryer to melt the ice then I could easily remove the tube. After several attempts to install the new tube I finally inserted a 3/8" OD flex tube thru the passage then I was able to slide the new fill tube over this and get it in place. I then reinstalled the icemaker, upper tray and the door/tray assembly. Turned the water on the check for leaks then plugged the unit back in and all is working well.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Bought new cap.

Disconncted power, pulled plug on disconnect, loosened 3 ice maker attach screws, removed ice maker. carefully removed old broken part, to understand reasembly. Reinstalled new water fill & bearing part.. hung icemaker and tightened attach screws. Reattached electrical plug.. turned on power, it all worked. .took about 45 min to remove, 15 min to reinstall. Right tools needed re disassembly AND ASSEMBLY

I had put off dealing with this repair thinking it would be too complicated and expensive. Was I fooled! I removed the vegetable drawers, shelf and pantry drawer. Then I removed two small bolts using a socket and power drill (very carefully). The entire piece just came right out. There's a small screw holding the air regulator onto the back wall of the refrigerator. This is all connected to the pantry cap, so it has to be removed as well. Once both pieces were out, I just carefully separated the air flow regulator from the borken end cap, attached the new piece, and then bolted/screwed everything back into place. Very easy and inexpensive!

I am not handy; but the repair was really not difficult. I removed three screws that held the end cap. I removed the slide and the tempature control. Next, I assembled the slide and tempature control - a bit of time to figure out how it worked. Once that was done, I re-attached the end cap with three screws. Pretty easy, and my wife is happpy. BTW, the part arrived prompty and in great shape. I am very happy!

Put new one on matching the sctew feet and design of the grill

Removed old ejector arm and installed new part.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Removed the drawer and shelf above to get access to drawer slide. Removed slide with socket wrench. Also need to remove, then reinstall the arm that is attached to right side end cap that adjusts the temperature flow into the pantry drawer. Reattaching it was not obvious so it took awhile to figure out how it fit. Written instructions would have helped. The part did not come with anything.
This is the second end cap that has required replacing. The first was on the left so did not involve the temperature adjustment arm.

Needed ice maker bucket for extra fridge. Part came the next day, and worked perfectly.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

I removed the crisper drawers and glass shelf and set them aside. Used a nut driver (maybe 5/16") to unbolt the old endcap as well as the back piece which it was attached to. I had to study the damper system a bit so I could figure out how to put it back together, took some quick snaps with the digital camera to be sure I wouldn't flub it. I transferred all of the misc plastic bits which make up the damper system into the new endcap and bolted it back in.