KRFC90100B0 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Simply cut the water tube on both sides of connector and push in the new one.

Replaced gallon door bucket

My wife snapped the part in place in 2 seconds.

Snapped in new part

Very easy to order from parts select. Took seconds to replace.

Looked at the new part to determine what I would need to remove the old part. It was very easy to figure out. I removed the old end cap by taking out the screws. Once the screws were out I popped the side of the end cap off. There is a horizontal piece along the back wall that is connected to the end cap. On the left side of this piece of plastic there is a small tab that clicks into the back wall. On the right hand end cap there is a sliding lever which controls the air in the deli tray. This control is made of plastic and appears to be pretty fragile> By gently bending this lever I was able to remove the control lever and install it on the new end cap. In all it took me about 15 minutes to complete the entire job. Very easy.

I followed the remove and replace instructions in the Part Sect video when I ordered the seal. Pulled out the old seal by hand and installed the new seal. No tools needed, very easy. Took 10 minutes at most.

I brought you the exploded view of the crisper parts on your website and proceeded accordingly. Besides the three nuts holding the end cap to the frig interior wall the temperature adjustment linkage had to be disassembled on reassemblied on the new replacement end cap. Plastic linkage parts present the problem of breakage, so one must be careful during the disassembly process. Some other type of fasteners for the linkage assembly (screw and nut, ball and socket) would be prefereable. All and all, its a machine. Wtith exploded view, what could go wrong?

I removed the right side endcap and rear thermostat piece behind the pull out drawer. It was fairly quick, 3 screws on the exterior of the end cap and one screw holding in the drawer thermostat. The worst part was getting the thermostat control that connects the drawer thermostat control to the rear thermostat. After playing with the control rod I was able to to snap it in successfully to the endcap with the proper rod connection. The rear thermostat goes in first, then the endcap. Quick and easy. For $23 it would have cost over $150 to call a repair guy ($120 call charge plus parts). Thanks.

Popped off the control panel at the top behind the door. Found the thermistor and replaced it, cutting the wires and splicing the new one in. Immediately the warm section of the refrigerator was getting below freezing temperature readings, so the cooling vent was not opening. I put the old one back on and the temperature readings went back to being accurate. So this was not the problem. I believe now that the fan somehow is not blowing enough cold air up. So now I'll probably buy a fan motor and maybe a blade and try that. Otherwise the computer module I priced at $500 so I hope it isn't that. I replace the fan motor a few years ago already.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

When the gasket is delivered it will be folded. You will need to unfold it and leave it on a flat surface for several days. Keep it as square as possible, and heat the kinked portions with a hair dryer on high heat and slow fan while molding kinked portions with your hands for 30 to 60 seconds at a time. Do that 2-3 times per day. When it looks 90% uniform with the non kinked portions, you can install it. Installation takes less than 10 minutes. Clean the metal edge of the freezer well. I recommend taking the door annd frame off (This is remarkably easy. THe door and frame pretty much lifts up and out after you hold the rail clips inward) because the lower edge is so close to the floor. The just pulll off the old gasket. There are no screws or clips. Starting in any corner, press new gasket into place. Go around the perimeter several times to make sure it is pushed in fully and evenly. Then reinstall the door and frame.

Cut old fill tube into pieces, removed and replaced with new tube. Extremely easy.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!