KSRI25FNBL00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Door quit closing on it's own......

** Order the following from www.partselect.com

Lower Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS323495

Upper Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS327641




1. 1/4 drive socket and standard socket
2. On top of door .... remove black plastic bracket cover on top of hinge
3. Have someone hold the frige door in place
4. On top of door .... remove 3 screws that hold the hinge onto the frige..... at this time, door will be loose
5. Lift door up and off the bottom hinge.
6. sit door on the ground. Tilt door at an angle for access to the "cam"
7. On frige, at the bottom, use socket to remove one screw that holds the old "bottom" cam in place..... then replace with new one.
8. While door is tilted, use socket to remove one screw that holds the "top" cam in place.
9. You will need to gently pull this cam out.... shouldn't take too much effort though.
10. Replace with new cam.
11. put door back on hinge
12. At top of frige, reinstall 3 screws
13. Reinstall plastic cover.
14. Voila, you're done

Thanks PartSelect !

With socket wrench un-screwed the 3 screws and pulled out the ice maker assembly.

Pulled off white plastic end-cap and noticed the plastic gear disk had snapped off (sub part # R0167202)

However, it is all-one-part of the motor assembly unit # w10190935 (part # PS2341896) which must be ordered as a complete part.

Unscrewed the motor assembly (3 screws) with phillips head screw driver.

Screwed in the new unit.

Placed ice maker back into location and tightend the bacing srews.

1 hour later ice was falling!

after ordering ice dispencer repair kit, and removing the outer parts found out that the problem was the ice dispencer door shell . this part is no longer available.It seems to me that if whirlpool wants to have return customers they have to stand behind the product. Well I made a L bracket and drilled a hole to to recieve the spring keeper and glued this to the housing and used a 3 1/12"finishing nail as the pin all works fine

I researched everything that I heard and saw on this forum. I realized that I was seeing and hearing the same problems that everyone was having. So instead of being an idiot and taking the fridge to the curb, I decided to spend 86.00 including shipping/handling on 2 small parts (start relay and capacitor). Best money I have spent. Saved me over $1000.00+ THANK YOU!!!! The 2nd best thing was that the parts came in the next day. I didn't expect it for approx 3-4 days. Excellent website and excellent service!!!

First called the Sears repairman out (big mistake). I was worried it was something with the water line, but he ran some diagnostics and got it working. It did make one batch of ice. Cost $140 for the visit. The "fix" was short lived, since it immediately quit working again. After doing lots of reading online, all I could gather was that the main wheel inside was out of alignment/sync. Sears has a 90-day warranty on repairs, so we called them back. Of course, their warranty only covers their previous repair only, but at least we wouldn't get charged the $55 fee just to have them come out. Second repairman said there was a broken part inside the icemaker assembly, and it would cost over $320 to fix this time ($230 for the part, $70 for labor, plus tax). We politely declined. Found a whole new icemaker assembly from PartSelect for $68. Once it arrived, it was literally just three screws/bolts holding in the entire assembly, unplug the wire chassis, just like a computer motherboard, insert new assembly, plug in wire assembly, put screws back in. Works like a champ...

Just turn old filter counterclockwise, pulli it out, insert the new filter from "Part Select" clockwise and WALLLA!!!!...we have fresh clean water.That easy a caveman can do it.

Patience is a virtue. The kit really works. 1st, lift the front plate of the ice dispencer by placing a flat head screw driver into the two slots at the bottom of the panel. When the panel is lifted up slightly at the bottom, push up on the panel to remove it. Careful not to break panel and the wires attached. Next, remove the wiring panel by removing the two screws on left and right sides. Then, unplug the old black ice cover from the wiring panel (this is the heating plug that you will nolonger need). Next, remove the parts and replace them with the parts in the kit, noting where each part comes from, etc. All parts in the kit are necessary and should be used. Some of the replacements need trial and error. Patience will be important. Also needed is a person that loves to solve problems, especially because the kit does not come with instructions. But the kit definitely works!

unplugged fridge, turned off water supply, disconnected water supply line (towel to catch drainage). remove cardboard lower panel from back of fridge. remove 2 bolts holding existing water inlet valve assy to fridge. Disconnect 2 electric plugs from assy. water lines disconnect using push/pull method (mark where they go). If any water tube line has any surface imperfections trim off a small length of line using a razor knife (cut tubing perpendicular (or "square" )on the end. I had to remove small unused part from the new water inlet valve assy. Insert the 3 water lines to the correct spots: push them on,fully, give a tug to make sure they are connected fully. Reattach the 2 electrical plugs.Bolt the unit back in place. I connected the water & plugged it in, filled about 10 glasses of water and made sure an ice cycle ran, to check for leaks (none found). I cleaned off some of the dust on the back of the fridge, reattached the cardboard lower piece. and listened to the sweet sound of Ice filling, and not my wallet emptying to the service man!!

I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.

First checked to make sure the water reserve line inside fridge wasn't frozen (soaked coil at back of fridge in a container of warm water for 10 min). That seemed fine and icemaker was still working so assumed that portion of the water inlet valve feeding water line wasn't working. Video on PartSelect website showing how to replace the valve was spot on and gave me confidence to install myself. Part arrived within two days and installation was done in a snap exactly as shown in video. All the lines & wire harnesses fit perfectly, water & ice working great, and I couldn't be more pleased.

After cutting supply line to ice maker and using syringe to back feed ice maker discharge outlet- I learned that there was no freeze blockage in supply.
Using nut driver, the valve was removed and electrical and water lines removed and reinstalled on new valve.
Reinstallation of assembly using nut driver completed the whole repair in less than 5 minutes.
The part was a perfect match.

Thanks

Motor from Part Select was 185W instead of 260W that came out of unit. After a bit of searching online, I found out the 260W had been obsoleted for lack of torque when harvesting ice.

Removal instructions: Unplugged fridge. Then I removed the screw on the bottom right rear of the unit. Then removed the plastic cover that covered the power connector. Pulled out the icemaker by pushing in the tab on the bottom left middle of the icemaker unit and pulling unit toward me. Unplugged the connector on the back right hand side. Removed the cover on the left side covering motor. Took out 3 philips screws and removed old motor with broken axle that spun freely (the source of the clicking noise). Put new motor in aligning harvest arm (the thing with the fingers) and did reverse of removal. Then plugged fridge back in and it started a harvest and the next morning I had a half tub of ice.

The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace holding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.

Did the diagnostics with the blinking light and couldn't decide what was bad....so ordered the control boards and the module motor assm. also. Turned out that it was the control boards and would suggest that future customers order that part first...if it isn't that then get the module and motor assm......these guys ship really fast and the prices are literally half of what Sears would charge, not to also mention the cost of their service man to walk through your door...OUCH!

Remove the front panel strip where the temperature adjustment lights show, use a thin screw driver to pot the strip out along the top. Use a nut driver to remove the control panel which contains the light, two bolts on the under side, two bolts on the front after the panel strip was removed. The control panel will hang down enough with the wires attached to allow access to the thermostat. Use a Phillips screw driver to remove the side cover where the temperature probe runs along the left hand side to the unit, one screw. You will find the temperature probe inside plastic tubing running to the back of the unit where it is wrapped around a Styrofoam holder with three plastic retainer clips on the top and bottom. Unplug the thermostat from its electrical connection. You may want to unplug the unit’s wall plus as this is 110 volt connection. Remove the two screws holding the thermostat to the plastic control panel; remove the fiber optic connection to the light strip that runs across the top of the thermostat. Remove the temperature probe from the 6 clips and pull the entire unit out. Remove the plastic tube from the old temperature probe and slide it over the probe from the new thermostat. The probe is approximately 26 inches long and you must take care not to crimp it as you slide it in the plastic tubing(warm the plastic tube with a hair dryer to reduce stiffness at the bend). Plug the wires into the new thermostat and reassemble.