KSSC36FTS00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

Bi-metal defrost thermostat tested bad, so replaced. To remove back freezer panel on this model, remove top left and right shelf pegs (use a screw driver). This will let back freezer panel slide up and out.

Control board, located in metal box above the inverter board had a bad 200uF electrolytic capacitor (bulging top) and 12v relay. Replaced all 5 electrolytic capacitors on the board and all 4 relays.

Works good.

First shut off water supply and unplug power. Unscrew icemaker assembly from side wall with 3 screws. Remove front cap and you can clearly see module. Unscrew and remove module ( only three screws). Install new module and revers procedure to finish up. Ice was ready in just a few hours. Video provided by this site was right on and left no questions.

The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.

Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

We popped out the new filter and replaced the cap with a twist. It was so easy. It is important to vaccum the front of the refrigerator for accumulating dust.

1. Removed the icemaker door
2. Removed the two screws from the underside of the icemaker unit
3. Removed the slide-on plastic cover that protects the power cable connector
4. Removed the icemaker unit
5. Removed the two screws from the control unit
6. Pulled the control unit from the icemaker unit
7. Installed the new control unit and reinstalled the icemaker assembly

A repairman wanted to charge me $250 to do what I did in about 20 minutes for about $120.

After taking apart the ice maker, the only obvious replacement was the motor assembly. I check various Internet sites and found the best price at PartSelect.

I removed the ice maker from the freezer after turning off the ice make switch. Removal was easy with only one screw holding in the entire assembly. The ice maker has rails that allow it to slide in and out like a drawer.

After R/R the motor assembly and returning the ice make to the freezer all that remiand was to see if it worked.

Within 10 minutes I had the wonderful sound of water filling the ice maker tray. Within 30 minutes of that, ICE!!!

Shopping, ordering and shipping of the part was fast and efficient. I'll go with PartSelect for all my future appliance needs.

Unpluged the refrigerator, removed the burnt out switch by unpluging it, plugged the new one in re installed the switch into cover. Plugged in refrigerator replaced cover. Done. Easy as one two three

Followed on line video

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

These are instructions are for replacing the see-through covers (manufacturer part number WPW10131132) on the two upper door utility bins.

First it is easiest to remove the entire bins rather than hold open the fridge doors while you work.

There are two plastic studs on the bin body designed to fit through the holes in the bin cover. The tips of these studs will have to be simultaneously compressed with pliers (thus two sets of needle nose pliers) in order to slide the old cover past the studs to remove. Unless you have three hands, you will need another person to slide the cover left past the studs while you are handling both sets of pliers. Although the studs are pretty flexible, be careful not to break them off in the process. Once the cover is past the studs you can pull in free.

installing the new cover is easy. Since the studs are tapered, simply align with the holes on both ends of the the cover with the studs and apply pressure to the right. The cover will slide over the tapered studs and lock into place.

Once the new covers are installed, simply reinstall the complete bin back on the refrigerator door. Just push and snap in the tracks on the refrigerator door interior body.

I pulled off the panel covering the part in the freezer cut and stripped the wires. Used crimper and connectors put the new part on put the wires band panel back on and plugged the refrigerator back in. Everything works just fine now.

Freezer worked great, refrigerator stopped getting cold and lots of ice formed around the condenser on the bottom of the refrigerator.
First I had a serious ice issue, ice build up around the bottom of the refrigerator and all through the cold air vents, condenser and cooling fan. I unplugged of the fridg and let defrost over night. I also took all the cold air vents out and cleaned them.
Then I followed the switch install video very simple switch install. Now the Refrigerator works Great nice and cold.