KRFC300ESS10 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove back cover
Remove drip thing from top to tray in the back
Remove fan motor assembly. This is squirrely. Top bends towards you, bottom pushes in to the unit. Not fun.
CAREFULLY remove copper tube that rests on drip tray
Remove tray - there are clips in the front that get released by screwdriver
Clean up
Replace new tray
Replace copper tube
Play with fan motor assembly till it fits. It doesn't look like it's gonna work until it does. See youtube videos on this.
Replace drip thing from top to tray - I forgot this one the first time.
Replace cover.

This is a simple, but squirrely, repair. Right on the border of easy (because so few tools and steps) and A Bit Difficult because of the patience required.

Unscrew decorative plastic cover. Unsnap old damper assembly and disconnect wire connector. Snap in the new assembly and plug in the wires. Replace decorative cover.

Received gasket. Checked color and size. Because this unit is 33 inches wide one door is 3 inches narrower than the other. Removed shelves from door to provide more room to work. Took 15 seconds to pull out old seal and 1 minute to install the new one. Checked to make sure center sealing flap were on the center side of door. Started in upper corners, worked my way around the perimeter pressing in in with my fingers.
Took longer to R&R and wash shelves than to replace door seal.
VERY EASY

I brought you the exploded view of the crisper parts on your website and proceeded accordingly. Besides the three nuts holding the end cap to the frig interior wall the temperature adjustment linkage had to be disassembled on reassemblied on the new replacement end cap. Plastic linkage parts present the problem of breakage, so one must be careful during the disassembly process. Some other type of fasteners for the linkage assembly (screw and nut, ball and socket) would be prefereable. All and all, its a machine. Wtith exploded view, what could go wrong?

Remove lower freezer door from mounting frame (4 screws). Remove inner shelving and shelving brackets, Total of six screws, three on each side on lower brackets and 4 screws, 2 on each side on upper brackets. Remove ice cube maker (4 screws). Remove thermometer frame from back cover and slide thermometer out of frame. Remove 4 screws from back cover and remove cover. Slide thermometer through hole in back cover. Remove 4 screws from evaporator motor housing. Gently pull plastic fan off of motor shaft. Remove motor from housing and install new motor. Reinstall all parts in the order removed.

Looked at the new part to determine what I would need to remove the old part. It was very easy to figure out. I removed the old end cap by taking out the screws. Once the screws were out I popped the side of the end cap off. There is a horizontal piece along the back wall that is connected to the end cap. On the left side of this piece of plastic there is a small tab that clicks into the back wall. On the right hand end cap there is a sliding lever which controls the air in the deli tray. This control is made of plastic and appears to be pretty fragile> By gently bending this lever I was able to remove the control lever and install it on the new end cap. In all it took me about 15 minutes to complete the entire job. Very easy.

I removed the right side endcap and rear thermostat piece behind the pull out drawer. It was fairly quick, 3 screws on the exterior of the end cap and one screw holding in the drawer thermostat. The worst part was getting the thermostat control that connects the drawer thermostat control to the rear thermostat. After playing with the control rod I was able to to snap it in successfully to the endcap with the proper rod connection. The rear thermostat goes in first, then the endcap. Quick and easy. For $23 it would have cost over $150 to call a repair guy ($120 call charge plus parts). Thanks.

Access back of unit, lower left corner. Remove wire capacitor retention clip. Unplug cold capacitor, plug in replacement, reinstall wire retention clip, test.

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

Very easy to fix . It was harder to empty the contents out or the refrigerator than to repair . The diagrams on this site were very helpful in identified the part. and it was delivered in 5 days.

Easily pulled out the gaskets off the refrigerator doors and replaced them with the new ones. The installation video was also a big help in the process.

Snapped in new part

I got really tired of taking food out covered in icicles and stabbing a huge block of ice out of the bottom. Turns out all he needed was a little wheel with cogs and I looked up the sticker model number on this site and clicked the part of the fridge. So simple, wish I would’ve done it sooner.

Remove the grate at the back of the refrigerator. Remove the existing drawn tube. Replace the exiting drain tube with the updated drain tube. Check to see if water was draining properly. Replace the grate. Sit back and have a beer.

Replaced two original crisper drawers with 2 new drawers; replaced broken end cap which required the removal of a few bolts and screws. The replacement parts were identical matches--a huge relief. The interior of the fridge looks like new. This follows upon not being able to get the parts directly from the manufacturer.