KTRS25KGWH01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Really easy. Turned the water off, unplugged the fridge and took off a few bolts and swapped the valve out for new. It was basically plug and play. The ice maker started working its next cycle.

I was changing a defective bulb and somehow the hot lead for the socket got grounded, and arched. This made the socket defective. I simply took out the defective socket and replaced it with the new one I ordered. Working fine now. PCH

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

Used online resources to deteremine that it was either the icemaker not telling the valve to open or the valve no opening so ordered both and started with the valve (cheaper part). Turn off the water, removed the mounting screws, disconnected the plug, removed the water line (used the wet vac to suck up water while it leaked out). and disconnected the inlet line. Reconnected everything in reverse order but left unmounted until sure it worked, turned water on and waited.

removed old ice machine and installed new one
very easy but the old connections were in place and made for easy install

Noticed fan wasn't running, remo ved, verified that it wasn't a sensor, ordered new part, installed new part...works like new. Everything is cold again!

This water valve is slightly different from the original on my older GE refrigerator (i.e., the mounting bracket is larger and oriented differently, thus doesn't fit). To still use the part, I first tried mounting the new valve on my original bracket, but this resulted in a sideways mounting of the solenoid/magnet valve. This orientation generated a slower and noisier water pumping action (the solenoid/magnet valve is assisted by gravity, so it needs be installed with the top of the solenoid facing up). Then I opted to use the original valve plastic housing and bracket and switch out all rubber seals and gaskets and the enitire solenoid/magnet assembly from the new one. This worked like brand new.

This was an easy fix. The first thing you need to do is shut off the water to the ice maker. Then unplug refrigerator. Then take the panels off the back of the refrigerator to get to the water valve. The valve is at the bottom left hand corner. Take the inlet hose off and the outer hose off of the valve. Take the screws out to remove the valve from the panel. Replace the valve with the new one and hook up the hoses again. Make sure to tighten securely so that you do not have any leaks. Put everything back together and plug refrigerator in. Turn on water slowly and check for leaks. If no leaks, push refrigerator back and wait for the ice to begin. Piece of cake!!

A very cold and brittle switch in a 17 year old fridge. Used screwdrivers to pry out with some resistance Had to cut the molded plug in half and split wires, because replacement contacts were farther apart than the original. End result, works great.

Removed old water inlet valve and replaced same with the new one. Installation was easy, parts came quickly, and I now have ice cubes again. Thanks for your help.

disconnected el. power to fridge. pried out broken switch with small screwdriner and pulled out w/water pump pliers. installed new switch and pressed into opening.

1. Removed part from packaging. 2. Cleaned part with foodsafe cleaners. 3. Rinsed thoroughly. 4. Dried thoroughly to prevent frost. 5. Placed bin in freezer. 6. Turned on ice maker. 7. Waited. 8. Discarded first batch to clear supply line. 9. Waited. 10. Enjoyed ice. 11. Provided these inductions.

After disconnecting the electricity. I followed the instructions as indicated in the "HOW TO" article on the website. I used a steel putty knife and pried the light switch out of its retaining hole. I worked the right side the most since this is the side with the retaining clip. After I removed the switch I transferred the two electrical outlets to the new switch and easily snapped it into place. Engaged the electric power and tested the switch.

removed the 2 screws that held the panel in place, had to reach up and push on locking tabs to lower trhe front of the panel. was able to then push on the locking tab of the switch to release it. removed the wires, replaced them onto the new switch, and snapped the switch into place. the rest was reverse of the uninstall process.

Pry old switch and pull out. Disconect two wires. Put two wires on new switch, must be inserted right and connections not loose. Put switch in, making shure wies do not come off and snap in place