KSSP48QTS02 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

With instructions from PartSelect.com this was an easy fix. I tested the motor's electric as suggested and was satisfied that the Motor Module (WPL W10190935) would correct the problem. UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR! I popped the outside plastic cover off to expose the unit. (1) remove the wire unit that runs the length of the cube maker (2) remove the 3 screws that secure the motor unit and carefully remove it (3) carefully line up the new unit, slide in place and replace the 3 screws (4) install the wire that was removed in step(1). Connect electric to the refrigerator and wait about 2 hours for your first ice cubes. PartSelect.com is the ONLY supplier that you will ever need! Great instructions and trouble shooting suggestions. Shipping is incredibly fasssst! Customer contact is awesome. Don't hesitate to buy from them! Saved me about $200.! Good luck....Tom in SC

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Followed on line video

Removed ice maker from fridge. Removed motor assembly (3) screws on cover, and (2) screws inside. Removed mold (3 screws on bottom) and replaced everything in reverse order. Note: Turned ice maker off for several days while waiting for parts. The water line on this particular model will freeze inside the freezer if ice isn't made for several hours/days. You will have to defrost to begin making ice again.

Starting at the bottom, with a flat blade screwdriver pry the front cover off the opening. Unplug the wire connector from the back, remove the cover plate holding the switches and light socket by pushing out on the plastic clips on each side. Use something like a bungie cord to hold it up out of the way. Carefully unsnap the clear plastic ice shoot from the push arm, next carefully unsnap the cover door from the push arm. Clean anything that needs cleaning (CLR works great on hard water deposits)
Install everything in reverse order, the cover door first, ice shoot next, switch plate, plug in the wire connector and snap the outside cover in place.

removed the LED covers on both sides of the freezer, unplugged each circuit board, plugged in both circuits, replaced the LED covers, job complete, making ice

Sorry I didn't do the repair but my husband did. It took him about an hour and a half. He did have to take the main part of the ice maker out of the fridge and take a couple of pieces off t oslide the tabs from the stripper arm into place. It was great. Fixed the icemaker for $22.00 dollars with no service fee. I can't imagine what they would have charged me.

Had to widen screw access hole in motor frame enough to use the phillips bit with my 12V impact driver. That worked perfectly. It took an extra two hours of trying to break the screw free without stripping it and figure out what to do when it wouldn't budge. Once I got the screw out the fix went quick and the ice maker now works great. If you have a coroded screw go straight to the impact driver.

Replacement of parts was simple. But there are three main reasons that ice maker quits: door sensors stop working; ice maker, or it control system, stop working, or the coil controlling when water is released into the ice maker stops working. It was easy to replace the door senors; repairman replaced the ice maker and control board, which is located in one end of ice maker, but it ended up being the coil or simply a frozen water outlet into the ice maker that stopped the system from from working. The first thing you should do is to make sure that the water outlet into the icemaker is not frozen - use a hair dryer to melt frozen ice in the outlet - don't melt the plastic outlet with high heat. If the system still does not work go to this: look at red sensor on door to the the right. If it blinks twice in a couple of second with a time out and then repeats over and over, close the door on the receiving sensor on the left hand side of the casing and if the red light comes on steady then the sensor is working properly. So, now you have the coil that turns the water on and off or the water maker itself that can be bad. It will be one of these that are at fault, but not both. Call a repairman.

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

Easy repair, unplug the fridge and then remove the 3 screws on each side of the freezer holding the emitter and receiver. Swap the boards and re-install. Takes less than 10 minutes.

Broken plastic part in motor assembly. Very simple to replace. Sears wanted $322.00!!!

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.