KTRP20KDAL02 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the back lower cover, behind the fridge. Uncliped the wiring. Removed the motor, (3 Screws).I did check the new motor before removal of the old one, to verify the older motor was the problem. After removal of the fan & motor. Removed the fan and placed it on the new motor, three screws later, plugged up the wiring, (I didn't changout the wiring, and the Refrigerator is good as new.

followed the video instruction from part select web site

Removed items and defrosted freezer. I then removed metal shelves, ice maker, bottom sliding tray and false bottom, freezer back, and light bulb with wire track. Cut wires to defrost thermostat and spliced in new thermostat. Reassembled shelves, back, etc., in reverse order. Old thermostat tested "open" in hot and cold water with Ohm meter tester.

Had to take everything out and defrost the whole refrigerator dry up and than took back off at bottom and the one covering the Bimetal. The hole was plugged so we took the compressor and blew it and finally got all the ice out before we put on the Bimetal. This is the 4th time we fixed this and I don't know why it won't last longer than 8/9 months. The warrenty is for a year and so far I have gotten 2 refunds thank you!

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

Since the defrost timer turns the cooling functions on and off for each defrost cycle if seemed the most likely problem. That was confirmed by manually advancing the timer with a screw driver and the cooling functions would resume and run until the next defrost cycle (every 8 hours or so). The repair itself was to swap out the timer which took five minutes with a #2 phillips screw driver and a 1/4" nut driver. Once the timer was removed from the cover plate there's a simple plug-in connector to remove from the old and plug into the new timer. Two machine screws hold the timer in place behind the cover plate. Be sure switch the power off on the compressor cabinet before removing the cover plate.

The repair was simple. Unplug the refrigerator, unplug the power connector from the fan and remove 3 screws. I removed the fan blade clip with the pliers and cleaned it off. Reversed the process, cleaned all the dust out with my shop vac and all works perfectly now. It took longer to pull the fridge out of it's normal position than to perform the repair. Every day it continues to work is one more day I don't spend $2000 or more on a replacement.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

After I did the prep work of removing the items inside the door the project took less than 15 minutes to get the repair job done. 1. Remove the door by taking off the top hinge cover on top of the door, remove the three screws with a socket wrench, remove the plastic gasket under the hinge, left door up and off the lower hinge pin 2. Place the new bracket on the freezer door hinge pin, flange side down 3. I had to place an extra spacer washer, which I had on hand, on top of the hinge bracket 4. Replace the door on the bottom hinge pin 5. My husband held the door in place as I reattached the top of the door with the plastic spacer and 3 screws I had removed 6. Replaced the plastic gasket and hinge cap on the top 7. With the door reattached, I removed the existing screw under the door directly below the new hinge bracket, lined up the hinge bracket to the screw hole and attached it in place. Much to my surprise and pleasure, the door swings perfectly, stopping where it should with the door shelves loaded! Thank you PartSelect for having a part that would work for my 16 year old refrigerator even though I had to add a washer shim to make the new part as thick as the original.

I just removed icemaker, bottom and back panel cover, remove the old thermostat, cut the wires, connect the new one and replace all covers and ice maker.So far is working perfect, no more water mess inside or on the floor, and my food is not frozen anymore, thanks a lot for your help and your trouble shooting help me to figerout what was wrong, thanks again for save me a lot of money

Cut support and replaced. Easy

This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.

UN plugged refrigerator,waited 24 hours to let defrost,removed panels,cut out old Bi metal Defrost thermostat,wired in new thermostat,reassembled freezer,plug back in,working great

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.