1069500720 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I pulled off the panel covering the part in the freezer cut and stripped the wires. Used crimper and connectors put the new part on put the wires band panel back on and plugged the refrigerator back in. Everything works just fine now.

I was able to transfer my old ice maker from my old Roper Refrigerator/Freezer into my new Whirlpool Sidekick Freezer. Everything transferred directly except for the water fill tube. I ordered one on line and simply cut it to the right length, removed the cover plate inside the freezer compartment and the little sticker from the outside. Inserted tube and fastened in place with two screws (not provided but was able to use the screws that were in the holes inside the freezer before the ice maker went in. Works great. By not buying the ice maker with the freezer I saved a hundred bucks or so.

Removed all ice from bin and let it thaw. Removed all screws and nuts from the front to release the ice crusher and the long bit. Had already printed out all the advice from others on the on-line section about taking photos and not getting the crusher blades out of order. Removed the clip with needle nose pliers and the washer. Removed the blades laying them down in exact order and direction they came off. Put on the new auger drum and reversed everything. It was nice to know that the plastic screw that held the clip is a reverse thread, otherwise we might have broken the dang thing. Too bad there aren't instructions with the part when you get it instead of just a diagram. All-in-all, it went well.

Very easy to order from parts select. Took seconds to replace.

I took out the ice bin and in the back where the auger meets the ice bin I had to replace the small plastic piece to hold the auger in place when using the automatic ice maker. It was an easy fix.

just slide the new compartment in

I could not have done it without reading the repair story about this same issue. I DID take a digital picture before taking the blades out and that was helpful. NO ONE, except in the repair story, ever mentioned the reverse screw to get the blades off. It simply made it possible for me.
I fixed it!!!! I am a 69 year old widow who loves crushed ice, so I am happy!!
The PartSelect service is great!

we read on this site how to run the tube down thru the door but we had some problems. we used tape to put together the old and new hose to snake it down and the old hose pulled apart from the new and was stuck in the hole at the bottom of the door. my husband propped up the door and took the bottom hinge off to get to the hole where the tape was stuck and I was able to get a hold of it to finish pulling it through. I think we had to thick of tape wrapped around the two pieces.

Exactly as the demo instructed. It was very detail friendly and was very easy to follow.

Unplug refrigerator. 1. Using a thin screwdriver, slowly and carefully pry the front panel off that is around the ice and water dispensers starting at the bottom. Once the bottom side has been popped off, carefully lift up on the panel until the top tabs pop loose. 2. Remove the next panel (5 screws) which holds the light and two switches with a screwdriver or nut driver. I then taped it over to the side onto the freezer handle to keep it out of the way. I preferred not to unplug anything. 3. Remove the door mechanism with a nut driver. The same screw holds the water spout and door mechanism together. 4. Reverse the steps and you're done! I now have a silent ice door.

One front roller was flat on one side. Decided to replace all rollers at same time. Placed shims under unit and removed mounting screws for one front and one rear roller. With new rollers in place, I was able to level the refrigerator side to side, but unable to do so, front to back. Left the new front roller in place and reinstalled the old rear roller. Have decided to replace refrigeratorin the near future. This is one of my few repair failures!

Removed front panel to replace switch and found plastic holder broken ordered a new one then replaced that and switch now have H2O.

We emptied out both sides, refrigerator and freezer, and followed the instructions in your video. We turned it off and disconnected the power. We took off the freezer door first. It made it much easier to get the shelves out and reach way back into the freezer. We removed the light and cover, then the ice auger motor. The back panel was easy to lift and remove. The wire assembly was a little hard to understand at first, but when we figured it out it was easy to remove and replace the bimetal defrost thermostat. We did check the video when we had the wire harness out, to make sure we got it right. We reassembled the freezer's inside parts and reattached the door. Before we turned the power back on, we scrubbed down the entire refrigerator. When we turned the power back on, the refrigerator and freezer were operating quietly - no sparks or explosions or shorting out - hooray! And the problems were solved.
The most important resource is your video. It looked like something we could do, and then ordered the parts. Our repair took a long time because we checked the video so many times. Thank you so much for the great information and the excellent parts. We could not have done it without you.

Piece of cake. It took me longer to remove the food from the freezer, remove shelves and back panel than to do the repair. I heard the fan making some noises so I replaced both the fan and defrost thermostat. I used the instructions submitted by a another customer. My 20+ year old fridge is like new now.

The Video on U tube was helpful. I have a side by side model and it was difficult to work in such tight quarters to attach the new part . I found that by removing the cable assembly it was much easier to attach (cut and crimp) the new part on the outside , then reinsert the assembly. The new part resolved my problem. Don't panic when you try and remove the cable assembly. Hope this is helpful.