36378562896 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

First i removed everything from the bottom shelf, removed the glass, then removed the entire bracket assembly. Then removed the front metal strip to expose the front mounting screw, then removed the rear screw. Installed the new part and reversed the procedure.

Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.

Remove the rear cover, shut off the water, removed the hose, unplugged the electrical connector, removed the screw holding the valve on. Removed the plastic tube going into the freezer and reversed the steps

Replacing the new part wasn't hard, just very time consuming and frustrating. I had to remove two-thirds of the shelving of refrigerator as broken drawer slide was on the bottom and I had to have room to remove old and replace new. Of course, then I had to CLEAN all the drawers and shelving before replacing them and then, because they were fresh and clean, I had to remove the other third of shelving and wash and replace it. So, it was an hour-long or more time. I love your business, and had no idea I could get so many parts for old applicance and replace them myself, and I am a 70-year-old woman! This was the 2nd time to use your site and I will return to it again when needed. Thanks for prompt and reliable service and a site that makes it easy for a neophyte like me to find the broken part ! Keep up the good work.

I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.

1 unplug the appliance
2. remove the rear cardboard cover, giving access to the compressor and condenser area
3. remove the two (condenser motor bracket) mounting screws, then with the motor assembly in your hand remove the the fan blade which is friction mounted to the motor shaft( note the exact position of the fan blade on the motor shaft so you can replace it in the same position when you reassemble), remove the two wires connected to the motor. Also remove the rubber resilient mounting grommets on the motor mount frame as these can harden with age and cause excessive vibration.
4 install the new motor into the mounting frame with the new grommets
5 reconnect the two wires to the new motor (non polarized)
6 secure the mounting frame (with the installed new motor) back in place
7 slide the fan blade onto the new motor shaft
8 screw the rear access panel back in place
plug in the refrigerator. the next time the compressor and condenser fan cycle on, verify operation of the new condenser fan motor

I had made a dry run at the repair after watching the instructional film provided by part select and it seemed easy enough.
The only problem was that i needed to use the electrical cord extender (provided) to adapt to my plug type. That presented a problm because it needed to be tucked up out of the way to allow the ice bin to clear. Just needed to be creative in how you wrapped the cord behind the ice maker unit before snugging the attachment screws.
Cranking out ice like crazy.

First I removed the electrical plug from the back of the freezer that plugs into the icemaker. I then removed the two hex head screws that hold the icemaker to the wall of the freezer and removed the icemaker. I removed the plastic cover, which incidentally protects the gears, by prying it off with a srewdriver. I removed three small nuts(7mm) which holds the internal cam in place. I removed the cam by pulling it off the shaft. Once I got the part from you folks I reversed the procedure that I just mentioned, and put the icemaker back together. It works great. The part with shipping was around $16.00. A new icemaker was roughly $159.00. If I would have called a technician it would have cost around $300.00 to repair.

Three easy steps, take off old part then all you do is tighten nut on one end of part and then just push other end of pipe down in slot. Did half to remove nut off the top end of tube very simple to do

I loosened the compression nut on the valve with my fingers and pulled the water line free from the valve. On the other end, I just pulled it from the hose clamp. Installation in reverse. Force the water line into the fitting on top, Slide the old nut over the line on the bottom. Screw the nut onto the valve. Reach inside the freezer and turn on the ice maker. Done. Before replacing the cardboard grill, you should vacuum the coils on the bottom, front and back. If practical, push it outside and blow it out with an air compressor or a leaf blower.

Tried replacing water valve since no water in ice cube tray. Exact part not available due to age of refrigerator, but I got the equivalent replacement part for $18. Mounting holes different, but I made it work. Also one connect on new one slip connect whereas both compression fittings on old valve. I put it back together and icemaker now works great.

My husband took out the old icemaker in about 5 minutes. The new icemaker was a perfect fit even though the refrigerator was >10yrs old. The only difficult part was the plug extension that was needed so that it would fit into an older appliance. The part was included, it just made the cord about 3 inches longer than it needed to. After working with it for about 20 minutes we were able to fit it on the back side of the icemaker. Now it works great!!

Pop out switch, pull wires, attach wires to new switch and pop back in. Easy smeasy!

Repair was super simple. Everything was a direct fit. Hardest part was unloading freezer to access evap motor. My freezer was old making my wire shields very brittle so I cut the shielding and used heat shrink tubing for a neat clean repair.

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.