25337840890 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer.
2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils.
3. Unplug the wiring harness.
4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place.
5. Remove the motor and fan including the brackets.
6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket.
6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket.
7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer.
8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness.
9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes.
10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on.
11. Reinstall the back panel.
All done!

After unsuccessfully trying to change the blown light bulb I discovered that the plastic light socket had gotten so hot that it melted and permanently fused with the blown bulb. After my new socket arrived in the mail I just popped the temp control assembly out with a screw driver and removed the old socket and placed the new one in. Whole operation to 5 minutes.

The fan motor all but caught the inside of the freezer on fire . Had to remove then clean, and I mean clean the walls of the freezer . Then had to pry out the old fan without breaking anything . Replacement of new fan was quick and easy because all the parts that I needed were in the bag

1) The meat drawer and rails were damaged when my 7-year old son closed the refrigerator door while the meat pan was still extended.
2) I ordered the parts on-line using your easy to follow part search.
3) The items arrived 3 days later.
4) I used a phillips screw driver to remove the old rails & I attached the new rails (approximately 10 minutes).
5) I slid the front cover off of the damaged meat pan and slid it on to the new meat pan (approximately 3 minutes).
6) I slid the new meat pan onto the new rails.
7) I demonstrated to my son the importance of closing the meat pan prior to shutting the refrigerator door.

Bought a new
capacitor.

I wrote down the Brand and model# of my refrigerator. googled it and PartSelect came up. I mean it literally took me 5 minutes to select the part, and order it! I ordered it on a Saturday and the part arrived on Tuesday! And it was a perfect fit! I will always return to PartSelect for any replacement parts for my appliances! Thank you!

This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!

The Roper part was no longer available and a substitute was not recommended. But because of the excellant descriptions and photos on Part Select I was able to find a Fridgedaire part that looked exactly like the one I needed to replace. I it fit perfectly... I am impressed and have bookmarked your site for later purchases.
The thermostat is located at the top of the refridgerator compartmennt under the freezer. Remove light bulb to access the screw at the back of the thermostat/defrost timer housing. Remove screw and slide the assembly to the back to release the 2 tabs holding the front. Remove the temperature control knob on the thermostat, remove the 3 wires connected to the thermostat noting where which wire goes for re-assembly. Using a philips #2 screwdriver, remove the 2 screws under the temperature control knob and remove the thermostat. Do not lose the screws, the new thermostat does not have mounting hardware. Piece of cake, Ice cream cake if you get the freezer working again.

I removed the screw holding the assembly to the roof of the refrigerator and pulled it dow. I took out the two screws holding the Temp control, removed the three wires and reversed the process to reassemble. Works great now!

I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.

Door would not stay closed so I decided to replace the gasket... The new gasket install was easy and quick. I removed the liner and took off the old gasket, placed the new gasket on the liner and reinstalled the liner. However that did not fix the original issue of the door not closing. I followed all the instructions listed on the web site but none corrected the problem. The door on this model has no adjustment. So I adjusted the leveling wheels to tilt off center towards the back. That helped but still did not resolve the problem... I then closed the door slowly to see if it was being interfered with, As it turns out it was being hit by the bottom of the inside of the refrigerator. Since I could not adjust the door, I used the front leveling wheels to compensate for the lack of door adjustment. I slowly kept adjusting the w heels to see what effect it had. I finally adjusted them to the point were the door now closes and seals on its own. I’m guessing that over time the liner became malformed and caused the door to hit the inside of the refrigerator. After it started working I checked the level side to side and front to back. Side to side is good and there is a slight tilt to the rear.

took cover off inside freezer control . removed old fan and unpluged wire harness plugged new one up and fastened back in place and put control cover back on.

First, I unplugged the appliance. Safety, first.
Than I removed the shield which was held in by screws. This covered the fan, thermometer.
The defrost thermostat was taken out, with a little extra force. The wires on the defective part were no longer attached to the part. The instructions were easy to follow in replacing the defrost thermostat. I stripped the coating on the wire, attached it with the enclosed electical bugs. The assy was able to follow, and the part went back on. The refrigerator is working perfectly. I couldn't have done it without the help in diagnosing the problem and with the speedy delivery of the new part. Thanks for all your help and the ease of the installing the new part!

Tapping on the thermostat control would start the compressor, but after cycle was complete it would not start again on it's own. Seemed like a slam-dunk that the control contacts were worn out. PS had the right part in stock, and it arrived quickly. Nearly identical to the original part, it installed without any problems. One minor glitch, though - the mounting tabs are tapped for #6 screws, but the original screws were #4. Since no hardware was included, I had to dig up larger screws to make it work. Not a big deal at all - but it would be handy to include these screws. Works just like the original, maintains inside temp just fine. A no-brainer for 65 bucks. This fridge is 15+ years old, and now serves as a beer cave. Cold beers for everyone!

Removed the old drawer. Put the front on the drawer which ws a little tricky but with the help of a screw driver to gently pry the drawer the front went on easy.
Put the drawer in the refrigerator.

Just like that.