59679529013 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I searched the internet for the correct part and reviewed the instructions on the internet. Upon ordering the correct part I was provided a link to a video that walked me through step by step. The very first thing I did was unplug the refrigerator.I then located the control board located in the housing in the ceiling of the refrigerator. Using a screwdriver I was able to carefully separate the housing from the refrigerator ceiling . Unplugged the housing and then had to separate the plastic housing to locate the control board. Ran into a little difficulty at first separating the plastic tabs but with a screwdriver carefully pried the tabs. Once completely open is where the control board was. More plastic tabs holding the control board in place. Carefully separated the board from the tabs. The were two plugs that needed to be separated from the board. Used a screwdriver to get the plugs separated.The new board you had to bend carefully at a joint so the board became two pieces. Snapped the boards in place. Plugged the board in two spots. Put the housing together and put the housing in place in the refrigerator. Plugged the refrigerator in. All lights came on and then had to program the board. The instructions were spit on. The code is located inside the fridge were the model tag is. Programmed correctly. Word of advice read the directions a few times you can't go wrong. So far it's day 7 after I installed the board and no ice building up. According to the internet the control board controls the defrost function on my model. Very happy. I'm still watching the freezer but I'm pretty sure I fixed my matter. Thanks for sending the right part and the video. Repair went well. Just take your time and go easy because everything involved is plastic. I didn't want to break any tabs I had to deal with.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

This took 30 seconds. Lift out shelf glass, remove broken pieces, snap new part into place.

take the old one out replace with new once - no instructions required, no tools needed

Loosen 4 screws remove door wipe off frost pull old gasket out of slot push in new gasket instal door that was it. No help need.

After removing the shelves and drawers to gain access to the End Cap unit. I removed the screws and detached the unit which was a little tricky without any actual drawing details. After removing the unit I had to undo the plastic temperature control arm without breaking same. I then transferred the shelve draw slide and reconnected the control arm assembly to the new End Cap unit . At that point it was a simple installation, the drawer works better then new. Note: I did find some loose packing material behind the End Cap assembly unit that might have caused the failure of the drawer and door mechanism during its original factory fabrication. Other than that the project was a complete success. Dick S.

take out two nut driver screws remove piece, take off track two philips head screws. transfer temp control rod, really easy then put track back on and install piece. probable took as long to remove the two veg crispers and glass top. this is a very easy fix. i did notice that the pin on the original was about 3/8 of an inch forward so flapper door did not quite line up and im sure caused the pin to snap off. the replacement part, the pin is exactly the same position as the other side. i believe the original was defective from the mfgr.

Pulled the broken pantry door off, and snapped the new door in place. Vry simple.

Took off old cover 3 screws...removed metal track and 2 other plastic sliding bars for air flow..put on new cover and carefully put back deli cover on plastic pins..easy fix...lousy design by maytag again! Thanks to PartSelect easy and prompt service and delivery!

Followed the video and installed the new Jazz board. The board cam in 1 piece which had to be separated into two pieces, but the scored area on the board made it less intimidating. At the same time I replaced the two incandescent lamps in the refrigerator area with LED lamps. Getting the housing for the control board apart was the most difficult part, installing the replacement board was a breeze.

Awesome! Couldn't ask for it any better. I watched the video from Partselect multiple time and was just as easy as they said it would be. It took me longer to watch the video four times than it did for me to install it. I have a habit of 10 minute projects turning into a couple hours and this took about 10 minutes. Thanks.

I did not unplug the refrigerator. Your choice on this. Take a close look at the existing icemaker, how the wires are routed and what the water spout looks like as it relates to the icemaker. Small flat-blade screwdriver will help in unlocking tabs on the icemaker plug. Go ahead and unplug it. Of the three screws that secure the icemaker, two are impossible to see without holding a mirror in your third hand. Completely remove the bottom screw (by feel). Don't drop it, like I did. Have no idea where it went. Loosen the top two screws but do not remove. Icemaker will lift off of the top two screws when you push it up. With old icemaker out of the way, plug in the new icemaker. Be careful to properly align the water spout into the new icemaker as you hook it on the two top screws. When everything looks good, tighten the two top screws. Replace the bottom screw, if you didn't lose it. My icemaker is doing fine without a bottom screw. It should make some ice within an hour, or so. Mine did.

Hardest part is access to the icemaker itself. Once I removed the freezer door (bottom drawer freezer), and got the sliding basket out, it was a 10 minute job. Make sure you start the upper screws first, the icemaker will hang there while you adjust, connect the harness, and tighten. Make sure you are ready before you close the door, it will start making ice as soon as the door is closed.

There was little or almost nothing to change out the End Cap, two screws on the End Cap and two screws on slide. It took longer to removed and replace the two drawers and shelve than it did to replace the End Cap. The part I ordered was exactly what I needed.

1. Turn your water OFF and pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you can access the back.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.