59669382010 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the freezer door, by loosening 4 screws and pulling upwards to disengage door from frame. Removed the top basket by pulling up on both slides on the gear shaft sides, note they have retaining tabs you must push in. once the slide / guards are up the top basket comes out. Remove the bottom basket. Remove to angled screws on the top tracks and remove. Remove 6 screws on bottom slides, 3 per side and slide out as a whole unit. Unplug the ice maker, remove 3 screws for it to come out. Note I cleaned mine while it was out with vinegar to remove the mineral build up on it. Remove the screws in the back panel, and pull it forwards. The top vent has 2 clips that hold it in and you will need to remove it prior to fully removing the plate. The plug for the icemaker needs to be removed also. Pull the back plate out. Once the plate is out you can see the fan and access it. Unplug the clips that hold the wiring harness secure. 2 screws to remove the fan assembly. Once fan assembly is out, disassemble it, then reverse assemble it with new parts and fire it up. Mine took right off and running like its brand new.

Remove light lens by pushing straight back (needs some oomph, but not too much). Remove control housing by prying spring clips in back of housing with thin screwdriver or knife. Remove old control board by releasing plastic clips on both sections and removing 2 wiring plugs. Be careful snapping new control board in ; the alignment of the 4 switches and the 2 readouts is critical - easy to hang up a switch. Snap the control housing back into place, making sure that it is all the way in. Position the light lens so that it is lined up and about 1/2" back and then slide it forward (toward you) into place. The instruction sheet calls the refrigerator section the "fresh food" section. There are 2 light switches, one for each door. Both have to held down to get light to go out and enter programming mode. Easiest to close the right door, then push left door switch and quickly push the freezer DOWN button 3 times. Follow the instructions to set the program on the display and then push AND HOLD the freezer DOWN button until the display starts flashing. Release the freezer DOWN button, close the doors, open the doors to check. Display will indicate two 4s. (that was what mine indicated). Done.

Just slipped it in. I think it's a very poor design.

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

Pulled out broken parts and snapped/ pushed into place new ladder hooks 15 min max

The part just snapped in. super easy.

The icing n the freezer and wetness/ humidity in the fridge would not stop. I reasoned the freezer seal was bad and letting the outside humidity in. This fridge had been moved to the garage after a new one was put in my house. The new door seals completely fixed the problem, works perfectly now.

Unscrewed bulb from sock .
Replaced with new one . Now working

Complete replacement of the plastic drawer.

Thanks for the video showing how to replace the Humidity Slide the knowledge that the end with the flair needed to be slightly bent to SNAP into place was a big help.

The video on the part select website with the Canadian gentleman was absolutely the best! My wife and I watched it and was able to accomplish the replacement with no surprises or issues. One tip that we could add is that the orientation of the temperature sensor was not specified in the video, but the slot seemed to work better for one orientation versus another. It has been a couple weeks since the repair and the refrigerator is working like it did when we first purchased it.

in stalled new circuit board an thermostat an was fixed

I'm a 37 year old woman who has never worked on a fridge before, ever.
I was able to google how to run diagnostics on it and determine what the issue was.
Once I received the part I was able to take apart the freezer to get to the motor. Remove the old motor and install the new motor.
This was extremely easy I watched a couple of the youtube videos provided here and now it's running just fine.

The fridge would occasionally run warm, requiring me to turn it off and defrost the evap coils in the freezer. I found an online video that demonstrated the entire process of replacing the control board. The fridge model in the video was different than mine, so it took some time to figure out how to remove the panel. Once that was done, the rest was easy. The only tool required was a flat-head screwdriver that was used to push in the tabs holding the panel in place. The circuit board took more effort to split in two than I had realized, and I had to be careful not to bend any of the components on its surface. The whole process took less than 30 minutes, and the fridge is working properly now..

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.