10673932300 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Took out the cracked one, and replace with the new one. Fitted perfectly.

Slipped track into grooves, and wha-la!! Easy fix, quick order turn-around, part realidy available for a ten year old appliance. Overall, could not have been a better experience.

After unplugging the appliance, I unscrewed the screws in the bottom and the back of the freezer compartment and un-clipped the connector for the ice machine, which i do not have installed. I clipped the pink and brown wires and replace the switch with the new switch. unfortunately, the appliance is still dripping water from the freezer compartment. It worked for a couple of days then stopped working. Still looking for a true FIX.

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

Part fit perfectly glass dropped right in

Remove back side cardboard access cover. About 6 dcrews need to be removed. Remove 9/16” bolt and lower compressor tray frame down to slide out wheel axel. Place wheel in slot and replace axel. Lift compressor tray and replace 9/16” bolt. Replace cardboard cover. Remove 2x4.

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

First shut off water supply and unplug power. Unscrew icemaker assembly from side wall with 3 screws. Remove front cap and you can clearly see module. Unscrew and remove module ( only three screws). Install new module and revers procedure to finish up. Ice was ready in just a few hours. Video provided by this site was right on and left no questions.

NO DIRECTIONS CAME WITH GASKET! Project failure as gasket tore on a corner. For the price of this gasket, I was DISAPPOINTED. Door is being held shut with a childproof strap.

decided to take a chance and replace the ice maker,so far no water leaking.feels nice to know the problem is fixed.thanks for the video on how to replace it, thanks again very easy repair

This is an incredibly easy repair.

1) Remove the three screws holding the old icemaker

2) Disconnect the electrical connection (I used a spoon to get in and undo the connector clip

Do the opposite to install the new icemaker.

Total elapsed time was about 5 minutes.

The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.

1. Removed the icemaker door
2. Removed the two screws from the underside of the icemaker unit
3. Removed the slide-on plastic cover that protects the power cable connector
4. Removed the icemaker unit
5. Removed the two screws from the control unit
6. Pulled the control unit from the icemaker unit
7. Installed the new control unit and reinstalled the icemaker assembly

A repairman wanted to charge me $250 to do what I did in about 20 minutes for about $120.

Removed crisper drawers removed glass shelf installed Rail.
Replaced glass shelf then installed crisper drawers.

1). Pull Frig away from wall,
2). Unplug Frig
3). Turn off water feed
4). Remove cardboard dust shield on lower back
of frig (1/4" screws. I used socket)
5.) Valve visible attached with two1/4" screws to
Frig frame. (Remove two screws)Tip it is a good idea to hand tighten the two srews back into their original holes. This marks their placement for mounting the NEW valve later.

6.) Inlet Valve has three water lines attached to it
and two electrical clip-on wires.
7.) Stop work and take a picture of the Valve,
which clearly shows color coded clip-on wires
and hose connection ports.
8.) Take a break and study the photo next to
the NEW valve in order to insure an OEM
match.
9.). Note: Lines push directly into ports and then you need to pull them toward you, as though you were pulling them back out of the port. This will seat and seal the water lines with a tight fit.
Tip: Cut the old line about 2-3 inches away from the old valve and check that your cut is clean, before putting it in the portal of the replacement valve. Note: You only get it right the first time, so double check your cut is square with clean edges.
Look at the lines pointed straight at you to insure the plastic hose is still round. If it is oval or slightly creased at the edges, cut the hose with a razor blade or very sharp knife until it looks good and shove in fully, until it hits bottom, inside the NEW valve. Give a firm short pull and you will feel the hose seat almost immediately.

10.) Repeat the process with all three hoses
and take another short break. Look at your
photo to guide your color matching with the
Clip-on electrical connectors.

11.) Now remove the Clip-on electrical
connectors one at a time and place on the
NEW valve.

12.) Turn on the water feed line and check for
leaks. If NO leaking is detected, congratulate
yourself, and use two 1/4" screws to mount
the NEW valve to the frig frame. The two
screws you left hand tight in the frame, show
the way.

13.). Plug in the Frig. let everything settle in for 10
minutes, while you have a break for a small
bite/drink, use the bathroom, etc.

14.) Okay time to push the frig back against the
wall. Do you want to place the old dust
shield on the back of the frig? If you are
unsatisfied with the condition of the old one,
you might consider replacing it.

15.) My wife is good at crafts, so she chose to
use the old one as a template and made a
new cover out of material she had to buy.

16.). I should tell you that I had to do this job twice, because I bought a cheap valve online that looked exactly like what I needed. It failed to work with the ice maker and after three months, it started to leak. Once again I learned "you get what you pay for."

I hope this helps one or two people get it right on their first attempt.

Good Luck, Larry