59669280013 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I came across this site and looked at the diagrams. Instead of buying a new crisper bin frame, I noticed that the crisper bin frame was missing the frame brace. I purchased the frame brace and installed it in the crisper frame, which was easy to push into the slot. This solved my problem. No more sag!!

Removed the freezer door, by loosening 4 screws and pulling upwards to disengage door from frame. Removed the top basket by pulling up on both slides on the gear shaft sides, note they have retaining tabs you must push in. once the slide / guards are up the top basket comes out. Remove the bottom basket. Remove to angled screws on the top tracks and remove. Remove 6 screws on bottom slides, 3 per side and slide out as a whole unit. Unplug the ice maker, remove 3 screws for it to come out. Note I cleaned mine while it was out with vinegar to remove the mineral build up on it. Remove the screws in the back panel, and pull it forwards. The top vent has 2 clips that hold it in and you will need to remove it prior to fully removing the plate. The plug for the icemaker needs to be removed also. Pull the back plate out. Once the plate is out you can see the fan and access it. Unplug the clips that hold the wiring harness secure. 2 screws to remove the fan assembly. Once fan assembly is out, disassemble it, then reverse assemble it with new parts and fire it up. Mine took right off and running like its brand new.

Unplugged fridge
Pulled light cover off
Used screwdrivers to press in on tabs holding control board cover.
Unplug wiring harnesses.
Snapped board in two.
Install in cover
Reattach wires
Done

I followed the video provided by Part Select. I also let the refrigerator stay unplugged overnight with all the doors open. This p-trap kit has fixed the leaks out of the front of the refrigerator. There is no ice build-up in the freezer. Perfect!

I followed the video provided by PartsSelect and it was very good with almost every step you take. Pay particular attention to how the demonstrator stands relative to the frame and things will go a bit easier. There is one thing the video fails to do well and that is show you how the metal U-shaped rod is extracted. At best, the close-up gives you a clue rather than a sense of what is done and the verbal explanation of what it is you are trying to do with the screwdriver blade is unfortunately not detailed enough. I experimented as best I could with varying degrees of force and various positions but was taken by surprise when the rod suddenly was free and slid half-way out of the old frame. I still am not clear in my own mind what I did to free it, though I have my suspicions ;). Other than that step, the video took me through everything smoothly. One key - save everything from your old frame, you'll need it all!

Bought new crisper from Parts select followed directions on how to replace. Replaced in a bought 30 minutes.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

The fridge would occasionally run warm, requiring me to turn it off and defrost the evap coils in the freezer. I found an online video that demonstrated the entire process of replacing the control board. The fridge model in the video was different than mine, so it took some time to figure out how to remove the panel. Once that was done, the rest was easy. The only tool required was a flat-head screwdriver that was used to push in the tabs holding the panel in place. The circuit board took more effort to split in two than I had realized, and I had to be careful not to bend any of the components on its surface. The whole process took less than 30 minutes, and the fridge is working properly now..

I unplugged the capacitor which allowed access to the on/off relay. Unplugged the old broken one and plugged in the new one. All better.

Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.

Simply removed the food, drawers, glass top and shelf. Snapped in the new "ladder hook"and replaced the rest.

got the new part, took the old part out and snapped the new part in! Very easy. Thank you.

I opened the large cardboard container the way it appeared to have been sealed. I knew i was dealing with glass. It was packed soooo great! After opening I Saw that the glass was tucked behind a separate piece of cardboard. Glad I had laid the package on the table to open. This made it easy to lift up out of the package. I went over the glass with a slightly damp cloth and dried. Peeled off the little stickers and laid it on top of the shelf supports and middle divider. It rested down right on top and eased into place. Wah-la!! All done! Thanks! Easiest repair I have ever had, and I am almost 70 with a lot of history in repairs!!