79570322310 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

This was an incredibly easy repair! 1 phillips screwdriver and two screws. Disconnect the small adapter, and you are good to go!

First, remove power to the refrigerator.

To replace the ice maker you first have to remove the back mounting assembly, which ice maker is attached to.

Only three Phillips head screws need to be removed: 2 on the bottom and 1 on the back of the ice maker mounting assembly. Do not remove the two diagonal Phillips head screws holding the dispenser motor on the reverse side of the mounting assembly.

As you pull out the mounting assembly to the front you will see a connector on the top inside, which must be unplugged. A narrow standard screw driver will help the connector lock to release; slide the screwdriver tip under the connector lock clip and it will allow the connector to be unplugged.

Once the ice maker mounting assembly is removed and placed on a flat surface it will be self evident as to how to remove and replace the ice maker. The 1” tape might be needed during the cable re-routing process. However you can reuse the original tape required to be removed during the ice maker remove and replace process, if possible.

Reinstall the ice maker mounting assembly in the reverse order it was removed.

Apply power to the refrigerator.

Cycle the ice maker to Off and then back to On. It may take an hour or two before the ice maker produces ice because the temperature inside the ice maker must reach “0” degrees Fahrenheit before it will begin making ice.





Pull the ice maker

I actually didn't use what I got. Because there was all kinds of tubing coiled up in the door. We just fed the exsess all the way through the Fridge,and Bingo! It was done.

Make sure you remove the double crisper frame that the glass sits on to get both the glass and frame to room (same) temperature!!!!!as easy as that!!!!!

Replaced with new mullion

The spring broke on the flapper (mullion) on my refrigerator. I sent a chat message to PartsSelect (they answered right away) to see if they had a replacement spring but it was not available so had to order the whole mullion. They gave me the part # I would have to order. It arrived quickly. The new mullion didn’t have a visible spring but it worked the same if not better. I just had to remove 2 screws on the center plate on the existing mullion, pull the plate out enough so you will be able to slide the mullion (the wires are under the plate kind of like the ones you see on a ceiling smoke detector) but you can’t get under the plate until you release the mullion. Push up on the mullion so that the plastic tabs on the top and bottom are released. Once the mullion is released (you have to hold it), you’ll see the wires. Unhook the wire part by just pushing down on the little tab and remove it. To install the new one, just reverse the steps. Align the top and bottom plastic tabs to fit into the slots, just enough to hold it in place. If the plastic tabs are not already flipped out, you’ll have to just flip them out. The top tab does not have tension but the bottom tab has tension so just push on it with your finger to flip it out. The plate covering the electrical is a rather tight fit and you have to make sure the little tab on the inside of the plate is above and behind the tab on the inside where the wires are so it slides behind it so you can get it in position before sliding the mullion back down into place and the electrical plate is in place too. Then screw the 2 screws back in. The hardest part is holding the mullion while un-attaching the electrical and just make sure you stuff the wires in enough so you can get the plate back in position. I’m a 75 yr old woman and managed fine by myself. At first when installing the new one, I couldn’t slide the mullion down enough to get the electrical plate in position and then realized I had to have the little tab inside the electrical plate behind the tab inside the wire compartment so they didn’t hit one another when pushing the mullion back down. Then, all went fine.

Followed instructions online

The only tool required was a Phillips screwdriver. I disassembled the old icemaker and unplugged the electrical snap in device. I removed the ground wire. Then reversed the steps in replacing the refrigerator ice maker kit assembly. It took slightly over 30 minutes to remove and replace the ice maker.

Watched the video. Took the screws out, unplugged the connection and slid mullion off. Then plugged the new one in, slid it on and attached the two screws.

Swapped old one with new one. New one had extra plug not needed.

I bought the ice assembly motor only, super easy to install, remove the three main screws, lift out assembly, detach the cable. Then remove the screws on the parts, lift the tape, redo everything in reverse and it works flawlessly!

Unplugged the frig and removed two phillip screws on flapper door of left door... Unplugged the electrical connector and removed flapper...
Picked up new flapper and snapped electrical contractor together... Slid new flapper bar into place and inserted two phillip screws... Job complete in 15 minutes...

I have moderate to good mechanical skills, but getting the old switch out was a sizeable challenge. Since this switch suffered some damage during extraction, I was lucky to have ordered a new one to replace it. Reinstall took approximately 90 seconds. PartSelect saved me an expensive service call.

Removed ice dispenser and display with small screwdriver from front of the fridge. Pried out the whole piece slowly. This exposed the motor that activates the chute. Plugged in the new motor before any removal to verify the motor was the problem. When it worked, removed old and installed new. 3 screws. Piece of cake.

The 2 minute or so video was not exactly matching the model that we had but the instructions were very good and important. The switch was a little difficult to get out from the side of the refrigerator.