59679249016 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

replaced the poorly designed "duck bill" drain with this P trap. Very simple repair done by accessing through the back of the refrigerator. The video on this website walked me right through the repair. It did however fail to mention that the ice has to be removed from the inside. I had to remove the drawer face and pull outs. Then the ice maker and back panel are removed. I used a heat gun and screwdriver to chip and melt the ice build up. If one had the luxury of having another refrigerator to move food in to you could just unplug the unit until the ice melts.

Repair was a piece of cake. My only wish would have been a little more informed on a few other parts I could have replaced as well. It obviously would have increased my cost, but would have simplified the install process, and still would have been cheaper then calling a service guide. I would recommend buying and installing the new gaskets when doing this. And possibly the steel support bar that goes threw the plastic shelf. Removing that bar was the most difficult task, difficult only that if you used to much force, SNAP!! and then your pissed! and have to start all over.

Uncurl new gaskets (set out on a table or countertop) and let them get to room temperature so they straighten out. Use hands to pull off old door gaskets. Starting at corners, use hands to push gasket into the groove on the door. Make sure gasket is properly seated all the way around the door. If some part is still wrinkled or bent, carefully use a hairdryer to heat it a bit and smooth it out.

watched diagnosis and repair videos online, assessed problem, order part and replaced ice maker. was not expecting to replace wiring harness but got it done and icemaker is working just fine.

Snap Out
Snap In
Yes That Easy!!

They send you just the guts, the inner core of the icemaker, and don't include the back piece that has the motor to rotate the screw-drive dispenser and the blower. You get 2 wiring harnesses, and since no instructions come with, you get to figure out which one. The replacement has a few different plugs than the original and those competent can determine which without too much problem. One obstacle was the grounding screw which was inaccessible without removing another part which would have added greatly to the difficulty. I snipped off the old wire and the ring-terminal on the new one and joined the two with a wire clasp. Works like a charm. I had previously replaced the cycling thermostat and checked that the water valve solenoid was within the proper ohm boundaries-don't spend the money for the whole thing without trying those first! Mine must be an odd model because no YouTube videos showed the icemaker from this model.

Once I took new gaskets out of carton
and put out on patio to warm up I removed old gaskets pressed in new gaskets which made a great seal
Job was easy and took no skill

Reviewed replacement instructions video on your website. Just followed the easy instructions to pop out old cover and pop in new cover. I would not have tried to replace it myself had I not seen your video. Super easy.

(1) Slide out appliance and remove power source. (2) Removed lower access cover on rear of refrigerator. (3) Disconnected plug to the condenser fan motor. (4) remove blades by pulling gently forward (5) remove mounting hardware holding the fan motor (3 screws) (6) motor is now free and new motor can be installed

you need to take the deli drawer out, make sure your flat head screw driver is large enough for the head of the screw as screwing into the plastic is a bit difficult. Other than that there are 2 screws and its pretty easy.

We ordered the part by phone at about 4pm on Monday, and it arrived via Fed Ex at 10:30am the next day. WOW. My husband fixed it in about 5 minutes. Removed the old mullion with a socket set thing and screwdriver. Unscrewed the screw, slid the mullion up, disconnected a wider that is inside. Then he lined up the top and bottom plastic parts, reconnected the new wire, slid the new mullion in place, and screwed it on.

We snapped the new one on correctly this time.

Ordered the part. When came in I took it out of the box and slid the two end posts into the provided holes. Lid fixed in less than 5 minutes. Part came in on the third day because I ordered on Friday afternoon.

The repair didn't get done, because both times that I requested a 25-Watt Light Bulb, I received a 3.6 Watt bulb instead & neither one worked. So I tried testing the original bulb in a table lamp & it worked. So I sense that the problem may be in the switch that allows the light to turn on when the drawer is opened & shut off when the drawer is closed.

Since there were no instructions, I was a tad hesitant but dove in. I was just replacing the right end cap, not the left. Removed the involved shelf as well as the two drawers above. Undid the three screws involved and carefully removed the slide rail end cap as well as a part in the back that was attached. That was the hairy part. It took a bit of time to remove it since everything seems so brittle but I was careful and got the assembly out without breaking anything. Also had to remove the slide rail and humidity control. Nothing to removing and replacing the slide rail. You just have to put it back correctly oriented. This was easy. I just looked at the one on the left, which I hadn't removed. Most time consuming part was cleaning things that were normally inaccessible, before re-installing.