1069552481 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The hardest part was unloading all the food from the refridgerator door! Once done, pry shroud off top door hinge, remove 3 screws and hinge plate. Lift door off bottom hinge. Remove one screw from bottom of door, remove and discard old lifter cam and spacer. Clean up a bit. Install new spacer and lifter cam. Tighten new screw firmly. Replace the lifter cam and spacer on bottom hinge pin (affixed to refridgerator body) using the same method. Replacing the door is easiest if 2 people do it. One person to lift and steady the door, the other has to lie on the floor and guide the door onto the hinge pin. Replace top hinge plate and screws. Snap shroud back over top hinge plate. Replace food in refridgerator. Close door. Done!

Cut off old nozzle. Tried electricians tape to join the old and new tubing for fishing, but tube with tape on it, wouldn't fit through hole in hinge at bottom of door. Fished nylon twine through new tube then old tube from dispenser end and was able to feed old tube out and new tube in. Fast and easy. Took more time to clean all the dust and dirt I found down under, than to make the repair.

Removed 2 control panel knobs and face plate that is snaped in place using a knife to prey it causing to snape lose.
Removed 4 cover screws that gave me acess to Defrost Timer. Remove two fastining screws on timer unit. Remove electrical color coded 4 prong connector plug. Have to make sure black jumper wire on the new timer kit is connected to the correct one of the 4 prongs as to instruction sheet for my model refrigerator. Reassemble in reverse order. Bingo! Fixed.

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

We rolled the refrigerator out away from the wall and it was obvious where the break was located. We took out the old water spout for the ice maker and replaced the tube and the tubing from the solenoid. We turned it on and soon we had water dripping everywhere. We unloaded and defrosted the freezer which got all of the remaining ice that was stuck in there. We put everything back together. I read in some instructions in the manual that it might take 24 hours for the ice maker to reprogram itself and start producing ice. I was only about 12 hours and we had ice again and everything worked well. You really do not have to disconnect the water from the main line, the solinoid controls that part of operation and turns the water off until the ice trays are free and clear.

JLB

I pulled the refer from the wall, disconnected the power and removed the cardboard cover at the base. Using a vacuum and compressed air, I cleaned it thoroughly.
I used a screwdriver to lift the locking tab on the 3-wire connector and removed it. The best way to get the three bolts off was with a 1/4" drive ratchet and go to the std nutdriver handle when they were loose. The fan came out carefully with the blade. I removed the blade nut with flat nosed pliers, cleaned it and placed it on the new motor. I replaced the motor and installed the screws. On a do-over I would install onew screw in each hole at least halfway to get the threads started/ threaded. After that the connector slipped in and I spun the blade to check for interference. The blades can be slightly bent, but use of nut tension can also slightly adjust fan alignment as it's tight to the housing.
That's it

The hardest part of this job was removing the front cover over the water and ice dispensing unit.

Step 1: remove front cover by inserting flat head screwdriver into one of small slots on the bottom side of the cover. Push up firmly, but not too hard (don't beak the plastic cover). As you are pushing up, slightly pry the bottom edge away from refrigerator door. Then, do the same for the other side.
Step 2: Now with both edges slghtly pried away for door, you will now need to use your hands and apply an upward pressure on the cover. (Understand that there are three tabs on the top side of the cover that must come about 1/4" out of slots on the top side of the door.) Try wiggling the cover, while applying upward pressure. You may find the door handle restricting one of the tabs, but you can slide the cover to the side to get it out.
Step 3: with the cover removed, now you can use the nut driver to remove the one (1) screw that holds the mechanism in place. Be sure to see how it fits over the dispensing lever.

Step 4: Install the new delay mechanism by inserting the prong over the dispensing lever and seat into place. Insert screw and tighten.
Step 5: ensure that you installed the device properly by actuating the ice dispenser. If everything is OK, proceed to next step. If not, make sure you installed it correctly.
Step 6: Reinstall front cover by insering the three upper tabs into slots at the top of the dispensing area. Apply downward pressure with your hands, then push the bottom side of the cover in. You should hear them snap into place.
Step 7: Dispense ice into a glass, add water, and enjoy your finsihed project

First I unplugged appliance then I remove two screws from the thermostat/light cover. I then remove two defrost timer mounting screws and all electrical connectors. Then utilizing instructions recieved with new defrost timer I ascertained which wires should go where. When I was sure I had the wires ready I connected them to the others in the appliance and plugged the appliance in to ensure that the noise was no longer heard and made sure timer was working. Everything seemed fine so I unplugged appliance and secured two defrost timer mounting screws and thermostat/light cover mounting screws and that was that.

First of all it's nice to have an exploded view of the ice/water dispenser.
First remove the trim around the ice'water dispenser by carfully prying the bottom out and popping the trim up to release the top.
Remove the 2 screws that hold the light switch and light, move out and to the right, do not disconnect.
Remove the 2 hex screws that hold the old arm in place. This will allow the arm to drop down so you can remove the arms' ice guide.
The arm has a spring for tension on the right side. Remove it and retain.
Above the water dispenser is a screw that holds the ice door closer spring, remove this screw and slide out the spring loaded closer
Loosen the right screw that holds the water dispenser, it is spring loaded.
You should now have room to remove the old ice dispenser arm.
Slide the new arm up into place behind the ice dispenser door
install the spring tensioner to the right side mount screw at the same time align it with the left side of the water dispenser arm. The ice dispenser arm and the water dispenser arm share this mount so both arms have to be in place in order for the arms to work properly.
Install the left mount and screw of the ice dispenser arm
Install the ice dispenser arm's ice guide using the screw removed earlier.
Next reinstall the Ice door tensioner spring and screw making sure the metal arm of the ice door is engaged in the slot of the tensioner.
Finally reinstall the screws to the light swithch and light bar and snap the trim back into place.

My husband took the old motor out by taking the screws out. Then, he unplugged the fan. We searched your site for the part. With the pictures on the site, we were able to match the motor exactly. The delivery was really fast. When we received the part, he installed the fan and plugged in the power connector. We have replaced refrigerator fans before but anyone can do this with no experience. Just follow the instructions and you're all set.

removed the defrost timer and replaced with new unit now i have a refrigerator again

Not being a handyman I found this job realtively easy.I took most of stuff off fridge door, to make door easier to handle. I then undid top hinge door screws, 3 of them, lifted door out., replaced 2 cams.When putting door back on fridge, you have to make sure door is in exact position and top hinge is lined up exactly, or door will continue to pop a little.It took me a couple of times to get top hinge lined up exactly.

At age 65 I have never attempted to repair a refrigerator, until now. It took longer than needed because I did not read these articles carefully. Please note that when you open the door and the light blinks twice, waits a second and blinks again, the optics are working fine. I ordered an emitter and receiver when I didn't need to. I sent it back, the money was refunded, and ordered the ice maker. I replaced the old icemaker by removing three screws and slipping it out of its holder.

Here is how I found out I needed the new ice maker. I took the supply line apart that runs down the back of the refrigerator. I blew through it without any trouble. This told me that the line was not frozen within the refrigerator. I put the supply line back together, and jumped the solenoid that was connected to the supply line at the bottom right of the refrigerator. My model is the side by side, so it has two solenoids. The solenoid that runs the water to the dispenser in the door was always running, so I knew if there was a problem it would be with the ice maker solenoid. So, how did I jump the solenoid. Kids, don't try this at home. I disconnected the wiring harness to the solenoid by pulling it straight out. Then I took the female end of an extension chord and placed a twelve two electrical wire with the ends stripped into the positive and negative slots. I then jumped the solenoid. Water ran to the ice maker, but there still wasn't any ice made. Since the optics and the solenoid were working it seemed to me that the ice maker wasn't doing it's part. There are easier ways to check the solenoid in this forum, but this worked for me. I saved a lot of money and the parts got here quickly.

I first had to identify the faulty part. I ohms checked the micro switch in the door. It was fine. I traced the wiring to the inlet valve at the bottom of the rear of the unit. I checked the voltage to the solenoids and it was good. After checking the schematics on the Whirlpool website, I determined the only possible faulty part was the inlet valve. I found the correct part here on PartSelect and ordered it. When the part arrived I changed out inlet valves by turning off the water supply, unplugging the refrigerator, removing the two inlet valve mounting screws, and disconnecting the wire terminals. The inlet water line was a 1/2" compression nut and the water and ice outlets were hand turn compression nuts. I reversed the removal steps to install the new valve, turned the water on, checked for leaks, plugged in the refrigerator, and the new valve worked perfectly. The feeling of accomplishing a DIY project was only topped by a happy wife who really didn't want to spend the money on a new fridge!

The gooseneck on the icemaker fill tube extends out beyond the back cabinet of the refrigerator, and is easily broken. Luckily, this part is a piece of cake to replace. You'll literally spend more time pulling out your fridge and cleaning out behind it then you will replacing this part.

Shut off water supply line, and turn off ice maker (lift the metal bar in the ice bucket all the way up). Loosen the hose fitting, and remove two screws. Pull out the old tube, and slide the new one in. You may have to wiggle the tube around from the inside to get the alignment correct. Replace screws and fitting. Turn water and ice maker back on, and check for leaks. It really is that easy! It took me longer to type this than to actually replace the part.

Only one potential catch. The instructions warn that you may have to cut the new tube to match the length of the old tube, so make sure you compare the length of the old and new tube. I didn't have to to do anything - the replacement part was the exact same length of the original. If by chance you do need to cut the tube, you'll need small saw of some sort, such as a coping or hack saw.