59650392001 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

simply removed the old pump and replaced it with new oneconnecting water hoses (2 1 In & 1 out)and replugged the elactric connections as the old connections were plugged, Probably 1/2 hour including get ready and cleanup!

Used socket set to remove screws. Removed the wire harness, then removed lift arm from old ice maker and then put lift arm on the new ice maker. Reinstall wire harness then installed back in freeze with the screws. Video was very helpful. I will do business with Partselect in the future. Shipping was very fast. Thanks Partselect

First, I shut off the water going to the refrigerator, then removed the ice bin. Then I loosened the two screws on the top of the ice maker (the one toward the front was a little tricky, since you can't see it at all), then removed the screw that fastens the lower bracket to the side of the frig. Then I lifted up on it slightly to remove it from the two upper screws, then unplugged the wiring harness from the side of the refrigerator and lifted the whole unit out of the frig.

I then removed the plastic cover on the front of the ice maker, pressed on the tab to remove the wiring harness from the old ice maker, and installed it on the new ice maker. I then removed the metal arm from the old ice maker and installed it on the new unit as well. The last part that I moved from the old ice maker to the new one was the lower bracket, as the bracket on the new ice maker was bent during shipping.

Once those parts were swapped, I put the plastic cover on the new ice maker, plugged the wiring harness back into the side of the frig, routed the fill tube into the back on the ice maker assembly, and set the unit back on the two upper screws. I then put the screw back in the lower bracket, tightened the two upper screws, and then put the ice bin back in and turned the water back on. After a couple of hours, I threw out the first couple of batches of ice and it is now working as it had in the past.

I also noticed, when looking at the old ice maker, that the black plastic coating was coming off the ice cube tray, so it was a good time to be replacing it anyway. Overall, a very easy job (I was prepared for swearing, parts being slightly off, etc.) and it would have been a shame to have paid someone to do it.

While this was merely a replacment part that took 2 minutes to reinstall, I was VERY impressed in that I received the part the day after ordering. Many thanks for your speedy delivery!

Well first of all the grill was not only missing a clip on the rleft side of the fridge, but after recieving the new one I studied teh one still on and noticed that the plastic stand off that holds it was busted off. So I got the handy dandy junk screw box out and found a screw that fit tightly inside the plastic standoff center and screwed the cip to the grill that way.

The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Removed ice container, replaced end cap that holds Auger shaft that connects to shaft that turns the Auger. End cap plastic nubs wear where it makes contact to the turning stub. Removing a few screws on the front of ice container allows the Auger shaft to slide forward and away from the end cap. Maneuver end cap from shaft, replace using same maneuver and that is it.
Pretty easy, even for a novice like me. A $6.00 end cap verses the whole assembly at around $70.00
I'm pleased.......

I removed the panel to gain access to the condenser and found it to be a solid block of ice. I ordered the 2 parts, I suspected and they arrived in 3 days. I replaced the parts and let it run for 48 hours. All is well and the frige gets colder than before.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

The repair was simple. Just like the video

Followed video and used vaseline to lube as suggested by other review.

The defrost circut stopped working which caused the coils to frost over stopping the blower and freezing the water line. Take everything out of the freezer, remove lower back pannel held in by around 8 screws inside the freezer. The thermostat was attached to the upper right coil. It clips on to the coil. Wires attach to the fan and defrost heater. A pair of wires runs out through a hole. These wires are to measure thermostat. It will read 0 ohms when frozen. Rremove and replace the thermostat. The defrost heater should read around 25 ohms. Remove the bottom grill. It pops off. The box in the middle houses the defrost timer. Remove the 2 screws holding the box to the chasis and then remove the defrost timer screws... Before buttoning everythigng up, plug the fridge in to the power and wait for about an hour. The fan in the freezer just above the coils should be running and circulating cool air through the fridge and freezer. Depending on how long your freezer was unplugged, the water should be thawed enough to dispense water again.

First I removed the two screws that hold the timer cover in blace, then I removed the the two screws that hold the timer onto the cover. I was then able to unplug the timer, and reverced the process to re-assemble the timer. Unfortunately.....replacing the timer, did not solve the problem. My refridgerator still freezes up every other day or so. It will eventually thaw, and work for a few days, but then freezes up again.