10650343011 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

That was due to the evaporator blocked by the ice. Check found the defrost timer is okay. The next thing I can think of is to replace the Electronic Control Board which is installed in the fridge side top compartment. Ply open the face cover, remove the nut and screw that secure the EC Board. Pull out the cable, mount the new card and re-connect. So simple. It is back in order.

Took the old one out and put the new one in.

This company is WONDERFUL! I ordered the wrong drawer the first time, but their return process was a snap and the correct drawer arrived the next day. It's great to know that there is someone out there with just about every part you'll need for about any appliance that is truly customer friendly.

After diagnosing two problems (Hot door jambs between the fridge and freezer, as well as excessive leaking in the freezer) I ordered the parts online. I received a new condenser fan kit and a new water inlet valve. Both were easy to replace. The hardest part was getting the old condenser fan out of the fridge, but I took off the fan blade first, and pulled that out, then I was able to get the fan motor out. The water inlet valve was pretty easy as well, just make sure that you shut the water off completely. I made the mistake of only turning it a quarter turn at the valve on the wall when I should have made a half turn on the valve. Slight water mess in the kitchen, but if that's the worst thing that happened on this repair, then I'm OK with that. Both were easy to replace and the cost saved of not having to call a repairman was the extra added bonus.

Watched the website repair & adjustment video, ordered the part which was exactly like the one currently in the fridge. Took only 10 min. to install. Then, 2 hours later we had ice! And still have ice on a consitent basis. Easy fix, life's good!

Same as everybody else on this post. Real easy. Actually, I just wish I would have done it sooner.

First I unplugged the unit, then I popped off the cover to the icemaker electronics. Removed 4 screws, pulled out the broken electronic panel, and replaced with the new one. Returned the screws and cover. The next moring the ice bin was full.

This must have saved me $300, and the inconvernience of waiting around for the repair man. He would have made two trips since he would never have had this part with him.

removed 3 screws and power wire clip, removed old ice maker, reinstalled new ice make by snaping in power wire clip and the 3 screws that hold ice maker, reinstalled wire bracket/arm that stops ice maker once tray is full of ice. done

remove shelves in freezer compartment incl.holders(slide up to remove)
Remove lamp/shield
Remove panel (six phillips screws)
disconnect motor
pull off fan blade
squeeze bracket holding motor to remove
remove motor.
Re-assemble (in reverse)

Resistance on solenoid for water to ice maker measured low (5 ohms). I assumed the coil insulation had degraded because there was almost a short with such low resistance. Replaced the water inlet valve kit and ice maker filled with water and everything worked great. I had to cut the ends of the hoses because my model use compression fittings and this new valve kit used the push on fittings. No leaks no problems. The cables plugged in the opposite direction from the old valve kit, so I had to re-route the cable a little and create slack by removing from 1 cable clamp.

Removed front plastic grill and screws holding the filter in place. Also removed lower back cardboard panel to access water lines. Video on this website told me how to remove water lines from filter, you must depress a collar around the water line while pulling out the water line. Then install the new Water Filter Housing and water lines. The only problems I had was the tight space to work in and one of the water lines was leaking, but pushing the water line in further solved the problem.

Replaced the entire unit (fan and motor). Would have rated this repair as "Really Easy", but found it a little difficult because of large hands.

Removed catch tray and then removed two screws that are underneath. I left the control panel hanging from its wires, then removed the two screws from the control bracket.
A word of caution before next step: You need to remove the two micro switches on the left and right. While trying to remove one, it split apart and the pieces fell out. I was able to put it back together and it worked fine. So be careful with the micro switches.
Continue tranferring wires and switches to the new bracket and reassemble in the opposite order.
An easy repair.

remove the front cover. everything else is a quick disconnect type of connection. Nothing to it! I would remove the cover and check these connections anytime the dispenser does not work. Look for broken or disconnected switches. This reapir took me a couple of minutes whereas the repair guy wanted almost 200 bucks to do this job. Parts ran around 30 with shipping.

New part slipped right into the studs and fit perfectly