10651789410 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

1. Removed 2 screws on top hing.
2. Easily lifted door and place on table.
3. Removed set screw for door cam.
4. Removed stop bracket.
5. Reversed steps 4 thru 1.

When tightening top 2 screws, make sure door gap is consistent and top of frig door aligns with the top of the freezer door.

NOTE: The lady at PartSelect who helped me with my order was great. Took the time to verify my parts. Prior to this I had bought the part from a nearby appliance parts store. They sold me the wrong part, even though I showed them a picture of my model number plate b4 ordering. In the future, I will always go to PartSelect for my appliance part purchases.

I thought I ordered a new drawer to replace the one that was missing. Apparently I only ordered the plastic part of the drawer, not the drawer ASSEMBLY, which required me to also order 2 plastic wheels, 2 wheel axels and a handle trim piece. The sum of all the pieces needed to replace my drawer assembly was going to be $250. That's ridiculous. SO I decided to send the plastic drawer back -- which cost me $70 in shipping. I will not be purchasing anything from PartSelect again.

Freezer worked great, refrigerator stopped getting cold and lots of ice formed around the condenser on the bottom of the refrigerator.
First I had a serious ice issue, ice build up around the bottom of the refrigerator and all through the cold air vents, condenser and cooling fan. I unplugged of the fridg and let defrost over night. I also took all the cold air vents out and cleaned them.
Then I followed the switch install video very simple switch install. Now the Refrigerator works Great nice and cold.

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

I changed the bulb but it still didn’t work. I ordered a bulb holder and replaced it and it works properly now. It was an easy repair, remove the bulb, gently pry the bulb holder out with a screwdriver and snap the new one in.

It was useful that under the description of the part in the catalog, it showed that this part was often used to repair this issue. The service was great and the delivery was fast.

Simply cut the water tube on both sides of connector and push in the new one.

Took lower back board off, took part off to expose it so I could see where it was leaking, got part number, ordered it.
Shut off water to frig at wall shut off, unhooked both hoses and plug, hooked new part up, turned water back on. Watched couple days to make sure it wasn't leaking. Vacuumed out back good, which I was amazed didn't really need it, hooked part back in place, replaced back with screws.

I used the computer to enter the make and model of the refrigerator with the icemaker unit. We looked at the diagram to identify the name of the part and then ordered it. It was sent out the next day! We received it and installed it and it works perfect!

I took out the old socket by moving a clip. Reattached the electrical wires, clicked in the socket and that was it.

First I had to figure out how to get the old unit out so I could work on it. The three screws that others wrote about were the ones that hold the motor in place. There are 3 screws holding the ice maker in the frame, along with one screw covering the electrical connection. The electrical connection was difficult to unplug because the locking tab was on the back side of the connection and with no room to work in the freezer it didn't become apparent until several frustrating minutes went by. There were no instructions provided, the picture on the ordering page showed the complete ice maker, and for $80 you get a printed circuit board with a small round item which must be the motor/timer control. The two plastic parts for moving the ice from the ice maker were included but not replaced because I didn't notice them until I had finished replacing the ice maker back in the freezer and wasn't going to start over again.
Once installed, there wasn't any noise, even of water flowing like the old one, could not tell if the unit was working or not. In the morning there was new ice in the bin indicating the repair had been successful. This is like anything else, if you have done it before it is a 5 minuter job but when you have to look at it and try to figure it out it takes a bit longer. All in all, it was simple enough, I was expecting a complete ice maker unit like was in the picture when ordered but only the motor module was actually needed.
We have another refrigerator/freezer that has an icemaker that is over 20 years old and has never been repaired, it is a Sears model though, probably made by Whirlpool or someone else.

After pulling the fridge out and removing the dust cover over the lower portion in back of the fridge, I could see water dripping from the inlet valve between the water main to the icemaker and the water dispenser in the door.
1. Unplug the fridge
2. Place a towel under the fridge to absorb any over flow
3. Turn off the water supply to the fridge - this is usually at a tap valve on the cold water line. trace the line from the back of the fridge to find the connection point. In the unlikely event there is not valve at the tap valve or if it is inaccessible, turn off the main water supply. If you have to turn off the main supply turn on a faucet somewhere in the house to bleed the pressure from the line.
4. If the valve is tied to the frame or line , undo the tie or cut the zip tie (in my case)
5. Unplug each electric connector from the old valve to the new one.
6. The water connections are all quick connect so release the intake line by pressing down on the white ring and removing the tube. Press the tube into the new valve.
7. Repeat with each line going to the refrigerator making sure to plug each tube into the same outlet you pulled it from
8. In each case to minimize water coming out of the tube, hold your finger over the end while transferring to the new valve.
9. Verify that all tubing ends are FULLY pressed to the valve
10. Turn the water back on slowly and check for leaks. if some are seen turn water back off and repeat steps 6 thru 9.
11. Plug fridge in
12. Run water from the door faucet to bleed any air out
13. Clean up any spillage
14. Replace dust cover (if present) and replace refrigerator in place
Piece of cake

The Video on U tube was helpful. I have a side by side model and it was difficult to work in such tight quarters to attach the new part . I found that by removing the cable assembly it was much easier to attach (cut and crimp) the new part on the outside , then reinsert the assembly. The new part resolved my problem. Don't panic when you try and remove the cable assembly. Hope this is helpful.