25361542014 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the back panel ,cardboard-three screws,pushed the old fan blade off the motor and pushed the new fan on.Extremely easy.

thanks to all of the people who had the same problems I was able to make a quick fix on my fridge. I pulled the back cover off and found the compressor not kicking on so I replaced the start cap. and im back in bussiness.

Snapped new door rack into place.

This repair on this model is super easy because the shroud for the fan is not really attached except for the bottom so I was able to gently bend it to give em enough space to pull the broken fan off and put the new one on.

No tools were required to install

Snapped right in place, no problems at all.

I just put them right on. Took about a minute to figure on the right way to put the racks on (push them down from the top, until they snap into place), and it was done in less than five minutes. I was worried that this wouldn't work - I couldn't find the exact item # to replace the racks that had been on there. But it turns out that they are pretty interchangeable - the sub racks that the website suggested worked perfectly for me.

The new part fit perfectly! I just snapped it on! Thanks so much Partselect! You processed my order quickly, and I had it in my hands in a few days. What a relief to have this fixed! Thanks again.

My husband watched the video on your website and found it very easy to do the repair. The repair company that diagnosed the problem wanted $210 to do it. The part I ordered was under $20, and after he installed it the refrigerator has been working great. We would highly recommend your site to anyone who needs to fix anything!

took off cardboard removed two screws holding fan housing. Removed new fan and housing from box and mounted new fan to new housing (two screws). Installed new fan and housing. reinstalled cardboard and plunged in power cord. Perfect fit.

Had my 3 year old remove the 4 screws to holds the carboard in place. Pryde the old fan blade off with a screwdriver. slid the new fan blade on to the shaft then my 3 year old put the screws back in.

remove food, then the shelf, then use a hot air gun to defrost and loosen the back panel, then remove the panel, then defrost the coil and thermostat area. using wire tools, replaced the defrost thermostat,and re-assembled freezwr and test

I hesitate to say anything since I did exactly what their video told me to do, and it fixed the problem. Couldn't be happier. Was positive I was looking at 1000$ for a new fridge. Love being able to fix it by installing 15$ part myself. Thanks guys.

The freezer was still making ice, but the fridge portion was barely cooler than room temp. I came to the website and saw that the defrost thermostat cured this problem over half the time. I was quite dubious because I don't see how that would affect the non-freezer part of the compartment, but since it was a cheap and easy-looking repair, I figured what the heck, lets see if that's it. Sure enough, it's like new again. I still don't understand it, but I'll take it. The repair itself is simple, just cutting out the old switch and splicing in the new. Two wires, and clip it to the copper tubing where the old one was. The switch is accessed easily after taking out four screws in the back of the freezer compartment. The only hard part was removing the ice-maker, and that's just because the two screws that hold it in are a little hard to get a good grip on. Alas, you have to get the ice-maker out to pull out the back panel, so there's nothing for it but to wheedle those screws out.

My unit was not defrosting. Defrost heater was not functioning. Defrost heater tested good with a meter. Thermostat (cold) tested bad with a meter. Defrost timer was working properly. I replaced the thermostat but I had to buy red crimp connectors because the blue ones that came with the thermostat are designed for wire bigger than 18 AWG wire. The thermostat leads as well as the wire in my unit were 18 AWG. The crimp was not tight enough for my liking with the blue butt connectors. I also purchased smaller heat shrink tubing. After replacement, the defrost heater started working. I could see it glowing. Unfortunately immediately after getting the heater working the contacts in the defrost timer arced and stuck together thus preventing the timer from exiting defrost mode. The heater went off at this point indicating that the thermostat was now working. I then purchased and replaced the defrost timer and now the fridge is functioning properly. I noticed both replacement parts, even though I looked up my fridge model, were different part numbers than the originals. I'm guessing the new parts are improved? I also noticed the timer was an 8/30 rather than a 10/30 like the original. The fridge is working better than when it was new so evidently defrosting every 8 as opposed to every 10 hours is better for my unit.

Long story short:

Buy the correct crimp/butt connectors before beginning replacement of the thermostat and proactively replace the defrost timer since it is rather inexpensive.