3639450417 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed two screws at the top of the door, lifted the door off. I got lucky: the broken cam was the one on the door (easy to remove), not the one on the body of the refrigerator (tough to remove).
There is a shim which was also broken - no way to know that ahead of time. I bent a 5/8" lock washer flat and it served acceptably as a shim.
It would be helpful if PartSelect.com could include with its listing of the cam, the fact that (1) the shim will probably be needed, and (2) there's a very good chance that you'll need TWO of the cams as well.

Removed screws holding top door hinge. Lifted the door off bottom hinge. Unscrewed cam from bottom of door. Drilled out rivet holding the second cam in the bottom hinge. Replaced both cams using a flat headed bolt to hold the bottom cam. Dropped door into bottom hinge and replaced top hinge screws. Job done.

Make sure you buy two cams and have a bolt to replace the bottom rivet.

Not a difficult job as long as you have a drill !!!

The parts were here the next day. After removing the old ice maker it was a simple installation using the adapter cord furnished. It took about 15 minutes. You have to work with the cord some to get it to fit behind the ice maker, but it does fit. The ice maker started up immediately & works great.

I removed the ice tub. Removed the screw on the left side that holds closed the section where the icemaker plug is connected. Disconnected the plug. Then removed the bottom right screw. I was then able to remove the Icemaker by unhooking it from the bcak freeze wall. I disconnected the icemaker from the fan gaurd. Removed the icemaker cover. unscrewed the 3 icemaker screws and opened up the chamber. removed the old Ejector Blade Drive Cam by removing the outer srew that hold the gear to the icemaker. changed the cam with the new one and reassembled everything.

1. I removed the top door hinge.
2. I removed the door and laid it flat.
3. I replaced the cam attached to the bottom of the door. This was very easy.
4. I removed the bottom door hinge and had to remove the brad that held the second cam. This went well as I was able to saw it with a hacksaw.
5. Replaced the second cam with a bolt and nut.
6. Replaced the door and top hinge.
7. Remember to order two cams when you do this repair.

A friend had no problem getting the new ice maker in. But then the problems started. The ice maker works great. But when the water fills the ice maker it squirts water onto the side of the freezer and ice sickles form. So we watched and decided the hole was too large so used a piece of plastic. That helped to cover the hole. But some water is still entering the freezer and not all going to the ice maker. The only other thing we can think to try is to use epoxy to try to close that place. A simple job has turned into a big headache. I wish they made the ice maker like the original one.

I Supported the door with wood blocks. Then used a socket wrench to remove both parts of the lower hinge. I had purchased 2 of these plastic closers as recommended. One of them must be cut off with a Dremel Tool or small grinder. A small bolt and nut replaces the rivet that was cut off. Reinstall it just as it was removed. Job complete.
Parts were delivered on time, web site instructions were excellent. I highly recommend PartSelect.com

The old plastic door closer cam on bottom of the the door had broken. What was left of it was held on by a hex head screw. There was also a fiber spacer under the cam that was broken. I made a new one out of a piece of aluminum, but cardboard probably would have worked.

Forgot to mention you have to take the door off first--loosen the two screws on the top hinge and lift the door out of the bottom hinge.

I found the self-closing sometimes won't work well until there is some weight in the door.

I took the top over off the pivet bracket and used a nut driver to remove the screws on the pivet. Lifted the door off and put on some saw horsess. I revoved the pieces of the old cam on the door by taking out the screw and put the new cam back.
I then drilled out the rivet on the bracket on the door and removed the broken cam. replaced it with the new one and used a screw and nut to replace the rivet. Put the door back and works great now.

completely removed door, then replaced worn-out cam on bottom of door-simple enough; then removed hinge from bottom of refrigerator; removing old cam required drilling out the rivet that fastened cam to hinge; secured new cam to hinge with small machine screw and nut. This procedure is relatively easy but does require minor mechanical ability and having a small drill and bit set. However, replacing the two cams totally fixed the problem.

Followed previous poster's steps. Replacement of door closing cams took 35 minutes. Make sure you buy 2 cams for each door.

i did every thing according to instructionwhich was simple but it did not cover how to use the extension electrical plug-in and where to put the extra cord so the tray would go back in

i'm glad I read this forum before ordering the part because you need two of the door cams. They're sandwiched together on the lower hinge.

I removed the top door hinge, lifted the door off from the lower hinge and layed it on the counter.

I then removed the lower hinge using a nut driver.
I had to grind the rivot head off that holds the door cam onto the hinge and use a nut & bolt to replace
the rivot.

First called GE parts and they sent me the wrong one. PartsSelect sent me the correct part the FIRST time and was very helpful.

I followed the directions on the computer and everything went just as the video said it would. This was one of the easiest repairs I have ever done. Usually, it does not go as planned.