25360137990 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The BIG problem was getting the old drip pan off. The bolt on top of the compressor was too long to allow the removal of the old drip pan. I removed the old drip pan by cutting most of it away with tin shears then cutting the remaining part of the pan around the bolt with a hack saw (taking care not to damage freon lines and raising the pan above the threads of the bolt so as not to damage the threads). I still had to cut half the bolt away with a hack saw by replacing the nut and cutting a third of the bolt away (above the nut), so the new pan would fit. Putting the new pan on was a breeze after that. It may be easier to just cut the bolt off altogether on top of the compressor and use the wire clips per the instructions supplied with the kit to install the new one.

The site offers a video for this part which worked perfectly. In addition to replacing the part, since the cardboard panel was off, we also cleaned all the dust off of the coils which someone recommended to do annually.

Simple switch repair: Unplug fridge, pull down to remove switch assembly, slip contacts off. Reverse with replacement switch. HOWEVER, check first to see if the bulb filament might be broken, as this could cause the same symptom. OR in my case, the light socket connection was the culprit. Check that too before ordering a replacement switch.

1. turn off the refrigerator using the inside temp dial
2. take all food out of the refrigerator door
3. pull up the gasket along the door frame and loosen all
the screws starting with the bottom and the sides
4. loosen the screws underneath the gasket on the top of
the door (be ready to lower the door frame when you
loosen the last screw!)
5. pull the old gasket off the door frame
6. put the door frame on the floor insulation side up
7. lay the new gasket out on the floor and use a blow
dryer to heat the new gasket to make it flexible
8. put the new gasket on the frame by fitting the crease
of the gasket over the edge of the frame making sure
that the magnet side of the new gasket is facing the
refrigerator when the frame is re-attached
9. apply RTV Silicone sealant along the entire lip of the
gasket (on the insulation side of the frame) and press
the gasket to the frame to form a bond ( I got a tube
of RTV silicone at Wal-Mart in the automotive dept. near
the motor oils)
10. wait 5-10 minutes to let the silicone bond to the frame
11. lift the frame up and re-attach to the door starting
with the top middle screw first, the side middle screws
next, the bottom middle screw last (you may want to get
a second person to help hold the frame while you are
attaching these initial screws)
12. go back and re-attach all remaining screws
13. close the refrigerator door and check for a good seal
all along the gasket
14. your done!

Note: you may want to close the refrigerator door and block
it with a chair to keep in some cold air after you
remove the frame to install the new gasket

removed doors and took out screws from hinge and replaced hinge. works great, all costs under $20, applinance store said no parts available only wanted to sell a new appliance, no wonder they are all losing bussiness when they have custmor service like this!

I pulled out the old pieces and poped what I couldn't into the foam insulation behind the support. Then I placed the new piece in the hole and popped the plastic pin to seat the support. bang. the only problem I had was knowing if it was the right part by the picture. The little pin that had to be pushed through kinda threw me.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

followed documentation from Frigidaire website.

unscrew the hangers and replaced with the new ones. The parts were delivered in 24 hrs..amazing!

I took the door shelf and snapped on the bracket and slid it into place. The inside door bin just slid into place. It took me longer to do a search and find the parts than it did to replace them.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wiring harness plug, replaced the old timer with the new one, re-connected the wiring harness and reinstalled the mount in position. Hardest thing about it was lying on the floor.

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.

From discussions with friends, I determined the problem might be easy to fix. The fridge made a lot of noise, but the compressor DID come on, and inside the freezer was cold, but the main fridge was warming.

After unplugging the fridge, I removed the fan assembly in the freezer (there were about 4 nuts and a couple of plugs to uncouple.

I could see right away the fan blades has broken off, but the motor looked good. The new new fan pushed easily onto the shift and fit perfectly in the housing.

I reinstalled the fan assembly, plugged in the fridge, and right away heard the new fan come on - very quietly. What was a roar became a whisper and the fridge was down to 38 degrees with a few hours.

First, I removed the shelf holding the meat drawer . Next, I used a screwdriver to remove the 4 screws that held the old rails to the shelf. Finally, I positioned the new rails and reinserted the screws into the holes and tightened. Less than 10 minutes and super easy!