36368595896 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Herbert from POCONO LAKE, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR60X10168, WR02X10098
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
the condenser fan motor was intermittently verynoisy. obvious sign of a (possibly imminent) failure
1 unplug the appliance
2. remove the rear cardboard cover, giving access to the compressor and condenser area
3. remove the two (condenser motor bracket) mounting screws, then with the motor assembly in your hand remove the the fan blade which is friction mounted to the motor shaft( note the exact position of the fan blade on the motor shaft so you can replace it in the same position when you reassemble), remove the two wires connected to the motor. Also remove the rubber resilient mounting grommets on the motor mount frame as these can harden with age and cause excessive vibration.
4 install the new motor into the mounting frame with the new grommets
5 reconnect the two wires to the new motor (non polarized)
6 secure the mounting frame (with the installed new motor) back in place
7 slide the fan blade onto the new motor shaft
8 screw the rear access panel back in place
plug in the refrigerator. the next time the compressor and condenser fan cycle on, verify operation of the new condenser fan motor
2. remove the rear cardboard cover, giving access to the compressor and condenser area
3. remove the two (condenser motor bracket) mounting screws, then with the motor assembly in your hand remove the the fan blade which is friction mounted to the motor shaft( note the exact position of the fan blade on the motor shaft so you can replace it in the same position when you reassemble), remove the two wires connected to the motor. Also remove the rubber resilient mounting grommets on the motor mount frame as these can harden with age and cause excessive vibration.
4 install the new motor into the mounting frame with the new grommets
5 reconnect the two wires to the new motor (non polarized)
6 secure the mounting frame (with the installed new motor) back in place
7 slide the fan blade onto the new motor shaft
8 screw the rear access panel back in place
plug in the refrigerator. the next time the compressor and condenser fan cycle on, verify operation of the new condenser fan motor
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Left drawer slide broken replaced both right and left
Removed drawers and glass shelf. Removed screws that hold old slide rails in place. Installed new rails and re-installed cover for vents. Placed assembly back in and installed drawers.
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- Customer:
- THOMAS from MEBANE, NC
- Parts Used:
- WR60X10168
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Noisy Fan Motor
Simple. Rolled the refrigerator out , unplugged the 120 volts AC outlet.(1) Unplugged the wiring from the cabinet to the fan (white (three pin connector)). (2) Removed the two 5/16 inch screws holding the rear motor bracket . (3) Removed the fan blade from the motor shaft by applying slight pressure, pulling if off the old motor shaft. (4) removed the rubber isolator from the frame and from the rear of the old motor. (5) placed the rubber isolators back on the motor and frame. (6) Pushed the new motor back into the frame and re-installed the fan assembly. (7) remounted the fan with the rear support and the two 5/16 inch screws. Reconnected the three wire connector. Just checked the fan blade assembly to make sure they were not hitting the fan shroud. Fan blades should sit just partially inside the shroud to make sure it produces maximum airflow.
(8) Reconnected the 120 volt AC and waited for the compressor to cycle back on... Nice quite fan... Thanks
(8) Reconnected the 120 volt AC and waited for the compressor to cycle back on... Nice quite fan... Thanks
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- Customer:
- Roscoe G from ROCHESTER, NY
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Light burnt out.
Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.
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- Customer:
- Mark from Keyport, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WR17X2769
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
My wife forced the fruit drawer in and snapped the slide rail.
I pulled out the shelf and removed the 2 screws holding the broken side rail to the shelf frame. I then screwed the new rail in and set the shelf back in.
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broken slide rails
Basically I removed 4 screws holding the rails together, did a little cleaning of the existing parts that I would re-use and screwed the 4 screws back in and put it back into the fridge. Piece of cake. If I hadn't cleaned up the old parts it would have taken me 5 minutes.
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- Customer:
- Brad from SPRING MILLS, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR02X10098
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
Noisy
I didn’t do the repair because I ordered two grommets. When they arrived, one of the packages was empty! Instead of just sending me another one, they refunded the part so I still need one. By the way, I was not refunded half the shipping either which was more than the part itself.
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from Rowe, VA
- Parts Used:
- WR2X9391
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
bulb out
I ordered the part, within two days we had received it. My husband put the part in and I really don't know what he used doing so. All I know is that the light works now and we don't have to use the flashlight. Thanks a lot.
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- Customer:
- Sumlorq from Cleveland, OH
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
light switch freezer door
put the gratefruit knife behind the old switch pooped it out pluged the new one in piece of cake 5min.even vacumed the dust off the coil
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- Customer:
- Omri and Diklah from Brooklyn, NY
- Parts Used:
- WR2X8700
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
plastic bracket that holds the shelf to the door was broken.
Simply remove the shelf, remove broken bracket easily, wash the parts, attach the new bracket and place the shelf back in place. No tools.
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- Customer:
- James from Glendale Heights, IL
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Light would stay on when door closed
Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.
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- Customer:
- Deborah from BRADLEYVILLE, MO
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Broken light switch
This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!
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original parts broken (poor design)
Unscrewed four screws, two on each part, and replaced broken parts, reinserting screws. This is a no-brainer repair.
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- Customer:
- Anna from Weatherly, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR17X2769
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
I found a broken slide rail after replacing a center slide rail.
I followed the directions on the site for the center slide replacement. I had actually called a local store and had him order the first part. It took several days and then I started searching online and found this site.Then I ordered the second part on line and to my surprise it arrived the next day. I was fortunate enough to have lived only about 70 miles from the distributer.Following the directions I found here is how I attempted the initial repair. With the vegetable bins out fo the bottom, I removed the plate covering the front frame by gently prying it off. Then I removed the two screws to losen the bar and lifted out the glass shelf. I didn't have much difficulty removing the frame since the front piece support for the slide rail that fit into the frame was already broken. I also had to loosen the screws on the back rail. I removed the entire frame and then replaced the side rail reinserting it into the end caps. I replaced the back screws and then the front ones .I replaced the glass shelf and then the cover cap for the shelf.
The only problem I encountered was that I couldn't seem to get the back screws really tight and I don't know why.
The only problem I encountered was that I couldn't seem to get the back screws really tight and I don't know why.
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- Customer:
- Edward from E LONGMEADOW, MA
- Parts Used:
- WD2X5166
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
water leaking from under dishwasher
Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.
Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.
A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.
Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.
A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.
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