1069542910 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

The wiring harness was a straightfoward plug in replacement after depressing the securing tabs, and did provide power to the icemaker. However, the icemaker would continually cycle, with the mold heater on at all times. I suspect this is what caused the thermal fuse to blow in the first place. Rather than spend more time replacing individual components, I eneded up replacing the full ice maker assy. The new ice maker works properly.

The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold.
Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out.
Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold.
Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold.
Attach the new mold on to the control module.
WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there.
Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.

Removed the two screws that hold flaping door. Removed the single screw that covers the connecting wires. Disconnected the wiring plug. I wiggled out the ice maker. Took off the motor cover. Swapped out one motor for the other. Reinstalled the icemaker in the resverse order of removal. Note the wiring plug in the freeze is very from. It makine s the reconnection differcult.

Followed Door Removal instructions by removing the Top Screws from the Cabinet. Lifted Door OFF the Metal Hinge. Unscrewed both Lower and Upper Cams from the Hinge and Door. Replaced with new after coating with Vasoline. Lifted Door back in place with help from Wife. Only problem was guiding the Door back onto the Hinge. Works fine. Two year old Frig. This is a design problem, as the cams should last longer than 22 months.

We have a side-by-side and the tutorial was different than what we have. Had trouble getting cover off, but finally repaired and WE HAVE ICE! Also took longer than expected.
Saved a lot!

I replaced the dual outlet valve and deiced the filler tube going to the ice maker. I removed the filler tube and ran hot water on it. I believe the old filler valve was leaking letting water slowly into the filler tube where it eventually froze solid.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Followed the video on parts page. I was worried I would brake the cover but learned from the video the right way to remove the front plate. I found the video very informing. Thank you for saving me a service call and the part cost was minimal compared to a new refrigerator .

The nozzle of the water dispenser broke. I ordered the part which arrived the next day. I did not use the white line, only the black. I turned the water off, then I removed the screw under the broken nozzle and cut off it off from the line. I took a new screw and cut off the top with pliers, then twisted half of a screw in the old line and inserted the other half in the new line and pulled the line from the bottom corner of the refrigerator and connected it to the white line under the grid. Screwed the new nozzle back to the lever, replaced the grid and turned water on.

The new thermostat assembly installed quite easily, just a couple of screws, but the thermostat probe however was kind of a pain in the rear. The probe is about 3 feet long and you have to remove a plastic sleeve from the old part and re-install on the new probe, it fits very tight and takes some time to do. Overall it was a very easy fix.

took the auger off and baffle replaced the baffle put every thing back together installed back to the freezer tried it out it dont work have to tear into the the motor which works the auger to see if anything else is broke.

just snapped it on,

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

remove decorattive trim around ice and whater dispenser area, Remeved 2 hex nuts holing ice dispenser are in place, one nut has a spring attatched to help the arm go back into position once the arm has been depressed. removed and replaced new arm, works good as new.

I removed the drawer and the shelf. I looked at the support on the other side to figure out how to insert the new one. Due to the shape of the "hook" part of the support, and the hole it needed to go into, I figured out which way I needed to insert it to be able to twist it so it would stay in place. From another online hint, and from talking to a repairman at a local shop (who had ordered me the wrong part) I knew I needed to twist it after inserting it. I used a pair of pliers to twist it counterclockwise, about a 3/4 turn. I put the shelf in and re-installed the drawer.