1068482480 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Went online with the model number, the part was very easy to find, diagrams helped me to have confidence in the choice. Parts came in two days, tore them open and used a screw driver to replace the broken shelf brackets, replaced shelves, I am a happy camper!!

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

only the front right stud was broken with very little left attached to hold and remove. After a long twist and pull , got it out and placed the new one....

Still recommend Part Select..RAUL, MIAMI FL

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

I removed 7 screws hold the heavy cardboard cover on the rear of the fridge. The dificult part was taking the screws that hold the 3 fan motor braces on the fan out. After that it was a matter of making the wire conections and putting it back in. I did not have enough room to laydown to do the work, If i had it would have been a lot easier to see the screws that had to be removed. All in all an easy job, and the part was a perfect fit.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Very easy. Left the front of the refrigerator so it is approx. 4 inches of the floor. (used a two by four. Removed the screws (one for each roller). Removed the rollers and replaced with new rollers. Reinstalled the screws with secures the rollers to the refrigerator. Done

Followed intructions.

Simply took broken pieces of old stud out and replaced with the new ones. Used pliers to adjust them. Replace a freezer stud and a fridge stud.

Removed cover change mounting bracket on fan put it back in works great

I simply slid off the broken supports, and slid the new ones on.