10648062890 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Followed Door Removal instructions by removing the Top Screws from the Cabinet. Lifted Door OFF the Metal Hinge. Unscrewed both Lower and Upper Cams from the Hinge and Door. Replaced with new after coating with Vasoline. Lifted Door back in place with help from Wife. Only problem was guiding the Door back onto the Hinge. Works fine. Two year old Frig. This is a design problem, as the cams should last longer than 22 months.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

The new thermostat assembly installed quite easily, just a couple of screws, but the thermostat probe however was kind of a pain in the rear. The probe is about 3 feet long and you have to remove a plastic sleeve from the old part and re-install on the new probe, it fits very tight and takes some time to do. Overall it was a very easy fix.

Went on line ,ordered part on Friday afternoon ,Fedex was at my house Saturday Morning,,THIS SERVICE IS GREAT ,,THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR BEING SO FAST

left the shelf/vevetable in place. used pliers or adjustable wrench to remove broken peice. a standard adjustable wrench will remove this peice, it has flat surfaces to grab. make a 1/4 turn going upward. use a flat tip screwdriver to remove old part. discard old pard. insert new part into shelf support hole flush or fully into the hole. While applying a slight amount of force to keep part flush against the wall make a 1/4 bownward part is self locking. I think you only get one chance so take it easy.

Removed the top plastic hinge cover, remove (2) bolts from top hinge. Lifted door up and off of lower hinge, removed both halves of door cam, replaced cam halves and re-installed door. Super easy and effective. Door now opens and closes (stays closed) properly.

where the wires crossed at the start relay, 20 years of vibration allowed them to short out and burn out the start relay ..since i have 2 identical fridges i switched the run capacitor to determine it was'nt bad too...ordered a start relay wednesday nite and got it friday morning...cold fridge by noon...good service and the part was exactly the same as the original....

Unplug, then on the freezer side, remove the drawers, then remove the screws holding the sheet metal cover, remove the rails (for the drawer) that interfere with removing the sheet metal cover. pull the wires off the motor. There is a big plastic piece that holds a small plastic piece that holds the motor. Remove the plastic piece that holds the motor/fan (you might be able to swap the motor by removing the little plastic piece that holds the motor, or you can remove the bigger piece and then remove the small piece that holds the motor). Pull the fan blade off (to reuse), swap the motor. NOTE - the new motor wire terminals may be on the opposite side of the motor vs. the old motor - that is not a problem - there is plenty of room for the wires. After the motor is installed put the fan blade back on, reinstall the removed plastic pieces in the back of the refrigerator. Now, I'd suggest a quick test. Make sure the new motor works and the fan blows before you button it up. Once you know it works, power it off, and put the sheet metal cover back on, reinstall the basket brackets, put the baskets back in place, close the door, and turn it back on.

I followed the repair videos that were provided by partselect and installed a bi-metal defrost thermostat in the freezer and a thermostat assembly in the fridge. The installation was not hard and everything is now working as it should. Thanks

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

I FOLLOWED A U TUBE VIDEO. IT WAS ALMOST PERFECT FOR MY SIDE BY SIDE REFRIGERATOR.

Our spare 25+ year old Kitchenaid refrigerator (side-by-side model) refused to produce cold air. I could hear mechanical sounds and things "clicking", but the temps kept raising. This specific unit only had cooling coils in the freezer, and some ducts that route cold air into the fridge.

I emptied the refrigerator completely, removed the ice cube bin and shelves, and left it unplugged for two days with the doors open. Once everything was dry, I plugged the unit back in -- within 8-10 hours, the unit was cold again. Lights worked, and fans in the freezer and back of unit worked. However... once the compressor turned off, it never came back on. This told me that the root cause lies with components that control when to turn off/on the cold flowing into the coils.

I looked up my model on PartSelect website, and looked through their "likely to fail" list for my model. The defrost thermostat and defrost timer were at the top of the list, and symptoms made sense. Those two parts arrived within a week. The defrost timer was easy to install -- unplug old, plug in new. The defrost thermostat involved cutting existing wires, stripping a small section of sheathing, and attaching the wires to the new part with crimp caps and electrical tape. The electrical tape was there to cover the exposed area of the crimp cap and bundle the wires together. (I used 3M's "Super 33+".) Finally, reattach the harness to the socket, and attach the other plugs and grounding clamp.

After re-attaching the rest of the required components, I plugged the unit back in. After about 24 hours, it had gone through at least one cycle and was appropriately cold. After letting it churn for another couple days and watching it closely, I felt confident that the problem had been fixed.

** Side Notes **

Definitely use caution around the fins on the coil. For my unit, the harness plug is directly above the fins, and required some effort to safely remove while not slicing up my hands. Extra long screwdrivers and patience helps a lot. Put a wedge behind the wheels of the refrigerator so that it doesn't back away from you while you work. And, of course, do all this while it is unplugged.

** For the PartSelect Website Maintainers **

If possible, please provide some better guidance on where to place the lead coming off the defrost timer. The Youtube video was nice, but some clarity on which pole/spade to attach it to (and where to find that info, besides "consult your manual") would help many people.

After spending $250 on repair by calling appliance repair professional who changed relay in the fridge, the problem was not solved. I had to manually turn the switch off and on again to make sure my fridge would maintain its temperature. I read some similar problems on this web site, watched instalation video and decided to give it a try. Part came in very quick and it took me (female) 45 minutes to install the new part and refregirator worked like a champ. I would never call professional again until I try fixing the problem myself.

First, I removed the two thermostat knobs, then the snap-on plastic cover. Then, I removed the 4 screws holding the housing for the timer, thermostats, etc., and dropped it down enough to remove the timer and the wiring harness going into it. Installing the new one was the same process, in reverse. Quite simple!